43 replies to this topic

[liirge]

Hello all,
I have purchased a rubber cone spring compression tool from Minispares, as i intend to replace the cone springs on the moke.
I have looked at the manual that came with the tool, and it is totally inadequate. I was wondering if anyone could give me a simple step by step guide on how to use it to compress the Springs. I am particularly interested to know were the locking nut is supposed to go!!


Kindest Regards

Alastair.

[Mini_Magic]

Jack up car.

Take out tower nut.

Put compresser into hole until it goes all the way down.

At least nine turns on the thread before you start compressing it.

Twist compressor arm until it's too stiff to move.

Hope this helps.

[liirge]

Cheers for that i think im going to just go and do it today!! in like an hour!

[Mini_Magic]

That's what I said to myself, took me four days in the end!

I learned alot over that weekend!

[Big_Adam]

I'd suggest compressing the cone THEN putting the tool in.

As in, remove sub tower bolt, plonk in compressor, then jack car up.

[Mini_Magic]

I'd suggest compressing the cone THEN putting the tool in.

As in, remove sub tower bolt, plonk in compressor, then jack car up.

Your right, it's easier to compress the cone when you've got the weight of the car on it. Jack up the car once the cone is compressed.

[Bass Man]

I'd suggest compressing the cone THEN putting the tool in.

As in, remove sub tower bolt, plonk in compressor, then jack car up.

Your right, it's easier to compress the cone when you've got the weight of the car on it. Jack up the car once the cone is compressed.

Another little gem from the TMF faithfull, I'll remember this when my daughter eventually gets her hand in her pocket and purchased some cones!!

[Dan]

It's a 66 Moke.

There is no tower bolt to remove. There might be a grommet if you're lucky.

There is no lock nut, that nut is what is used to compress the cone. If you have got the compressor that uses a nut and not the better Sykes version with a large handle to turn you only have one threaded rod which is for metric threaded cones. Yours being a '66 car will have imperial cones if they have never been replaced. DON'T pull on an imperial cone with a metric compressor, it will go bang.

The tube sits on the crossmember (on, not inside. The end of the tube should have a foot of some kind to bear on), the threaded rod drops down the centre having removed the tower bolt or grommet depending on the age of the car. The rod must be the correct thread for the cone and engage by 9 FULL TURNS (as written above) with the cone. Then use the handle or nut to pull the rod through the tube by tightening it onto the tube top. LOTS of grease should be used on the top thread, nut and top of the tube but don't over lubricate the thread which is engaging with the cone as it could release itself when you are trying to slowly release the compression later.

[liirge]

Ok guys I'm just back, and ive had no luck WHAT SO OVER!!
the tool doesn't pick up a thread at all, there definitely Imperial, and i have the tool with that thread, and the metric thread.
the tool just turns and turns and does'nt do anything.
There were two bolts that were taken out, either side of the whole, and they held in place a plate. I removed the plate and then put the bolts back in (i was told u had to do this). i then turned the top handle of the tool clockwise and it never picks up a thread, well sometimes it does but then goes loose again, or when it picks up a thread it never goes in far enough to get a grip.

Any ideas??

[Mini_Magic]

i then turned the top handle of the tool clockwise and it never picks up a thread, well sometimes it does but then goes loose again, or when it picks up a thread it never goes in far enough to get a grip.

Sounds like the thread has been stripped, someone has probably put in a cone compressor and tried to compress the cone but not put the full nine turns on it first. You'll need to take out the suspension arm to get it out, again could be different on a Moke.

[liirge]

I thought u had to take the spring out, to release the trumpet thing, and that take the stress off allowing the arm to be removed?

[Mini_Magic]

That is correct but now you can't compress the cone as the thread is stripped. I believe the only other way to get it out is to remove the arm, not easy but it can be done.

[GraemeC]

If the springs are old and deformed you should be able to remove the top arm shaft and then the top arm to get them out. However - be careful!!! Even with old springs there can still be a lot of energy stored in them!!

The new springs will need you to use the compressor - although you can check the fit etc of the threaded part on the bench before you put them in the subframe.

[Mini_Magic]

If the springs are old and deformed you should be able to remove the top arm shaft and then the top arm to get them out. However - be careful!!! Even with old springs there can still be a lot of energy stored in them!!

What about if you have fitted a new cone and you need to get it out, but the thread's stripped?

[GraemeC]

Make sure you know what thread the new cones are and make sure the thread is good and clean and the compressor screws in OK before assembly. The write down whether they are metric or imperial in the front of your Haynes manual for reference for next time - that way you shouldn't bu66er the threads.

If on the original aluminium cast cones then you could break the cone up if needed or if usinf Hi-Los then if they are wound right in you might get the top arm off but you might also lose your fingers!

Actually it is possible to put new standard cones in with hi-los without a compressor, I've done it a few times, but I wouldn't recommend it! With Smootharides or red dot cones it might not be possible though as I think the rubber springs are taller on those.