31 replies to this topic

[Jordie]

starter solenoid that looks like. although it could be anything.

[Dan]

Some kind of twin coil relay, possibly for alternating lamps or horns(like police or something). Or for central locking, that uses a double relay also. Or it could be an external regulator for a dynamo, but if it is it isn't a standard regulator. Did the car always have an alternator?

Are you fitting the servo plug the right way? You have to pull the grommet off the pipe elbow and fit that to the servo first, then slip the elbow through it and it should stay in place. If not then I'll send you a servo plug grommet with everything else!

Edited by Dan, 31 January 2005 - 11:43 PM.

[Pavel]

Fitted the circlips today... Took steering column out of mk2 and gave it a nice coat of metallic dark grey. Was gonna fit it but...

Put the car up on a lift and discovered the following. a crack between the floor and front inner arch, from when the floor went up when the car was jacked up... 3mm approx wide, and about 6cm long...

Giving up with this whole thing, tomorrow looking for a new car.

[Pavel]

Okay today visited the car in the garage

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[Pavel]

BLOODY HELL. Stupid internet made me lose my post...

Anyway here goes again...

Took the car today to get the floor welded. 20 minutes and 10 pounds later, the floor has a nice plate welded in from the inside, and sealed off with some sort of rock-hard-silicone-bottle type sealant, undercoated inside and out, and I dont feel in danger when driving the car anymore.

The job is obviously not a mint repair, but I don't care, just don't want a hole in my floor heh

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[Pavel]

Pic of my tower bolt in place, as you can see there is a gap between the bush/washer/bolt head

P.S. in the last pic notice the round hole in my floor... I outta get a rubber bung fitted there

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[Pavel]

Here is a pic of the bolt bush...

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[Pavel]

And the pic of that mysterious hole...

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[Pavel]

It's as if the bush broke, and the bolt was pressing against the bulkhead, and bent the chamfer right back :\

Any ideas what to do in this case and whether or not a solid tower bush might cure the problem?

Also got me a nice (and free:)) Hella battery cut-off. There's 4 more in the box where that came from in case it ever breaks

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[Pavel]

Picture of the other thing I was working on today..

My mechanic's R32 GTR with 1100bhp :]

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[Pavel]

Anyone got any ideas or comments about the tower bolt hole?

[Dan]

Well, you asked so here's what I think.

First read Calvers column in the latest (April 05) Minimag. You probably can't get that yet though so briefly he's going on about collapsed subframe mountings. This is what I think you have going on. The odd thing about the subframe bolts is that you can't tighten them up very far. They only turn in for a certain amount before they run out of thread and lock up. So when the subframe pad collapses over time, you can't take out the slack. This will be why your upper mounts have clearance around them, all the load of the car body is pressing down on the lower one and pulling the top one apart.
This has been left for a very long time in this car. I can't remember if you said that the rear mounts had gone as well, but if they have then that really won't be helping the problem. This means the body has been slopping about on the frame for ages, and clunking the mounts about which is probably how the hole became ovalled and crumpled. It is probably also what has caused the floor to crack.
This must have been the worst handling Mini in the world!
The solid mounts I am sending you will sort this right out, since you can clamp the crossmember much more firmly between the mountings. The only problem could be that ovalled out hole.
I would try to either make some form of jig to put into the hole and use a threaded bar of some kind to pull it straight, or try to push it straight from below with a punch or drift. The jig is probably best. Get some strong bar or better still some box section, a bit longer than the hole and firmly attach (weld or otherwise) a threaded bar or bolt to the centre of it. Then work it down into the hole and pull it up against the top of the crossmember. Put another plate accross the top with a hole in and wind a nut down onto it until the hole starts to re-shape. Then re-shape the chamfer and it should be okay.

Edited by Dan, 28 February 2005 - 11:23 PM.

[Pavel]

Should I try fit them without fixing the hole first since it's not ovaled as such, it's just got a point extending in one direction, and that's the size of the bolt diameter. When the bush is inserted into the hole I don't think it'll be able to move since the hole distortion isn't large enough to accomodate the larger diameter of the bush.

I'll still try to knock out that little bit from underneath, since your jig might not work if the damaged chamfer is completely vertical (nothing stoppping the jig from pushing it underneath the cross member rather than outside the hole.

[Pavel]

Got 5 gauges recently. Look absolutely amazing, can't wait to fit them to the car!

Volts
Oil Pressure
Water Temperature
Boost (well I'm using it for vacuum, and then if I ever go turbo I won't need another gauge :tongue:)
Tachometer

Original plan was to get a bigger tach, but this works for me. These 5 gauges will go behind the steering wheel.

Autogauge smoked series.

Here it is switched off:

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[Pavel]

And now switched on! :cool: :cool: :cool:

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