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#16 Jammy

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Posted 02 November 2007 - 08:53 PM

Click on the images for full size versions.

Key - Posted Image

Diagram - Posted Image

#17 Big_Adam

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Posted 02 November 2007 - 09:03 PM

I have a funny feeling this might be the classic hazard switch buggering everything up again. Try wrapping a peice of un-insulated wire around all the pins on the hazard switch, then plug it back into the loom. Should cause all the indicators to come on?


...so just unplug the switch then?

I shall try it upon the morrow.

#18 Jammy

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Posted 02 November 2007 - 09:27 PM

Yea, unplug the switch, but something like solder wire around the top four pins then push the connector back on. It basically closes the circuit to all the indicators so they should work. If the fronts still don't work then it ain't the switch.

#19 Big_Adam

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Posted 02 November 2007 - 11:12 PM

So short the top four pins on the plug together. Right, (just want to make sure, I am a colossal moron).

#20 Jammy

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Posted 03 November 2007 - 07:02 AM

Yea, I'm pretty sure its the top four. Theres a group of four pins, and then another two pins (you'll see what I mean when you take the connector off), its the group of four you want to short.

#21 dklawson

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Posted 03 November 2007 - 08:20 PM

Jammy, thanks for posting the schematics. I'll study them a little tomorrow and post back to see if I can help and if Big_Adam had any luck sorting it out.

#22 dklawson

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Posted 03 November 2007 - 09:09 PM

I printed out Jammy's schematics and compared them to what I'm more familiar with.

Big_Adam, go back to the first page of this thread and find the link I posted for the MGB wiring schematics. Open it and print out page 32, "Late US Market MGB". Specifically, zoom in on the bottom right corner and use the "print current view" option so you just get a large detail of the hazard circuit on the MGB.

You'll notice that the hazard and turn signal schematic on the page 32 MGB schematic is virtually identical to the one Jammy posted. Here are the differences.
The MGB feeds the hazard flasher with a brown wire. The Mini uses the purple/orange wire. The only difference is the purple/orange wire comes off a brown wire after a fuse. In both cases, the hazard flasher's "B" terminal should have +12V on it at all times as long as the fuse is good.
The MGB schematic puts the turn signal flasher AFTER the hazard light switch, the Mini puts it BEFORE the switch. Functionally... there is NO difference... it can be in either location.

Here's what you need to confirm, with the ignition on, the turn signal flasher should have +12V on its "B" terminal. With ignition on or off, the hazard flasher should have +12V on its "B" terminal.

Zoom in on the MGB schematic. You'll see the hazard switch terminals are numbered. If you've copied Jammy's schematic (turn signal flasher before the hazard switch), there should be a wire from the turn signal flasher's "L" terminal to the hazard switch terminal #8. There should be a light-green/brown wire going from the hazard switch terminal #7 to the turn signal switch on the steering column. If you were to disconnect the wires from the hazard switch there should be continuity between its terminals #7 & #8 when the switch is "OFF". When you turn on the hazard switch there should be NO connection between terminals #7 & #8. In normal mode (hazard switch off) current will pass through the flasher, through the hazard switch, and to the turn signal switch. When the turn signal switch is activated, it will connect power to either the left or right turn signal lamps on the green/white or green/red wires as appropriate.

When the hazard switch is "ON" , the connection between its terminals #7 & #8 will be broken, taking the turn signal flasher out of the picture. However, ALL the remaining four hazard switch terminals will be joined together. What this does is connect the turn signal bulb wires (green/white & green/red) to each other and to the hazard flasher. The third terminal will connect to the hazard flasher's "L" terminal. The fourth switch terminal will be connected to the indicator bulb to show you that your hazards are working.

Go back and make a few voltage measurements, and confirm that you're following either the Mini or MGB schematic. (They are functionally the same so either will work, choose one). Once you've copied the schematics and confirmed that each bulb works on its own, try the hazards and see if you have any problems and report them here. Likewise, turn the hazards off and the ignition on and see if the turn signals are working properly and let us know. Once you've confirmed that you're following one of these schematics and report what the bulbs are doing under each test condition we'll be able to help you sort this out.

#23 Big_Adam

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Posted 03 November 2007 - 09:43 PM

I shall check on Monday then as I just tried to use an Ezebleed. Works well but NONE of my banjo unions where tight enough.

So bye bye bulk head paintwork.

#24 dklawson

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Posted 04 November 2007 - 07:47 PM

I just tried to use an Ezebleed. Works well but NONE of my banjo unions where tight enough.
So bye bye bulk head paintwork.


For a seldom used collector car, this is a very good reason to use DOT-5 brake fluid instead of DOT-3.

#25 Big_Adam

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 04:20 PM

Hey DkLawson, I use dot 4. Asked about silicone and people said bad things. So I was an idiot and went for the paint eating stuff.

Anyway.

Today I have learned;

1) My clutch is either full of air or fecked.
2) Easy bleed suck donkey danglys as they spit fluid everywhere if their not screwed on with the same force as that which created the earth.
3) Easy bleed rock as you don't need an assistant once they work.
4) Easy bleed suck as my brakes are full of air....STILL.
5) My indicator flasher DOESN'T WORK. Switched it with the hazard one and the rears worked.
6) After good Mr Jammy's idea I still had no power to the front indicators....or the sidelights.
7) Brake fluid taste like C**p (long story).
8) My back hurts.

So after all that I learned I have no feed to any of the lights at the front bar the main proper lights.

So, questions once more.

1) Would it be okay to take a feed of the front to rear loom split to feed the front lights? Or should I do a relay, extra fuse and all that gubblins?
2) What size is the sump plug? I lost my socket.
3) What is the closest imperial to 11mm. Long story.
4) I ran El Odio and all was well, if I suck on the vac advance (adding to the advance at idle) the rev's would pick up but past point X the engine sounded like it was run on spanner. Going with thats plinking?
5) Any tips to sooth my back? Naked oiled women perhaps?
6) Is having the sides and the main beams on illegal?
7) Who put the bomp in the bomp she bomp?

Ta very much.

#26 Jammy

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 05:03 PM

Just to ignore all those questions...

If your sidelights and indicators aren't working, on both sides I'm thinking there is something wrong with the way you've earthed them...

#27 dklawson

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 05:26 PM

Sorry Big_Adam. I agree with Jammy. Start a new thread for the other questions. Let's keep this thread about your indicators.

Try this. Find the green/red and green/white wires feeding the front lamps. Disconnect them (both of them) from the rear portion of the harness. Make a jumper lead and connect it to the FRONT green/white wire. Connect the other end of the jumper to the HOT terminal on the starter solenoid. This should apply +12V directly to the lamps. If they fail to light, look for bad earth connections, broken wires, blown bulbs. Repeat for the green/red wire. Make sure each circuit is capable of powering the lights "on".

Once you know the front lights are capable of working... leave them disconnected and switch on the ignition. Activate the turn signals. Use a volt meter from the rear harness portion disconnected above and chassis ground. You should find +12v between the disconnected wire and ground. If you don't, follow the wire(s) back to the turn signal switch looking for power. You've got to do this separately for the green/red and green/white circuits until you find where the power is dropping out.

Look at Jammy's or the MGB's schematics for the flasher circuit. Treat this as a road map. Probe the connections and wires back towards the flasher units until you find WHERE you're loosing power.

#28 Big_Adam

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 06:31 PM

No, the front lamps (in any case) are NOT connected.

I get no power what so ever to the front side lights or indicators. Nothing. Nada. Zip. Zero. Zilch. Blank. Diddly squat, Naught. Nil. Squat. Zilch.

No power. No spark. I know the gound I was using was fine. Tested it off the starter solenoid.

#29 dklawson

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 08:07 PM

Use the wiring diagrams as a flow chart (either Jammy's Mini wiring or the MGB schematic I posted the link for).

Read over your second post on this page. LOOK AT THE BACK OF THE HAZARD SWITCH. Make sure you've got the six wires on the back of the hazard switch on the correct terminals. If you DO NOT find numbers on the back of the switch DO THE FOLLOWING. Pull all the wires OFF the switch. Turn the switch ON. Use your multimeter in continuity or ohms mode. Probe the contacts. You'll find FOUR (4) terminals that should be connected to each other when the hazard switch is on. Make sure that the turn signal flasher wires are connected to the OTHER two terminals on the switch.

Once you've confirmed the hazard switch circuit is correctly hooked up to ITS four terminals on the switch, turn the hazard lights on and probe the wires DOWNSTREAM from the hazard flasher until you find where you're loosing power.

Edited by dklawson, 05 November 2007 - 08:08 PM.


#30 Big_Adam

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 08:19 PM

Well I did Jammys wire trick and go no feed. So I'll do the ohm thing tomorrow.




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