57 replies to this topic

[Jammy]

Personally I'd say if it was something as basic as the timing you could have sorted it in 2 hours!

Get it down to a rolling road, they'll be able to tell you whether its timing or fueling, they'll also be able to fix it for you!

I don't see why you'd be able to do the timing any better with the engine out the car.

Moved to Technical.

[Ethel]

The firing order is 1-3-4-2 but the outside 2 pots reach TDC together when the inside 2 will be at BDC to help balance the crank assembly so the engine is nice 'n smooth - well smoother it is an A series


It must be running very rich - have a look at your air filter.....

The best thing you could do is swot up on the ignition a little bit then follow through a Haynes or similar to confirm it's set up properly - don't even bother about trying to start the car until you have. Once you're happy with that do the same with the carb, filter, etc.

Following conflicting advice of us lot is just going to have you chasing your tail in circles.

[RetroRacer21]

Personally I'd say if it was something as basic as the timing you could have sorted it in 2 hours!

Get it down to a rolling road, they'll be able to tell you whether its timing or fueling, they'll also be able to fix it for you!

I don't see why you'd be able to do the timing any better with the engine out the car.

Moved to Technical.

Cheers Jammy,

I have a look at it tomorrow, I hope its something simple.
but it just doesnt feel like it,

How would I sort the Dizzy out? if your looking at it straight on, its pointing towards 10-11 and needs to be around 1-2
if I can get the dizzy to where it should be, and the Timing chain correct I think it would be ok.

I think the belt is on wrong, and the Dizzy messed up,

peter baldwin is about 60miles away, dont think my car would make that.
not sure if there any other's closer, but I keep looking.

[RetroRacer21]

The firing order is 1-3-4-2 but the outside 2 pots reach TDC together when the inside 2 will be at BDC to help balance the crank assembly so the engine is nice 'n smooth - well smoother it is an A series


It must be running very rich - have a look at your air filter.....

The best thing you could do is swot up on the ignition a little bit then follow through a Haynes or similar to confirm it's set up properly - don't even bother about trying to start the car until you have. Once you're happy with that do the same with the carb, filter, etc.

Following conflicting advice of us lot is just going to have you chasing your tail in circles.

its overwelming, all the advice given, I dont think I have the balls to do it.
Id rather let the mini experts fix it.

Id like to know what it was, and how to fix it.
I keep you updated and see if I can sort it out over the week.

cheers

[RetroRacer21]

oh yea.
I noticed now.

When the car is running, this morning on the way to work.
put my lights on, the right indicator would light up on my dash, but no lights on car.
and the rev meter would stop working,

turn lights off. then was ok.
went down the road, put them back on all fine.

I know the wireing is all ok, all new stuff in there.
only started to happen now the car is playing up.

But yes, car is running like a alcoholic

[Jammy]

Have you got a Haynes manual?

Take the number 1 (nearest the rad) spark plug out and remove the distributor.

Put a screwdriver down the spark plug hole and turn the engine over until the piston is at the top of its travel.

The slots in the distributor drive should point to roughly 2 o'clock and 7 o'clock. A Haynes manual will be able to tell you whether the drive is 180* out or not.

If the drive is pointing in the right direction then the timing chain is fine, if not its entirely possible the drive is a couple of teeth out.

To be honest, if you say the car goes like a rocket from about 4k rpm onwards, then it suggests the timing is fine, and that what I've wrote above is irrelevant.

Changing things like the exhaust and the carb places different breathing requirements on the carb, and each time you change something in the breathing process of the engine, you MUST adjust the needle to suit. Generally if its only a small change you might get away with just altering the mixture slightly, or reprofiling your current needle (only if you know what your doing). Generally, if you change something like an exhaust (and your replacement is different to your last one), you'll need at least a new needle, and preferably/essentially a rolling road session.

[imabitnaughtyxx]

what you might consider is an engine tuner (mobile) they would be able to sort out lot of things for you in order for you to get the car at least running a bit better especially the timing
i normally use mobiletune in the yellow pages, they are good for older cars ( dreadful for newer ones though) its normally about £50 or maybe less
thats all i can think of at the moment to help you but definately worth a try xx KC

[MINI 1]

Hey people!

Well...

After a very long weekend. (actually... short. just realised back to work again tomorrow)
I been doing my mini, together with a friend, and my uncle's help.

We started off replacing the exhaust system.
Managed to get my RC40 on there, and metro carb on there.

But after just getting in and finishing my dinner.
We got to the stage, where...

it ran really C**p, was running ever so so so rich, To start the car, You'd take of the petrol pipe off.
on the carb and put it in the air-filter. the car would start... lol
otherwise it wouldnt. put any rev's on the car it would die.

after hours later...

got it running, but still very rich, and lots of smoke rings later...

What we think is the problem is, the Timing.

Basicly, the owner before me, had the whole engine out, (painted everything)
but put back, messed with all the Timing. (top end)

Its so far out, that the Dizzy is basicly 180'degre's from where it should be,
we got it to run, (once you doing about 4,000rpm+ its like a rocket) goes like a race car...
otherwise 2,000-3000 its jumpy, and wants fuel. pull the choke out, and booom! your off again!

Basicly the only way I can get it to run nice (and normal) is to take the engine out,
and sort the Timing out propperly.

Im going to work tomorrow, hopefully get there ok.
But yes... Timing... never new it to be such a problem!

any Timing stories?

That is the same thing am going throughright now................. ave been trying to get some one who has same problem

[RetroRacer21]

Have you got a Haynes manual?

Take the number 1 (nearest the rad) spark plug out and remove the distributor.

Put a screwdriver down the spark plug hole and turn the engine over until the piston is at the top of its travel.

The slots in the distributor drive should point to roughly 2 o'clock and 7 o'clock. A Haynes manual will be able to tell you whether the drive is 180* out or not.

If the drive is pointing in the right direction then the timing chain is fine, if not its entirely possible the drive is a couple of teeth out.

To be honest, if you say the car goes like a rocket from about 4k rpm onwards, then it suggests the timing is fine, and that what I've wrote above is irrelevant.

Changing things like the exhaust and the carb places different breathing requirements on the carb, and each time you change something in the breathing process of the engine, you MUST adjust the needle to suit. Generally if its only a small change you might get away with just altering the mixture slightly, or reprofiling your current needle (only if you know what your doing). Generally, if you change something like an exhaust (and your replacement is different to your last one), you'll need at least a new needle, and preferably/essentially a rolling road session.

cheers for the well layed out post.
we did the first bit, but only to find the Top End,

We put it in gear, rocked it back to find the two teeth marks on the Timing wheel, matched up.
took the spart plug out and put a screw driver down there to see if the top end was correct to match the marks on the wheel.

it was about 5-6cm out from where it should be.

I see if I can take the dizzy out and have a look,
I have lots of mini manual's so I get one, and have a good read.

the mini goes like a rocket, If I pull the choke out full, hit around 5k rpm, then its ok, but otherwise no choke, I can only tap the pedal at the very top to keep it moving steady.
if I put my foot down with no choke, it slows down, and jumps around wanting to die.

if I can get it running ok, and able to put my foot down ok, I book it into a rolling road and drive there.
otherwise I cant get to it with the car like it is.

I keep reading this thread, and the manual. and try to work out what to do next.
cheers for the help.

[RetroRacer21]

what you might consider is an engine tuner (mobile) they would be able to sort out lot of things for you in order for you to get the car at least running a bit better especially the timing
i normally use mobiletune in the yellow pages, they are good for older cars ( dreadful for newer ones though) its normally about £50 or maybe less
thats all i can think of at the moment to help you but definately worth a try xx KC

thanks, I might try and find one, got any numbers that you have used or know off?
for me to drive it too far is too much,

just got to work, and home ok. 23miles.
I have alook tomorrow

[RetroRacer21]

That is the same thing am going throughright now................. ave been trying to get some one who has same problem

I hope you sort your's out, and visa versa,
its a real pain, specially when I love driving the mini, and right now. im scared too.

[Jammy]

the mini goes like a rocket, If I pull the choke out full, hit around 5k rpm, then its ok, but otherwise no choke, I can only tap the pedal at the very top to keep it moving steady.
if I put my foot down with no choke, it slows down, and jumps around wanting to die.

Surely this tells you the problem is mixture related and not ignition?

[imabitnaughtyxx]

what you might consider is an engine tuner (mobile) they would be able to sort out lot of things for you in order for you to get the car at least running a bit better especially the timing
i normally use mobiletune in the yellow pages, they are good for older cars ( dreadful for newer ones though) its normally about £50 or maybe less
thats all i can think of at the moment to help you but definately worth a try xx KC

thanks, I might try and find one, got any numbers that you have used or know off?
for me to drive it too far is too much,

just got to work, and home ok. 23miles.
I have alook tomorrow

look in yellow pages for engine tuners...mobile, as i said look for mobiletune, the guy i used a few times on previous old bangers has a little sooty van with all manner of tuning gear inside, old bangers are a speciality...lol
they come to your house and do the work it takes about an hour or so.

[RetroRacer21]

the mini goes like a rocket, If I pull the choke out full, hit around 5k rpm, then its ok, but otherwise no choke, I can only tap the pedal at the very top to keep it moving steady.
if I put my foot down with no choke, it slows down, and jumps around wanting to die.

Surely this tells you the problem is mixture related and not ignition?

yea it does,
but we spent a day just adjusting the mixtures and carb, dizzy,
we had it running really nice, but then turned it off wouldnt start. (just flooded it, and wanted more petrol)

I think your right though, needs a rolling road, and correct needles, mixtures, and getting the dizzy correct.
but the Timing is still way out, we had the same problem when I first got it. and only just got it running ok.

[Ethel]

A mobile tuner sounds the best plan, rolling roads are too expensive for general fault finding. The timing chain also effects valve timing and is too simple to set up for anyone to get wrong