Am I screwed???
#16
Posted 07 December 2006 - 08:08 PM
dave
#17
Posted 07 December 2006 - 08:24 PM
I'd say £50-80 to carry out the other work, inc. parts!
#18
Posted 07 December 2006 - 08:41 PM
One option that a mechanic I know said was to buy a knackered pre '92 mini and transfer the reg...Is this my only option? (other than getting an MOT from a..'less reputable' source?)
So not only are they failing your car on something they should not fail you on, but also encouraging you to illegally 'ring' your car with an older model and find a person who supplies hinkie MOT's
Not only would I be telling VOSA, but also the managing director or Kwikfit
#19
Posted 07 December 2006 - 09:32 PM
#20
Posted 07 December 2006 - 09:37 PM
I love my MOT station! <3
#21
Posted 07 December 2006 - 10:50 PM
Thanks for the help all.
#22
Posted 07 December 2006 - 10:55 PM
a 94 should have a cat on it however as its running on a carb its not a closed loop sytem so the limit is 2.5%
adjust the mixer so its running leaner, that will sort the CO problem but may increase HC but the fast idle can be raised as part of the emissions test and the limit is 1200ppm.
good luck
tim
#23
Posted 07 December 2006 - 11:08 PM
#24
Posted 07 December 2006 - 11:12 PM
i love the way you lot talk about kwik fit. its hilarious.
i prefer to call it
#25
Posted 08 December 2006 - 12:38 AM
Edited by ianbunyan, 08 December 2006 - 12:38 AM.
#26
Posted 08 December 2006 - 12:46 AM
Anyhoodle good luck for tomorrow FunkyGibbon!
#27
Posted 08 December 2006 - 08:57 AM
I have had previous history with those morons, I'll never take any car there, even if they were the last MOT place on earth. >
As mentioned, the ENGINE should have been tested, not the year of the car. Go back there and get a refund, don't let them fob you off, or offer a free "service" etc, just plain cash!
SS
#28
Posted 08 December 2006 - 09:30 AM
My brother has a '94 M reg Mini 35 which is a 1275 with a carb. The engine number isn't in the book for the injection test so it has the non cat test which is 3.5%CO at idle.
#29
Posted 08 December 2006 - 11:42 AM
Track rod ends are quite easy to do as long as you have a decent splitter. The locknut can be a bit of a brute to undo but once loose all you have to do is unscrew the old rod end, BUT noting 1st how many turns it takes to take the rod off. You can also mark the end of the track rod and steering rack thread BEFORE removing it, with Tipex or paint, so you know where to replace it.
Steering rack gaiters are cheap and easy to replace. Some are fitted with cable ties and some with metal jubilee-type clips.
#30
Posted 08 December 2006 - 11:46 AM
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