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Lambda Sensor......
Started by
biggav
, Feb 25 2007 02:51 PM
22 replies to this topic
#16
Turbo Nick
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Posted 25 February 2007 - 09:47 PM
#17
Mini-Dave
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Posted 25 February 2007 - 09:52 PM
got mine from a proton satria? gti ! apart from that i really cant help anymore lol
Dave
Dave
#18
Bill USN-1
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Posted 25 February 2007 - 10:17 PM
Don't make this harder then it really is!!!
Get one of the bungs like the one listed above for 6 quid.
Take to a shop and have it welded in to your Y pipe so the sensor is at least parallel to the ground or higher.
You just don't want the tip higher then the wire or moisture can settle in it when cold.
All NB sensors are the same...period!! Some may have a different mounting thread but most are 18mm.
It make no difference what it comes out of. A cheap simple 1 wire sensor will work but may get cold when setting at idle.
It needs to maintain at least 600°.
So it is better to run a 3 wire or a 4 wire O2 sensor.
The actual sensor is still the same, it just has a heater built in so it will be up to and maintain operating temp in about 15-20 sec from cold.
I would need to see a link to your NOS system you are planning but by using a NB O2, it will only be good for the stoick reading of 14.7:1. This is too lean for IMHO for NOS use.
Maybe it just turns off the NOS if it hits the 14.7:1?
I pay as little as $6 for a 1 wire O2 that's 3 quid.
I see people paying 100 quid for some sensors just because they have a special connector on the end of the wire!!
Get one of the bungs like the one listed above for 6 quid.
Take to a shop and have it welded in to your Y pipe so the sensor is at least parallel to the ground or higher.
You just don't want the tip higher then the wire or moisture can settle in it when cold.
All NB sensors are the same...period!! Some may have a different mounting thread but most are 18mm.
It make no difference what it comes out of. A cheap simple 1 wire sensor will work but may get cold when setting at idle.
It needs to maintain at least 600°.
So it is better to run a 3 wire or a 4 wire O2 sensor.
The actual sensor is still the same, it just has a heater built in so it will be up to and maintain operating temp in about 15-20 sec from cold.
I would need to see a link to your NOS system you are planning but by using a NB O2, it will only be good for the stoick reading of 14.7:1. This is too lean for IMHO for NOS use.
Maybe it just turns off the NOS if it hits the 14.7:1?
I pay as little as $6 for a 1 wire O2 that's 3 quid.
I see people paying 100 quid for some sensors just because they have a special connector on the end of the wire!!
#19
biggav
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Posted 25 February 2007 - 10:59 PM
OK... i've bought that plug and i'll get it fitted as soon as it arrives.
#20
Bill USN-1
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Mini Mad
Posted 25 February 2007 - 10:59 PM
Here's a little more info for you.
Found this .. atpgmfi.org
What is a narrowband output?
Narrowband is what your stock O2 sensor is giving you, it is of the range 0-1volts, so there is not very much room for resolution or "accuracy." Also it was engineered to save costs, and really only tells you if you are above or at stoich (14.7:1 A/F). This is not accurate enough for tuning.
What is a wideband output?
A more complicated 02 sensor element is used, and it can give you more usable resolution, from 0-5 volts. It was also engineered to be accurate, re-calibrateably on the fly, and with less emphasis on making a mass-produced economical unit. A wideband needs a special circuit and power source to control it's delicate heating needs. This is the "wideband controller", or controller box, that you see advertized.
Found this .. atpgmfi.org
What is a narrowband output?
Narrowband is what your stock O2 sensor is giving you, it is of the range 0-1volts, so there is not very much room for resolution or "accuracy." Also it was engineered to save costs, and really only tells you if you are above or at stoich (14.7:1 A/F). This is not accurate enough for tuning.
What is a wideband output?
A more complicated 02 sensor element is used, and it can give you more usable resolution, from 0-5 volts. It was also engineered to be accurate, re-calibrateably on the fly, and with less emphasis on making a mass-produced economical unit. A wideband needs a special circuit and power source to control it's delicate heating needs. This is the "wideband controller", or controller box, that you see advertized.
#21
biggav
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Posted 25 February 2007 - 11:13 PM
Cheers Bill.
#22
nomininolife
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#23
biggav
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Posted 25 February 2007 - 11:28 PM
thats more than the controller i'm looking at!!!!!! i literally only need it to shout "LEAN!!!" to the controller incase of a fueling problem, its not going to an ECU or anything like that... may consider a mixture gauge though. i need to look at the prices involved and go from there.
The controller doesn't require the lambda sensor but i'm just considering it as a safety net to stop me burning my pistons.
The controller doesn't require the lambda sensor but i'm just considering it as a safety net to stop me burning my pistons.
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