697 replies to this topic

[Jammy]

Yea, I don't think so, I think I've got that pretty sorted, but to be honest I can't be sure. There is a difference in manifold flange thickness, and whilst I made up some special washers to try and compensate, I can't be sure they did the trick, or whether I got them bolted up in the right place.

Having just rang Andy @ MLM, I've tried holding the carb and pulling and pushing, didn't really make a difference, nor did spraying WD40 around the manifold. The breather take off on the carb is blocked, so is the servo take off on the manifold.

Several different maps on the MJ didn't change anything either.

Tried pushing down on the carb spindle throttle bracket and that made no difference, so the butterfly isn't being held open...

I have had to take out the carb spacer and modify the throttle bracket though, I'm wondering if this has anything to do with it, but to be honest I don't think it has.

[Jupitus]

Calver mentions an issue in his twin carb setup article in Minimag where the throttle return can foul on manifolds if spacers are removed... just a thought old bean. Other than that have you gone back to basics on the carb setup and adjustment from scratch?

[T.Harper]

I know you've got a megajolt system, and to be honest I don't even know what these look like, but if it's got a vacuum advance make sure this isn't leaking or cracked. Also check timing just in case you've got way too much advance plugged in, (again don't know if this is possible with megaj)

[Jammy]

Calver mentions an issue in his twin carb setup article in Minimag where the throttle return can foul on manifolds if spacers are removed... just a thought old bean. Other than that have you gone back to basics on the carb setup and adjustment from scratch?

Yea, I removed the spacer and the carb wouldn't even fit on the manifold because of the throttle return hitting the 'fold, so its already been pretty modified! The throttle return is clear of the 'fold and opens and closes without sticking.

Have looked at all the lines but they *seem* to be fine. As I say, I've tried about half a dozen different MJ maps all with varying amounts of advance and none change the idle speed....

Am toying with taking the carb off and redoing the gasket, AGAIN!

[Bungle]

could you remove the filters and block the inlets with the engine running

my thinking is if it stalls the problem is in the carb

if it lowers the revs then it must be a air leak

[Jammy]

Good thinking Bungle, although my guess is that even if there is an air leak, blocking the inlet will reduce the airflow sufficiently as to stall the engine anyway, but will try it.

[GraemeC]

Sufficient free play in the thottle cable? You may be able to push the butterfly closed against cable stretch but the return spring may be struggling. I would set up to have 2mm or so free cable movement before the throttle start to open. Same on the choke cable.

[Jammy]

Even with the cable unbolted it still doesn't make a difference!

Not sure how much a wrong needle would affect things? I've managed to have it rich and lean, so the needle must be somewhere near...

[Jammy]

Good news, some how managed to get the dam thing down to the Industrial Estate the RR is on late last night. The guy needed it there by 6am this morning as he was coming in extra early to get it done as he's off on holiday today! What a nice guy! Rang him a few minutes ago when I got into work, he said he's managed to get it to idle at 1200rpm, and its definitely drivable, he actually said that despite the cam, its quite smooth through the rev range!

Couple of problems though, one being an oil leak on the passenger side, around the timing cover somewhere! The other being quite bad clutch slip, so either the clutch has become contaminated whilst it was out, or I've spaced the flywheel/spring diaphragm housing out too far (with it being an Ultralite). No biggies, as I can sort them out over the weekend!

Can't wait to pick it up and see how it drives, I think once the suspension is set up, it will be a complete transformation between yesterday and Monday!

[CharlieBrown]

Nice one Jammy, glad to hear it went well and the RR guy was a legend!

Get that spare seat fitter for Miss Berry then!!

[Jammy]

Spare seat, thats the last thing on my mind!

Picked it up from the rolling road at lunch today, he's performed a minor miracle! Now runs much smoother, idles properly and is generally much nicer to drive.

Only thing is I now have the following... traits:

Water temp went up to about 110-114 before the fan managed to bring it back to about 100-104. Going to put in an 82* 'stat and plumb the heater back in.
Oil pressure was +70 when cold, ~50 when running, but less than 30 when idling! Might go to 40/15W oil just to mask the problem.
Suspension a bit too hard, plus lots of creaks and bangs when driving! lol
Oil leak from timing cover area, hopefully will rectify over the weekend.
Clutch slipping, quite badly. Will take apart and try clutch cleaner, and have a new clutch plate waiting in the wings if necessary.

[Pie]

Suspension a bit too hard, plus lots of creaks and bangs when driving! lol
Oil leak from timing cover area, hopefully will rectify over the weekend.

Welcome back to the world of driving a mini

Why not stick a 74* thermotwat in and not an 82? Mine ran with a 74 and a minispares 2 core rad and it never got hot.

[miniboo]

30 when idling is ok.

[RacingGreen]

Suspension a bit too hard, plus lots of creaks and bangs when driving! lol
Oil leak from timing cover area, hopefully will rectify over the weekend.

Welcome back to the world of driving a mini

Why not stick a 74* thermotwat in and not an 82? Mine ran with a 74 and a minispares 2 core rad and it never got hot.

You dont drive a mini, you drive a square box with an a series in the front

[miniboo]

oh dear i just realised what car pie has bought