14 replies to this topic

[floormanager]

My clutch pedal is worn, so there's play in the joint with the clevis on the master cylinder.  I have a new pedal, refurbished master cylinder with a new push rod, just need to swap over - right?

 

I intend to try to replace the pedal in situ, how successful I'll be I do not know.  I've practiced on a spare pedal box and it is doable with the brake pedal still connected.  I've read all the guides about removing clevis pins and have the special tool to refit it.  The plan is:-

 

Driver's seat out, remove the large duct to the heater, remove clevis pin, undo pedal shaft (will it come out with the heater in position or will I need to remove heater?) remove clutch pedal.  Replace clutch pedal, return to vertical.  Undo and remove master cylinder, replace master cylinder, back under the dash to refit clevis pin and split pin.  Refit seat and bleed clutch.

 

What could go wrong? Obviously, I've missed out all the swearing and bleeding from cuts to hands and arms. I at least know the clutch clevis is not seized.

[mbolt998]

Good luck! The footwell has to be one of my least favourite habitats for working on cars in.

[Davidmt]

Awful job in very little space and on the hottest day of the year so far - you are brave!

Even worse if you wear glasses - mine kept falling off when upside down!  Also helpful to have a good light source.

Good luck.

[DeadSquare]

My clutch pedal is worn, so there's play in the joint with the clevis on the master cylinder.  I have a new pedal, refurbished master cylinder with a new push rod, just need to swap over - right?

 

I intend to try to replace the pedal in situ, how successful I'll be I do not know.  I've practiced on a spare pedal box and it is doable with the brake pedal still connected.  I've read all the guides about removing clevis pins and have the special tool to refit it.  The plan is:-

 

Driver's seat out, remove the large duct to the heater, remove clevis pin, undo pedal shaft (will it come out with the heater in position or will I need to remove heater?) remove clutch pedal.  Replace clutch pedal, return to vertical.  Undo and remove master cylinder, replace master cylinder, back under the dash to refit clevis pin and split pin.  Refit seat and bleed clutch.

 

What could go wrong? Obviously, I've missed out all the swearing and bleeding from cuts to hands and arms. I at least know the clutch clevis is not seized.

Try blessing it before you start, rather than cursing it half way through.

[eric67]

I’d recommend also removing the steering column to make access easier, and then having done that it might be simpler to remove the pedal box from the car, particularly as you are changing one of the master cylinders anyway.

 

But whichever way you do it, Good Luck 

[Chris1275gt]

You will need to drop the heater front and unhook it from the bulkhead hooks and let it dangle as low as possible I didn’t have to disconnect the water pipes. I’m only small with girly hands so while fiddly I didn’t find it too bad. The hard bit is getting springs in and the shaft through and locating the pin in the indent on the L/H side. A small inspection mirror is very useful getting the shaft through the R/H side. Good luck

[maccers]

I done the same recently. Well, I went to replace the pedal box with a non servo type, then got fed up with the whole thing and put it all back as it was!

However, I did remove the pedals from the box in situ and replace with non servo type, it did not work, so like I say put the original ones back.

The heater was removed, the steering column too, seat obviously. It was a bit fiddly but worked fine. I too had a spare pedal box (two infact!) to play with before looking at the one in car.

Just be patient, didn't take me long at all in the end. Needed loads of light though, despite being in a well lit garage.

[Ethel]

Putting it on stands so you can kneel or sit on the ground & reach in might be easiest. IIRC the heater does have to make room to slide the  pin out. If you removed the column, which I don't think is necessary, you may as well take the  pedal box out & do it on your bench.

 

 

 

...not tried it, but how about clamping both pedals together with some nuts & threaded rod through the pushrod holes so you don't have to juggle both pedals & the return spring one handed while trying to get the pin back in?

 

Might also need some supplementary gaffer tape around the pedals.

[floormanager]

Awful job in very little space and on the hottest day of the year so far - you are brave!

Even worse if you wear glasses - mine kept falling off when upside down!  Also helpful to have a good light source.

Good luck.

Ahh I do!!

[floormanager]

Great advice all.  to be honest, I chickened out today as the weather is nice (hot) so my patience might be less when sweaty, especially with glasses falling off!  Monday will be a go.  Heater will be dropped then.  I don't know why but I'm nervous to remove the steering column.  No reason to be I suppose, so I'll take that out too.  Silly really, I've rebuilt the engine and gearbox before so I'm not a complete idiot.

[Gaz66]

If anyone has ever done a clutch adjuster ratchet on an old fiesta this job is like changing an air filter 😁
Just saying.

[Chris1275gt]

Get a lightweight elastic band on the glasses with a bit of sellotape fixed to the arms it does the trick for me.

[Steam]

I do the clevis pins from above so no need to remove any interior bits. Its easiest with the engine out but is still relatively acceptable with it still in.

[floormanager]

Well, today was the day.  I have to say, it went better than expected.  Seat out, heater moved to the passenger footwell.  I did not need to remove the steering column as I had sufficient room.  The old clutch pedal had a 10mm bolt through it, which was easily undone.  Getting the pedal out was a bit of a struggle with the spring, a fair bit of brute force.  New pedal has been beautifully made by Nippy Cars, with the correct square pedal for older cars.

 

Fitment into the pedal box was a pain, especially as after struggling to get it all lined up and the pivot bolt pushed through, I found out that if the clutch pedal is held up to the dash, the heel will not pass the bulkhead!  So out with the pivot, lower the pedal and redo.  Fitting the clevis pin was not too bad, helped by the holding tool. A 'R' clip was fitted in place of the split pin.

 

I've got plenty of scratches and cuts, mainly from trying to undo the master cylinder bolts on cables and jubilee clips.  Pleased it's done, no wear on the pedal now, so the clutch feels better.   Thank you for all the advice.

[Chris1275gt]

Ahh forgot to mention a box of plasters and a tube of germolene. Congrats.