Slow Cranking With Clutch Depressed
#16
Posted 22 September 2026 - 09:15 AM
#17
Posted 23 September 2026 - 07:57 PM
Hi Aridgerunner. As above please consider further. If the clutch being depressed adds a significant enough resistance to overcome a poor battery then at the very least a clutch adjustment is necessary- but it could still be an installation issue. T
#18
Posted 24 September 2026 - 11:50 PM
I look forward to your comments. I think?
#19
Posted 27 September 2026 - 04:32 PM
I went over the clutch adjustment as has been described here many times in the past. The stop bolt clearance is correct. With the clutch fully depressed I ran the overthrow nut up to the case. Then with the clutch pedal released I turned the nut another half flat in and locked the nuts together. I started the engine and could not select any gears. And I could feel that the pedal was no longer hitting the floor. I then began backing off the overthrow nuts a few flats at a time until I could select any gear. I now have a clearance between the case and the nut of about .100"
I look forward to your comments. I think?
To set the overthrow nuts, slack them off a long way then prise the clutch lever away from the bellhousing as far as it will go and hold it there. This pushes the clutch onto the end of the crank. Now screw the stop nuts back to the face of the housing and let the lever return. Now screw the stop bolts in a further half a turn and lock them.
#20
Posted 27 September 2026 - 05:45 PM
Adjusting the Over-throw nuts back beyond having any clearance is doing nothing for any adjustment. If you are unable to get full disengagement with normal adjustments done, then something is worn or there's an issue on the actuation side if the arm (hydraulics, work pins, pedal etc), or the Primary Gear is locking for some reason (bad bushes, insufficient end float, pinching under the flywheel)
To set the overthrow nuts, slack them off a long way then prise the clutch lever away from the bellhousing as far as it will go and hold it there. This pushes the clutch onto the end of the crank. Now screw the stop nuts back to the face of the housing and let the lever return. Now screw the stop bolts in a further half a turn and lock them.
While this is not how the factory recommend it be done, it's how I set them too. The whole point of them is to prevent over-loading of the Crank Thrusts.
#21
Posted Yesterday, 05:11 PM
Back the overthrow nut(s) well off and check this linear movement before doing anything else.
#22
Posted Yesterday, 09:37 PM
With the pre-vertical clutch, when the pedal is fully depressed the very top of the clutch arm should have a linear movement of between 0.5” and 0.6”. If it has less than this there is a hydraulic problem which is usually the slave cylinder or the flexible hose.
Back the overthrow nut(s) well off and check this linear movement before doing anything else.
Thank you for that information. I have not been able to do any work in the shop for a few days. And it may be a while before I can. When I get the chance I will check that measurement. The hose to the slave cylinder is a new braided one. The master cylinder is the original from 1978, I think. I did put a in a rebuild kit.
Anyway, thanks again.
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Chris1275gt











