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Steering wheel removal - socket size?


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#16 AlexM

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Posted 21 December 2006 - 07:00 PM

The wheel centre nut is the same as that for the tower bolts, driveshaft nuts and crank pulley nut. So you won't be buying it for that one use. Mine is 34mm although as Dan said an imperial socket would be a tighter fit.

#17 mk=john

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Posted 22 December 2006 - 12:36 AM

I thionk the nut size varies, if I remember on My Mk1 Cooper it is larger. Halford always sell a good range of sockets, but generally only do metric. For the imperial sizes in general, I have found that a tool specialist who deal in hand type tools can be a good source.

For the amount of times I change my wheel (Only once when I fitted a Moto-lita), I used a socket a little bit too large, but not to the extent where it would damage the nut.
I know thats not ideal practise, and of course having the exact size socket is always better of course!

Whatever nut size, its always a good idea to grease the splines (not taper), as this will aid removal in the future. New shakeproof washer under the nut is a must in my opinion.

I hope u like my wheel as shown attached!

#18 decampos

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 12:06 AM

Hi everyone. Thanks for your help and advice. Unfortunately it wasn't a 1 5/16" (d'oh). I guess all these cars are different, maybe it's not stock. Looks to be exactly 30mm. I'll try and find the imperial equivilant.

jammy basturd:
Don't think it belonged to Binge. Not an automatic.

#19 Dan

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 11:21 AM

Sure you bought a 1 and 5/16" socket and not a 15/16" one? I've known that to happen!

Could be a fake nut I suppose.

Or is your car a twin-point? I don't think that's been asked has it? A twin point will have a different nut as it's got the column from an MGF basically.

#20 miniboo

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 09:43 PM

93 sprite isnt it?

#21 koss

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 10:04 PM

OE steering wheels can be removed with a puller as they have dimples in the back for the legs to engage in. Leave the nut on but loose so there is a couple of mm gap between it and the wheel (having removed the lockwasher first) and pull or use a puller, hit the rear with a hammer, jiggle it or do what ever you can. You are leaving the nut on so you don't break your own nose when the taper releases (many people have done that) but don't leave it on by just one thread or the impact with the nut could damage the threads and re-fitting will be hard. This is a hard little taper to seperate but eventually they all come undone. Try going out to your Mini in the morning after a really cold night, heat the wheel hub (avoiding the shaft if possible) with a hairdryer for a few minutes and then give it a pull. Don't use a blowtorch or paint stripper or anything silly like that!

Oh, and don't use metric tools on imperial fixings (pet hate #4).

:w00t: I sold a chap a steering wheel for a mk 1 fiesta, he decided to fit it outside the shop, 15 mins later he came back in the shop asking for some toilet paper :genius:




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