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#16 Spider

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Posted 07 August 2026 - 07:33 AM

 

Assuming that the oil quantity in each of the quart containers is accurate, the result of adding exactly 5 quarts of oil, plus a filter, was that the oil level on the dipstick was short of the MAX marking by close to a 1/4".  Knowing that the amount of oil added was correct, I remarked the dipstick to reflect the correct minimum and maximum levels.  Regardless, the level was between the MIN/MAX marking, so much ado over nothing.

 

Hey Jerry !

 

The actual Oil Quantity / Level needed is a bit of a juggling act in these power units.

Looking at the engine, we need enough to charge and lubricate the engine Lube system + a sensible reserve + enough for cooling and as hot oil comes down out of the engine while running, give it enough time to dissipate some heat before being sent around again. Actual Power Outputs used obviously come in to play here and this can be where Oil Coolers can be useful, but all too often, they are fitted inappropriately, with higher power engines, driven using low and moderate power outputs.

The other part of the equation is the gearbox, here we also have heat to dissipate, but no forced Lube system, so we want the level to be about half or just under that, way up the geartrain. Once again, cooling comes in to play here too and having a level that's too high, will not only sap power, but also drive up the Oil Temps in a big way. Less is better.

On balance for just about any street driven Mini, I would suggest rather being too concerned with quantity, I'd suggest aiming for a level around 1/2" below the centre line of the geartrain when charged, but cold and not running.


While not the topic of this discussion, I'll just mention here the dilemma 'we' (as Mini and Moke owners) face in regards to Oil Grade and it's not as 'bad' as we may think.

Ideally for ambient temps in the 0 to 350C / 32 to 950F mark, considering the engine in isolation, a grade of 10W40 is quite adequate, going to a heavier grade only heats the engine more and degrades the oil quicker.

And here's where it might be surprising. Our geartrain was directly derived from the Austin A30 / A35 and flowed on to bigger / heavier vehicles, including the Morris Minor, including the Van and Pick-up versions. The recommended grade of Oil for these gearbox is also 10W40, not a 'normal' heavy traditional gearbox grade of 70 or 90 weight.

When we come to the differential in these RWD cars, from which the Mini one shares just about all parts with, an 80 - 90 weight is recommended. When I look at how the Diff Pins and Sun Gears wear in our Mini Gearboxes, it's clear to me that they are not an ideal design, while they are intended to be a splash / dip fed unit in how they are lubricated, they really need a pressure feed or even just squrters would help. I believe the shape of the Diff Centre and in particular, the small, poorly shaped windows in them causes the oil to centrifuge out of them, causing them to run largely dry. When I look at the Diff Pins, they appear to me to have worn from lack of any oil  So, while I've knocked lighter grade oils, a heavier weight would likely be worse.

 

I'll finish by saying that I've been running with a local Oil (available in the UK), Penrite HPR30 which is actually a 20W60. I do feel it's too heavy, but I use it because it's additives and detergents are better than anything else I've ever used, I have found it takes around 200 - 300 km of continuous running to get it up to temperature, I can feel it, it runs quieter, and there is a notable difference in power as well as reduced fuel consumption. If this company made a similar oil in a 10W40 (or even a 10W50), I'd swap to that in a heartbeat.
 

 

 



#17 Ethel

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Posted 07 August 2026 - 10:06 AM

Austin Rover (or whatever they were calling themselves that week) spent a silly amount of money putting that "+ " on the back of the A.

I've always understood their top priority was to increase the service interval: critical to fleet buyer bean counters. They specified a 10w40 for their rewarmed engine. I've always presumed that was to help the sales dept. with mpg bragging rights, but reading Spider's post I'm prepared to reconsider that they actually knew what they were doing. 

 

...some of that fortune was evidently spent on idler & laygear bearings, gear profiles etc which hopefully had the oil grade as a consideration too. 

 

Thinking about it, reduced friction = reduced wear = increased mpg... and mileage between oil changes.



#18 coopertaz

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Posted 07 August 2026 - 10:52 AM

The 'A' Dip Stick Tubes, Plastic or Steel, won't fit in to a stock 'A+' Bock. If you drilled the Block to fit one, it would sit about 1" too high.

 

While some may ask "why would you want to do that", something along these lines if what I've been considering doing for some time. I find when sitting at moderate or higher revs for extended periods, even with an O Ringed Dip Stick, I still get the small of Oil Stains around the Dip Stick, to which the sand 'glues' itself to. I've found with the 'A' Blocks that have the longer steel tube (there was 2 lengths in these) they don't do this.

try attaching a spring to the dipstick hoop and then to the block, did this when my engine had high crankcase pressure before i could afford to rebuild it 



#19 coopertaz

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Posted 07 August 2026 - 11:06 AM

often wondered this as sellers of shiny dipsticks, that you cannot read the level on (had one) listed them at shows as A or A+ styles never got around to measuring the two to compare though



#20 Spider

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Posted 07 August 2026 - 05:24 PM

Try attaching a spring to the dipstick

 

I have done that once !

 

 

often wondered this as sellers of shiny dipsticks, that you cannot read the level on (had one) listed them at shows as A or A+ styles never got around to measuring the two to compare though

 

I grind a flat on them between the marks and a wee bit more. It does help see new clean oil on them a tiny bit easier, but it's still not easy.
 



#21 nicklouse

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Posted 07 August 2026 - 06:01 PM

often wondered this as sellers of shiny dipsticks, that you cannot read the level on (had one) listed them at shows as A or A+ styles never got around to measuring the two to compare though

All the ones I have seen were the same but were put in different piles to save answering the same question.

i will see if I can find the photos I took a while back.



#22 Shooter63

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Posted 08 August 2026 - 08:51 AM

Austin Rover (or whatever they were calling themselves that week) spent a silly amount of money putting that "+ " on the back of the A.

I've always understood their top priority was to increase the service interval: critical to fleet buyer bean counters. They specified a 10w40 for their rewarmed engine. I've always presumed that was to help the sales dept. with mpg bragging rights, but reading Spider's post I'm prepared to reconsider that they actually knew what they were doing. 

 

...some of that fortune was evidently spent on idler & laygear bearings, gear profiles etc which hopefully had the oil grade as a consideration too. 

 

Thinking about it, reduced friction = reduced wear = increased mpg... and mileage between oil changes.

 

Nice piece, it always makes me smile when I read an online thread about oil, apart from the fact they tend to end up in some strange slanging match by people who are definitely not triboligists, the answer is staring at them in the owners handbook, while many deride BL/Rover they did employ some very clever people who tended to be restricted by finance. When we bought my Mrs mini it was one of those 1 owner full service history cars, always serviced by the book and always using the correct oils etc. At the time of the engine change the original mileage was in the 90's I lifted the head off, you could still see honing marks, I will admit the 1-2 change was getting a bit graunchy and the valve seals were rock hard, but not too bad really. Unlike the pre Plus days of 20w50 and gold/silver seal replacement units.

 

Shooter



#23 Ethel

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Posted 08 August 2026 - 09:12 AM

It seems to have gone the other way now. You'd have a hard time flogging oil, or antifreeze, if it didn't have the particular manufacturer's magic code of approval.

 

Would've been nice if the filter bypass light stayed connected though.



#24 68+86auto

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Posted Yesterday, 01:18 AM

 

 

 

 

 

If you put the estimated quantity of oil and you are that close then that sounds like the dipstick is correct.

I have seen one where someone mixed up A and A+ parts meaning the dipstick was much higher than it should be. It would've required a lot more oil to meet the dipstick.

Sorry they have the same level marking. You can use either in either build. There is no difference.

 

The dipstick itself may be the same length, but when someone adds a dipstick tube to an A+ it will be wrong. That's why I said parts, not dipstick.

 

But it won’t fit. 

 

 

In what way won't it fit?

 

I have a 1980 998 A+ from a moke which when I got it, had a plastic tube and a dipstick like this:
 

attachicon.gif 1.jpg

 

Once the tube and boot were removed, the dipstick is the correct length. There was no modification to the block as a new A+ dipstick fits fine.

 

Note that I never claim to know much about the manuals. All I can tell you is that what I saw, is what I saw and that it definitely had a tube installed with a dipstick like pictured.

 

 

 

Anyway, the OPs problem is long solved. There isn't a likely way for the dipstick to be 1/4" out. If I was putting in the specified amount of oil and came up that tiny bit short, I wouldn't question it at all. I'd add the oil. If it was around an inch out like I found, that is when to worry.

 

Assuming that the oil quantity in each of the quart containers is accurate, the result of adding exactly 5 quarts of oil, plus a filter, was that the oil level on the dipstick was short of the MAX marking by close to a 1/4".  Knowing that the amount of oil added was correct, I remarked the dipstick to reflect the correct minimum and maximum levels.  Regardless, the level was between the MIN/MAX marking, so much ado over nothing. 

 

I would trust the dipstick over the oil bottle markings.



#25 68+86auto

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Posted Yesterday, 01:20 AM

often wondered this as sellers of shiny dipsticks, that you cannot read the level on (had one) listed them at shows as A or A+ styles never got around to measuring the two to compare though

 

I don't understand how one can read those either. One fooled me for a while. I thought it was still full of oil but it wasn't.






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