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#16 mini93

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 11:04 PM

came home from work then went to my friends to borrow tools, got dragged in to help him with his 205 then came home and started replacing my hub assembly, rather straight forward
on the test drive i found it hadnt solved my main broblem (apart from needing to replace the wheel bearing which was knacked!) the brakes were binding and locking on.
i found it was my bias pedal box the arm going across broth master cylinder was catching on the clutch master cylinder so it was holding the front cylinder braked so i was trying to drive forward at the same time as accelerating...in a rather feble attempt when you have alloy 4 pots
after adjusting the lever arm lengths it was away from the cylinder, but i now think i have too much bias on the rear brake circuit so ill have to fiddle with it again soon

it drives better now, no stupid knocks from stupid wheel bearing :withstupid:

#17 mini93

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Posted 06 January 2008 - 12:42 PM

clutch isnt disengaging fully so im replacing alll of the hydraulic system wiiiith mechanicle clutch kit, iv agreed to buy 2nd hand one from jonhK for bargin price of £55, even if it doesnt solve my problem its a good bonus for reliablility. my friend was always having trouble with his slave cylinder in his rally car so now i wont have to faff with it. its an easy thing to fit aswell all i gotta do (famous last words :lol: ) is drill a holl in the pedal for clevis pin and drill a hole in the bulk head for the arm to pass through

if you dont know what the mechanicle clutch kit looks like, tis here...linkie <----

engines all run in now, were having a group RR session at the end of this month so im just going to wait till then to get it set up

also got my rallying pack for christmas, looking at some of the regulations (and my logbook) some plonka (understatment) has cut the rear diagonal bar which is a mandatory part...dont know what goes through peoples head sometimes!!! so gotta get a new one welded in place before i can rally

also before i start competing i want my own colours kinda, so im thinking white base, because the car is currently white and above the waist line have a quite rich but fairly dark red, and arches aswell to be red. also wheels redone in white but im not going to do them properly im just gona whack paint on them with the tyres still on (but masked up)

and that should just about do it! getting my overalls and stuff next week i hope

#18 Mean mini man

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 10:30 AM

right (for the 2nd time bloody conection!!!) iv decided to start up my project for the rally car. when i start rallying il have to keep upto date with repairing bit and changing things as i feel fit

The cars great only one or two problems at the moment (other than getting used to the dogbox) last wednesday i came to start the mini and was misfiering/ weak spark quite badly. i was planning to take it to southam mini and metro centre to investigate a rattling noise (which is aparently how straightcut gears sound lol) but that problem got overlooked when i bearly made it there. Turns out Cyl. 1 and 4 were fouled with oil giving weak/no spark
rod there said it might possibly be cylinder head so i did a bit of intesigating on saturday, took the Cyl. head off then and didnt apear to be any signs of blowing, to make sure i took it to southam they said was all good.
They said then that the cause could possibly be because the carb' is overfueling a fair amount it could be bore washing disallowing the rings to seal correctly (new engine) there for the allowing oil into the combustion process and onto the plugs etc

i decided while the head was off id clean it up, because oil was entering the cylinder it had passed to the ports leaving it 'orrible n sticky

inlet ports were clean but shows some of the porting that its had

so tonight it was ready to go back on..i did however notice the hone marks werent thaaaat great

Hone marks.

Bores.

Head fitted.

All back together....well almost my torque wrench wasnt high enough so still need to be fully torqued down (pinched up tight at the mo) after that iv got to make sure coolent hoses are connected correctly, connect accel' cable check tappets and run up to temperature. once thats done redo the torque, fill with coolent and bleed the air from the system.
then thursday night or at latest saturday going for a rolling road session ready for malven on the sunday

Hello i just have a quick question the scratch marks in the cylinders. are they a problem beacsue i have had mine rebored and recently the head blew i removed the head to see marks that are similar to what i have seen in your pictures, admitedly they are not that bad but i was wondering if they where going to get owrse and if so would they cause problems??

#19 mini93

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 07:28 PM

there called hone marks, engines have to be honed after a re-bore and also when the piston rings are replaced, it creats that slightly rough texture, this wears the piston rings into the shape of the cylinder walls which in turn allows the rings to seal correctly eliminating piston ring blow by


on other news been to the autosport show today and spent over £500 on overalls etc

to be done to the mini before my 1st even(which i hope to be in march and rockinham stadium)
set up engine after being run in on the 26th
set up the steering and suspension
have a crossbar welded into place
get name for driver and co driver to put on the windows
fit mechanicle clutch

should have my BARS test soon, very soon as much as i have to get on with that ASAP!!! hoping the 25th of this month
entry fee for rockenham is £215 which has to go in soon aswell
need to have a medicle
buy clubmembership
and last my licence

#20 mini93

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 07:14 PM

aparently rockinham isnt in march...its on the 15th of feb :ermm:

#21 mini_kel

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 07:34 PM

aparently rockinham isnt in march...its on the 15th of feb :ermm:


Will u be ready in time?

#22 mini93

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 07:57 PM

haha, i better be, sending off for entry fee soon at £215 i dont want to waste it

got my bars test for the 22nd of this month...not 25th...not much time to revise the blue bible

#23 mini93

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 12:36 AM

silly mini it has a taist for eating spark plugs...this is the 2nd set its decided to crack for no reason
link <-- link to my problem topic

there changed now anyway for some 3 electrode jobbies i pinched from my other mini

accelerator cable changed...was about 2 strands before snapping...much smoother action now!

Edited by mini93, 15 January 2008 - 12:39 AM.


#24 mini93

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 07:27 PM

Posted Image

mechanicle clutch kit has arived, looks like a good bit of kit too...hopfully fit it on the weekend

#25 JetBLICK

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 07:36 PM

saw that on s.h's site before... been tryin to figure out what goes where tho. seems to me that the one end goes directly onto the pedal and the other directly onto the clutch arm, thats kinda obvious... but i cant picture in my head, how it mounts?

#26 mini93

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 07:40 PM

i layed it out pretty much how it goes, the longer rod ont he right hand side goes to the pedal...2 holes have to be drilled one in the pedal for the clevis and on in the bulkhead for the arm to pass throught

the central pivot mounts to an existing hole

left arm mounts directly to clutch arm

BOSH...tools are at work so i cant do it now :wub: aaand its raining and dark but the last 2 are minor details

#27 JetBLICK

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Posted 15 January 2008 - 07:47 PM

aaaaaaaah i get ya... so it dont mount to the pedal where it normally goes, it actually mounts before the pivot so to speak. I get ya. Clever :wub: the adjustable rod should help, thers always problems when you use a modified fly, because you ave to either bend the clutch arm or weld a bit on the end of the rod.

Nice :wub:

#28 mini93

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Posted 17 January 2008 - 05:39 PM

frick frick frick frick frick frick FRICK!!!!

urgh master cylinders the problem...how do i know...it broke on the way home yesterday from work managed to get it to my freind so i could borrow his tools to do the job, started at 5.30 or so didnt even get it done by 9.30 or sumin
thing that are annoying....
1. getting that frickin split pin out!
2. getting said frickin split pin out....made even worse when you have a welded in rollcage in the way and bucket seats with high sides
3. acward to get to the bolt of the clutch Cyl. especialy with weber carb and KAD bias pedal box
4. the clevis pin, from the clutch arm to that little connecter shaft which goes to the slave cylinder, its replaced with the mechanicle clutch...clevis was sceized so i had to drill the head off and using a drift punch it out
aaand now..the biggest PITA coming in at number five! drum roll please...
5. not being able to fit the frickin mechanicle clutch kit because it apears the clutch arm is too close to the bell housing even tried chopping some thread down so it could wind it in further but nope

#29 mini93

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Posted 17 January 2008 - 08:44 PM

i dont have time for thiiiiis!!!!

clutch release bearings facooked! so it might be route cause for the clutch arm not sitting at correct point and thus why i couldnt do master cylinder...or i hope so...im thinking about towing it to southam to let them do it, alot of reasons i just cant be bothered

so, i currently dont have transport, clubman hasnt got brakes and raly car no clutch and i need to get to silverstone on tuesday to do my BARS test uuurgh!!!

#30 *DJH*

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Posted 17 January 2008 - 09:03 PM

have a look at the train time tables, if you can't get either one of the cars done, that's the next best option. :D




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