46 replies to this topic

[Guess-Works.com]

dunno, but the CV's on the front are not handed... and don't need to be as they rotate with the wheel, it's only fixed stub axles which need to be handed, like the ones of the rear.

[nomininolife]

Plus try not to just exert straight pressure on the bar, try more of a 'bounce'. It is better for the bar and also a bit of a 'jar' effect on the nut. Failing that a run round to your local garage and get them to use the air ratchet on it.



David

[dklawson]

I've never heard of a L/H front nut. Consider this. It's part of the CV joint. If it were a L/H nut there would have to be L/H and R/H CV joints. As mentioned, I know there are L/H and R/H rear nuts.

If you're having as much trouble as you report, DO NOT use or attempt to use, a ratchet with a pipe on it. You will only break the pawls in the ratchet head. Since it isn't your wrench, don't risk it. Borrow a breaker bar. These don't have internal parts to break.

In addition to what's already been suggested, spray the nut with the penetrating oil mentioned above and THEN strike the nut with a brass drift and heavy hammer. Work your way around the nut like this, then let it sit for a while. Spray it again after several hours and repeat the hammer blows. Then try your big socket on a breaker bar with the long pipe. The hammer blows serve to wick the fluid into the joint better than soaking alone.

[Guess-Works.com]

or failing the above, just get the gas onto it and heat it up !

[fikus01]

no1 has suggested having a second person putting down the brake pedal!!

[*DJH*]

no1 has suggested having a second person putting down the brake pedal!!

That Goes Without Saying

[fikus01]

just wanted to make sure sum1 said it!!

[dying2live06]

also slide a scaff bar ova the breaker bar move leaverage
some famous inventer said "give me a lever big enuff and i shall move the earth"
or in this case give me a lever big enuff and i shall remove the castle nut

[vasi]

The method 'stand on the breaker bar and beat with British Leyland Special Tool #0001 (Lump Hammer)' has never failed me.

Edited by vasi, 25 January 2007 - 12:24 AM.

[binge]

Ingersol Rand Air gun!

I take Hub-nuts off with mine at work.


Failing that, As Guessworks said, Get the Gas on it and heat it up. But make sure you re-grease everything afterwards because the heat can dry up all the grease.


<|ben|>

[Xiao_Bin]

thanks for all the advices guys

i'll give it another try next week. Just ordered a new 1.5/16 box socket with a 3/4 drive and a big fat breaker bar of the matching size

[The Matt]

thanks for all the advices guys

i'll give it another try next week. Just ordered a new 1.5/16 box socket with a 3/4 drive and a big fat breaker bar of the matching size

After all's said and done, there's no substitute for having the right tool for the job!

[Xiao_Bin]

well yeah... live and learn

[Xiao_Bin]

just a concern... my castle nut are now tighten to an unknown torque, since an undetermined time. What if it was overtorqued, and then when I loosen and retorque some play appear?

[dklawson]

It is not likely that you'll have any more play when re-tightening the nut. Remember... it's threaded. When you torque the nut during reassembly it will just move further down the threads on the CV.

Here's something to keep in mind though. I assume these are disk brakes... skip this paragraph if you have drums. When you remove the hub parts you'll find a conical split washer just below the castle nut. When you re-assemble the parts and are ready to torque everything up... DO NOT fit the conical split washer. Fit a heavy flat washer over the end of the CV, then the castle nut, then torque everything to spec. Then remove the nut and flatwasher, fit the conical washer and torque the complete and correct assembly one more time. The conical washer collapses on the CV shaft as you torque it. This can cause the setup to torque-up while it's really still loose. The first step with the flat washer seats everything without binding and assures all the play is taken up.