39 replies to this topic

[Aridgerunner]

I did the test. .004" end float.

So now I guess it's time to remove the clutch and flywheel and go over the set up again.

[Earwax]

Not trying to 'tell you' anything as I am sure you are very handy in the mechanical department - but for me with unexplained diagnosis I always do a slow teardown measuring everything - even if you think it has nothing to do with the fault.

 

So a torque wrench on a couple of bolts - clutch long and short -  also eyeball the clutch diaphragm and projection of the bolts behind the clutch plate - if you cut down the length of the ears  --- and in this instance the primary gears - and maybe the' throw ' of the starter   - does the throw out bearing need a spacer  etc ?   Good luck

[Aridgerunner]

Earwax, I appreciate your giving me suggestions. I think I'm a fairly good backyard mechanic. And also one that knows enough to know that I don't know everything. Especially concerning Mini's. So I appreciate anything anyone on this forum has to say.

I will double check everything. Pretty sure I made a mistake somewhere.

[Spider]

I did the test. .004" end float.

So now I guess it's time to remove the clutch and flywheel and go over the set up again.

 

Perfect result there and we can put that one to bed.

[Aridgerunner]

So now it is time to remove the clutch and flywheel. Because I borrowed a flywheel puller that is no longer available I need to buy one before proceeding. Once that arrives I can begin the tear down. Getting parts from the UK can take up to a month so it may be a while before I can do much work on it. If I can find a closer source here in the USA that will speed things up. I do not want to start disassembly until I have the puller. I hate having parts laying around because that usually causes at least one little part to run off into never never land.

Thanks again.

[timmy850]

You can try these shops for parts and tools in USA:
Boot to Bonnet
Wild Child Classics

[Aridgerunner]

You can try these shops for parts and tools in USA:
Boot to Bonnet
Wild Child Classics

Thank you for providing those sources. I was able to borrow a puller from a vendor not too far from me. When it arrives I'll start the teardown. Using my bore scope I was able to see the back side of the clutch disc and saw the words "engine side". So at least I know the disc is installed correctly. If all goes well I should have an update by Friday.

Thanks again.

[Aridgerunner]

This morning I pulled the flywheel off. I can't see anything wrong. Everything is as clean as it was when I put it in there.

I then followed Mini Spares instructions on to set up the assembly with their light weight flywheel. They state that the drive straps must lay flat on the pressure plate horns. Not under tension nor with a gap. Well two of them were under slight tension and one has a gap of maybe .030". So I moved the straps one position and the gap went to that position. I then measured the horns on the pressure plate. They are identical. I then measured the spacers they provided. Again, all identical. I will be replacing the drive straps as soon as I can a set. However, I do not think the straps are causing problem. I then measured the release bearing to compare it to another one that my local parts guy says he has. It measured .688".

The clutch disc does slide nicely on the splines so I do not think it is hanging up and cause the problem.

It sure is beginning to look as though I installed the crankshaft thrust washer backwards.

I look forward to your thoughts and comments.

[Earwax]

Just throwing ideas out there before you may have to delve deeper into the engine.

 

Did you get the whole clutch assembly dynamically balanced?  Are all of the long and short clutch pressure plate/strap bolts easy moving ( clean up the threads and check the bolt shoulders to ensure smooth - I had one poor thread that played havoc with torquing equally) - I use the race type or the MED engineering type - but I doubt there is any need

 

I dont think straps would be the problem either- excepting again note that  they allow smooth bolt insertion.

[Aridgerunner]

Just throwing ideas out there before you may have to delve deeper into the engine.
 
Did you get the whole clutch assembly dynamically balanced?  Are all of the long and short clutch pressure plate/strap bolts easy moving ( clean up the threads and check the bolt shoulders to ensure smooth - I had one poor thread that played havoc with torquing equally) - I use the race type or the MED engineering type - but I doubt there is any need
 
I don't think straps would be the problem either- excepting again note that  they allow smooth bolt insertion.

I only had the flywheel checked for balance and the shop removed almost nothing. I guess while it's apart I should have the assembly balanced.

All of the bolts were cleaned and went in easily. I will have to clean them again as I used thread locker to ensure they stayed in place.

While I can't find anything glaringly wrong something is not correct somewhere because following the standard method of adjusting the clutch it will not disengage the disc. To get the clutch to release I have to back off the overthrow nuts quite a bit to where I have about .125" clearance between the stop nut and the wok. And I think that is what is causing the binding/dragging, known as overthrow.

So sometime next week I'll get it balanced and put it all back together. Thankfully its not a terrible job to do.

I'll keep you updated and thanks again.