17 replies to this topic

[J-Lo]

I have a mini that's registered in California... but it seems that it's a '94-'96 update.... it has the 1275, dual SU's, custom exhaust, Sportspack replica body work and wheels...


My questions are based on the fact that this is my first Mini and I'm waiting for my Haynes to get here... I'm mechanically inclined yet I've never owned a "classic" car so I need some assistance with some basics... and knowing that you are all a bunch of swell lads and lasses I figured I'd get help here


My car has a low idle (to the point where it tries to cut of if you don't rev it), when I give it gas, whitish smoke comes out (not a lot, but enough to notice... I think it's running really rich)... can I adjust my own idle or do I have to go to a mechanic?..if I can do it myself, where do I make the adjustments? I smell fuel and I think the car's running really rich, is there anyway I can adjust that myself as well?

Also... see pics below..I need to know what these switches are... and I need help identifying my car... what kind of tranny (push rod, magic wand, etc)

Thanks guys and gals


-J

Attached Files

•  Mystery_switch.jpg   263.58K   6 downloads
•  mystery_switch_2.jpg   225.21K   4 downloads
•  My_Motor.jpg   217.47K   76 downloads
•  Long_And_Short.jpg   228.3K   29 downloads

[minislapper]

I have a mini that's registered in California... but it seems that it's a '94-'96 update.... it has the 1275, dual SU's, custom exhaust, Sportspack replica body work and wheels...


My questions are based on the fact that this is my first Mini and I'm waiting for my Haynes to get here... I'm mechanically inclined yet I've never owned a "classic" car so I need some assistance with some basics... and knowing that you are all a bunch of swell lads and lasses I figured I'd get help here


My car has a low idle (to the point where it tries to cut of if you don't rev it), when I give it gas, whitish smoke comes out (not a lot, but enough to notice... I think it's running really rich)... can I adjust my own idle or do I have to go to a mechanic?..if I can do it myself, where do I make the adjustments? I smell fuel and I think the car's running really rich, is there anyway I can adjust that myself as well?

Also... see pics below..I need to know what these switches are... and I need help identifying my car... what kind of tranny (push rod, magic wand, etc)

Thanks guys and gals


-J

As to the running. Putting the top back on the dashpot will help! How long since the car was tuned/serviced etc?

If it's a '94-'96 then it should be fuel injection, not running carbs so you might want to do some investigating.

First picture - fog light switch (rear lights).
Second picture - brake test switch.

[Bungle]

.. but it seems that it's a '94-'96 update...

is that a nice way to say it was ringed before it was shiped over ?

[Dan]

Your car has no identification in that it isn't really any particular Mini. It has been vastly modified from standard and from whatever it started life as and is nothing to do with what you said last week that it is registered as, which I think was a '68 Cooper S.

That being said judging from the wiring, brake master cylinder and body style I would say it is developed from a mid 80s Mini of some kind.

The orange switch in its own plinth is the rear fog guard warning lamp, should only work while the sidelights are on. It's for the extra lamp hanging under the rear bumper which is a high intensity rear running lamp for foul weather visibility to following traffic.

The switch with a pedal symbol is the low brake fluid warning lamp. If the lamp lights on its own at any point it indicates there is low brake fluid (presuming the circuit is intact). Pressing the switch tests the bulb is working and nothing else. There is also a float switch inside the brake reservoir cap that you should test (by removing the cap and letting the fluid drain into the reservoir) to see if the circuit itself is working. The connectors on the cap tend to corrode badly so have a check to see if it works.

Can't tell what type of transmission is fitted from the photos but judging by the apparant age of the car and the A+ engine block it should be a rod change type. As above check the dashpots for oil and refit the cap. You can set the carbs up yourself at home pretty easily if you have a good ear. It takes a little longer with twins but isn't too hard. The mixture strength is set by the large nut underneath the carb that retains the jet and the idle speed by the screw in the body that the throttle return rests against. The procedure has been discussed on here many times but if you can't find a thread on a search someone will write it all out again for you I'm sure.

by the way there is no return spring fitted to your (pre-Verto) clutch release arm, you should get one.

[THE ANORAK]

does it have a number stamped down in the gutter in this area ? .....



if so PM it to me (don't post it on the forum) and ill tell you the approximate age of the "shell".

if there's no number then

like Dan said, looks like an early 80's car to me, before november 85.

[J-Lo]

THanks guys... I know it's not an original '68... At this point I'm trying to figure out WHAT it is and what I have in it... I know it's FAST... sounds awesome, and I love it because it's a Mini...

but now that I have an idea that its a pre-'85 shell... then I can at least figure out things that I need (New gear stick ...mine's been sawed off so it can be shorter... I need it long again so I can have it bent away from me... when in first and second the shifter hits my leg)...

I'd like to add a fog light so now I know what that switch is....

I'm going to take it in for a tune and check sometime next week... the brake pedal is low and there's no way i can emergency stop... and it needs a general gong over... there's a guy locally that's supposed to be really good with Minis

and Anorak... I'll check for that number this morning (it's 745am here)


thanks for all your help.... and if I've offended anyone with my re-shelled '68 I apologize..... LOL

[J-Lo]

by the way there is no return spring fitted to your (pre-Verto) clutch release arm, you should get one.

thanks for all the info, you've been great... can you point out where the spring should go?

and how much oil should be in the dashpots?


when I take it to the mechanic I'll have him fit a new one then

Edited by J-Lo, 30 March 2007 - 02:56 PM.

[Dan]

You can see the spring tab on the end of your clutch arm in the photo, this should hold a spring that runs along to the slave cylinder and pulls the clutch fully open to relieve stress on the release bearing when it's not in use.

Dashpots should be filled to 1/2" below the top of the piston with oil. Not 1/2" below the opening but below the piston. If you look inside the pot you can see the stem of the piston poking up at you where the damper drops inside and this needs some oil in it. If you overfill it don't panic, it will empty itself into the intake system fairly quickly.

Hey we're not offended that you have this car (I'm not at least) but the actual practise of ringing cars to export them to the USA causes a lot of friction over here. It is completely illegal and in some cases is a way of disposing of stolen cars for profit, not that I'm suggesting this is what has happened with your car.

As for the age of the shell itself I'd agree with Anorak because of the lack of side repeat indicator lamps.

Sorry if I over described the fog lamp and got a bit patronising, I wasn't sure if you'd know what they are since I don't think you have them over there.

The brake pedal should be the highest of the three by far.

[J-Lo]

Sorry if I over described the fog lamp and got a bit patronizing, I wasn't sure if you'd know what they are since I don't think you have them over there.

Thanks... it's ok... my wife and I own a '96 Land Rover Discovery (the only Manual tranny Disco on the West Coast) so I'm familiar with fog lamps... also every Audi, Mercedes, and VW I've seen out here still has the fog lamp built into the rear taillight somewhere...

thanks for the info though...

[J-Lo]

I was looking at a copy of the Haynes Manual that I got from a member here and it seems that, according to the photos, the motor in my car is actually the 998 and NOT the 1275 that it was advertised to be... I'm not stressed... the motor is STILL fast, and I'm still happy with the car.. I think the motor has some serious work done to it... but I'm not sure

oh well... I guess that's what happens when you don't know

[Big_Adam]

No, I say it's a 1275, the rad bracket wrong for a 998 as well as the twin hs4's that would drown a 998.

what makes you think it's a 998 tho?

[J-Lo]

No, I say it's a 1275, the rad bracket wrong for a 998 as well as the twin hs4's that would drown a 998.

what makes you think it's a 998 tho?

the picture in the Haynes looks JUST like my motor but the book says it's a 998... all the parts marked in red are the same on my motor

maybe the Haynes is wrong?....

Attached Files

•  Haynes_998.jpg   83.38K   6 downloads
•  My_Motor.jpg   217.47K   9 downloads

Edited by J-Lo, 31 March 2007 - 01:19 AM.

[J-Lo]

by the way.. I didn't mention that it runs on for about 3-4 seconds or so sometimes after I turn off the ignition

[Xiao_Bin]

look at the thermostat housing, where the top hose of the radiator connects, its not the same on the manual and on your car. yours is at 90° like a 1275,
have a look at the engine number, stamped on a plate riveted somewhere below the thermostat housing, just behind the alternator, if it starts 99H its a 998, 12H then its a 1275

[J-Lo]

look at the thermostat housing, where the top hose of the radiator connects, its not the same on the manual and on your car. yours is at 90° like a 1275,
have a look at the engine number, stamped on a plate riveted somewhere below the thermostat housing, just behind the alternator, if it starts 99H its a 998, 12H then its a 1275

I'll check

Thanks again