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Jason The Minus


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#31 paulrockliffe

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 12:04 PM

Made a bit more progress in the dark last night;

I had eartherd the rev counter onto what I thought was an earth, but was actually the engine temperature sender - anyone know why this would cause the odd read outs I was getting? Anyway, the rev counter works properly now.

I also discovered that what I thought was the earth for all the electrics was actually the brake light switch. I have no idea everything was supposed to be earthed, but I've fitted my own earths now, so just need to re-wire the brake lights, sort out the hazard lights and then get on with wiring all the clocks in.

Inabit............

#32 James182

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 12:06 PM

looks great! just gotta get mine going like this now!

James

#33 paulrockliffe

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 11:15 PM

Managed to sort most of the electrics today, the fuse I blew was because I put a wire in the wrong place, sorted that out first, then I got the rear lights wired in, the brake lights wired in, then the hazards. Hazards were tricky and I don't think they could have been working with the switch that came with the car, once I'd sorted a second flasher and a two-pole switch, all the lights were working apart from the headlight main beam and flash.

I think there's a problem with the stalk switches, so I might wire the main beam up on to a set of switches, with a push button to flash temporarily so that I know the circuitry is correct and so that I can get it MOT'd while I sort a replacement set of stalks.

I managed to wire in all the gauges too, fuel gauge works, just need to locate the temp sender wire and get a feed for the oil pressure gauge and everythings done on that front. I realised that the rev counter was earthing through the alternator sense wire, so once that was earthed properly the rev counter worked!

Tomorrow I'm going to try to fit the speedo cable and sort out the throttle linkage so that the engine idles properly and then fit the choke. Once that's done I'll sort the headlight main beam stuff out and maybe wire in my stereo and CB radio and if that's all done book an MOT!

#34 bennett

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 11:18 PM

thats 1 sexy lookin mini you got there

#35 paulrockliffe

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 08:42 PM

Thought I'd treat you al to a little update!

In the last couple of days I've discovered sidelights and made them work, made the main beam flash, made all the lights work, re-wired the number plate light so that circuit works and added some LED light bolts, so eventually the normal number plate light can come off. (COOL!) I have wired up the dash board lights too, but they either need new bulbs, or need to be earthed better through the slightly rusty body of the clocks as none of them work.

So in summary, I have taught myself how all the electrics work and fixed almost all the problems, just a few little bits to do now!

I got *Drunk or yellow human water* off with the indicator stalk switch, the main beam would either not work or not turn off and the indicators would just stop working for hours on end, then come back to life, so I've decided to go with my long-term plan and remove everything from the steering column, horn, main beam and indicators moved. Need a few switches to do the wipers and screen-wash.

The plan is to add push switches to the steering wheel arms for both indicators, horn and main beam flash, maybe a main-beam cut-out too, and then run the wires through some of that cable like what CB radio mikes are attached with. isn't it.

I decided to get a carb balancer and a colortune and set up the carbs properly, I decided there was no chance of a carb balancer at Halfrauds, so bought one on ebay, then got a colortune at Halfrauds and they had a carb balancer!! How many of them do you think they sell each week??? It was 2 quid cheaper than ebay too. Gutted.

So carb to set up and still need some day light hours to get the speedo cable fitted, put a harness in and MOT!

Once thats done you can all help with some interior decorating................

I'm worrying myself because every time I see him I can't help thinking with him being so low he'd look amazing with green neons, or those LED strip all round. Is that wrong of me? My last mini had a blue neon cable tied to the rear subframe (not my idea - she came like that), that looked pretty cool. Oh dear!!

I'd have taken some pics for you, but it's dark and you don't really want to see the mess I've made, wires everywhere!!

#36 paulrockliffe

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Posted 30 November 2007 - 05:37 PM

Am away at the moment, but I have acquired a colortune, carb balancer and a pair of K&N filters :dontgetit: So I should be able to get things sorted fairly soon.

Have realised I'm (probably) a complete idiot. Engine running very hot? Any coolant in the radiator Paul?? Bit worried no one else has pointed that little check out though!! Odds on the radiator is dry................. :lol:

#37 paulrockliffe

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 06:44 PM

The radiator was fine, I topped it up a little and the engine is running at a normal temperature now, I guess maybe I didn't realise how hot things should get.

Anyway, I have had the carb balancer and the colortune out this afternoon for a bit of a play. A quick look at the spark plugs gave a fairly good indication of the engine condition:

Posted Image

:withstupid:

I soon had the plugs cleaned up and set about leaning out the engine, balancing the carbs and setting the idle speed. I'm taking the car to a rolling road once it is MOT'd so getting things perfect wasn't essential. I managed to get it sorted eventually, though I can't get the car to idle below 1500 rpm with the carbs balanced. I don't know why, but the airflow into the left hand carb was vastly lower than the right until the engine was at 1500rpm, the idle stop was all the way out on the right hand side. Any ideas?

Once I'd done as much as I could be bothered with I decided to fit my new K&N filters:

Posted Image

Can anyone spot the problem here?

Can I put a spacer between the left hand carb and the filter so that it fits? Should need about 12-15mm I think. I know that it will alter the induction slightly, but so long as the carbs are balanced it's not a problem is it?

Right, so it all goes pretty well now, apart fromt he high idle speed, only mior problem is that the throttles stick open! It's a bit odd in that it doesn't stick when I pull the throttle cable by it's casing under the engine bay, but does when i use the throttle pedal. Does this meant he cable is sticking in the casing or the pedal itself is sticking? Hmmmmmmmmm.

So just need to sort this sticky throttle, tidy up inside, fit a harness, tidy up the dash board and he's good to go.

Tonight's Questions:

Is there an idle speed test in the MOT?
Why can't I get my carbs balanced and the engine to idle below 1500 rpm?
Can I spacer one of my filters so they both fit?
Why does my throttle stick?
Do I need a choke for MOT?

#38 paulrockliffe

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 06:46 PM

Oh yeah and the engine runs on once the ignition has been killed. The engine stalls after about 15 seconds, but I'm pretty sure it won't pass MOT like that. It only happens when the throttle is stuck open and the engine is running at about 2500+ rpm.

Ideas?

#39 paulrockliffe

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 10:42 PM

Just been out working in the dark, made some good progress, finally getting the switches isntalled on the dash and the clocks all in. Waiting for a wiper switch and a push button to do the horn and the screen wash, then almost all the wiring will be sorted. Think all that's left is the dash illumination and the mainbeam warning light, I'm either missing bulbs for these or they're not earthing properly, so need a little work.

I took a few pictures for you, the dash isn't particularly pretty, infact it's a complete mess, but it's only temporary. I have a plan.

Centre clocks, with horn and indicators below, hazards to the left, lights and key/ignition/starter to the right:

Posted Image

Rev counter professionally mounted (taped to steering column!):

Posted Image

Rear Seat:

Posted Image

Passenger Seat:

Posted Image

Hopefully I can get the rest of the wiring done, tidy up the interior and fit a harness in the next few days, then it'll be pretty much good to go I think.

#40 RacingGreen

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 10:58 PM

Once I'd done as much as I could be bothered with I decided to fit my new K&N filters:

Posted Image

Can anyone spot the problem here?

Can I put a spacer between the left hand carb and the filter so that it fits? Should need about 12-15mm I think. I know that it will alter the induction slightly, but so long as the carbs are balanced it's not a problem is it?

Right, so it all goes pretty well now, apart fromt he high idle speed, only mior problem is that the throttles stick open! It's a bit odd in that it doesn't stick when I pull the throttle cable by it's casing under the engine bay, but does when i use the throttle pedal. Does this meant he cable is sticking in the casing or the pedal itself is sticking? Hmmmmmmmmm.


The problem with the carbs is they are the wrong air filters i believe, twin su's use different filter to single ones, i believe they have a flat face.

Mike

Edited by RacingGreen, 04 December 2007 - 11:00 PM.


#41 Bungle

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 11:02 PM

i think twin carb air filters have off set holes in the back

#42 paulrockliffe

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 11:12 PM

i think twin carb air filters have off set holes in the back


They do have some different holes ont he back, though I'm not sure if they will offset the carb, actually I think that they won't but maybe I could drillt hem in the right place. Anyway, can I just spacer it or not?

#43 Bungle

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 11:20 PM

its the big hole as well as the fixing holes that are off center

#44 paulrockliffe

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 11:47 PM

its the big hole as well as the fixing holes that are off center


Yes, I hadn't forgotten about the big hole being the most important, but the big hole is offset towards the bottom of the filters, so the filters could be rotated outwards and fit with holes in the correct place.

Do you understand what I mean? anyway, I checked and the other holes are for a different carb, they don't let the filters rotate away from each other.

I'm sure that so long as I can put the holes in the right place though it should be a simple job to rotate the flters away from each other.

#45 Bungle

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 08:06 AM

dont forget to block the unused holes




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