44 replies to this topic

[dave20046]

[dave20046]

Now to get the upper suspension arm out I've got the two little 7/16ths bolts out and undone the nut at the front on top of the ball joint (thanks langers2k ) I just can't get the main bolt that it obviously pivots on out. Is there any sort of trick to it, or is mine just seized in like everything else on this car?!

[minimender]

Dont forget there is a nut at the back as well,
As you look at the pic - one big nut in between two little 7/16 ones which you can leave and one at the other end of the shaft to the right as you look at the pic and the ball joint one.
You will have to pull shaft out to get arm off.
looks knackered that joint mate, had lots of water getting in it

[dave20046]

Dont forget there is a nut at the back as well,
As you look at the pic - one big nut in between two little 7/16 ones which you can leave and one at the other end of the shaft to the right as you look at the pic and the ball joint one.
You will have to pull shaft out to get arm off.
looks knackered that joint mate, had lots of water getting in it

Yes I've loosened the nut at the front end of the car end of the shaft and removed the nut at the other side. I've sprayed it with lots of wd40 and jacked the disk up (to get some movement) and tried levering out but I gave up pretty easy as I wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing and not trying to force somehting out that shouldn't need it. Do you mean the hub balljoint looks shagged or old knuckle ball and cup type joint? Just the previous owner reckoned he did the ball hub joints at some point in his few years of tinkering but they look a bit rusty (although it could just have rusted from bein sat in his shed) to me rubber gaitor looks different (or missing lol) to ones i've seen. He also reckoned he fitted new back hubs (both seized) and front disks (partly seized and rusty) but you never know if he has done them and they've just rusted while its been sat or whether he lied.

[langers2k]

If you have got the two 7/16th bolts out and removed the nut at the other end of the pivot, it should be about ready to come out.

You need to slide the pivot towards the front of the car, you may be able to use the plate that the 7/16th bolts were attached to and get some leverage. Mine both slid out without a problem, but it all depends how well your car has been maintained. There is a chance that the pivots have rusted to the top arms but I don't know how common that is.

Once you slide the pivot out, the arm should then be easy enough to remove although it may take some twisting. If you haven't already, make sure you have separated the top arm from the hub. Far easier to move the arm around

The fun part is putting the arm back in once you have put the new cone in. I found the easiest way was:

Using one of the rubber seals, put the thinner washer/shim on the end towards the rear of the car (rubber should hold it).
Stretch the other rubber seal onto the other end of the arm.
Put the pivot back into the arm (only have it as far as the rear washer so it doesn't stick out).
Carefully twist and swear at the arm to get it back into position (put the front end in first, then the back in to position).
Slide the pivot in to the right place.
Put the other washer/shim on the front of the arm (will need wiggling as the hole is the same size as the washer).
Put the thrust plate on and attach it with the two 7/16th bolts.
Put the washer and nut on each end of the pivot and tighten everything up.
Flip the front rubber seal back into position.
Grease the nipple!

[andy69]

If you have got the two 7/16th bolts out and removed the nut at the other end of the pivot, it should be about ready to come out.

You need to slide the pivot towards the front of the car, you may be able to use the plate that the 7/16th bolts were attached to and get some leverage. Mine both slid out without a problem, but it all depends how well your car has been maintained. There is a chance that the pivots have rusted to the top arms but I don't know how common that is.

Once you slide the pivot out, the arm should then be easy enough to remove although it may take some twisting. If you haven't already, make sure you have separated the top arm from the hub. Far easier to move the arm around

The fun part is putting the arm back in once you have put the new cone in. I found the easiest way was:

Using one of the rubber seals, put the thinner washer/shim on the end towards the rear of the car (rubber should hold it).
Stretch the other rubber seal onto the other end of the arm.
Put the pivot back into the arm (only have it as far as the rear washer so it doesn't stick out).
Carefully twist and swear at the arm to get it back into position (put the front end in first, then the back in to position).
Slide the pivot in to the right place.
Put the other washer/shim on the front of the arm (will need wiggling as the hole is the same size as the washer).
Put the thrust plate on and attach it with the two 7/16th bolts.
Put the washer and nut on each end of the pivot and tighten everything up.
Flip the front rubber seal back into position.
Grease the nipple!

this is goin to be my next job to do the top arm bearings on my mini and you know what ....i can,t get the knuckle out of the trumpet, did try before xmas so i keep spraying wd40 down the subframe bolt hole to soak it. so im gonna save this thread and have a read through it when im ready to start or should i say when the weather will let me do it lol ,also how much are trumpets just in case i have to smash it out lol

andy

[dave20046]

If you have got the two 7/16th bolts out and removed the nut at the other end of the pivot, it should be about ready to come out.

You need to slide the pivot towards the front of the car, you may be able to use the plate that the 7/16th bolts were attached to and get some leverage. Mine both slid out without a problem, but it all depends how well your car has been maintained. There is a chance that the pivots have rusted to the top arms but I don't know how common that is.

Once you slide the pivot out, the arm should then be easy enough to remove although it may take some twisting. If you haven't already, make sure you have separated the top arm from the hub. Far easier to move the arm around

The fun part is putting the arm back in once you have put the new cone in. I found the easiest way was:

Using one of the rubber seals, put the thinner washer/shim on the end towards the rear of the car (rubber should hold it).
Stretch the other rubber seal onto the other end of the arm.
Put the pivot back into the arm (only have it as far as the rear washer so it doesn't stick out).
Carefully twist and swear at the arm to get it back into position (put the front end in first, then the back in to position).
Slide the pivot in to the right place.
Put the other washer/shim on the front of the arm (will need wiggling as the hole is the same size as the washer).
Put the thrust plate on and attach it with the two 7/16th bolts.
Put the washer and nut on each end of the pivot and tighten everything up.
Flip the front rubber seal back into position.
Grease the nipple!

this is goin to be my next job to do the top arm bearings on my mini and you know what ....i can,t get the knuckle out of the trumpet, did try before xmas so i keep spraying wd40 down the subframe bolt hole to soak it. so im gonna save this thread and have a read through it when im ready to start or should i say when the weather will let me do it lol ,also how much are trumpets just in case i have to smash it out lol

andy

Sounds simple but beleive me it isn't for me remove the top suspension arm as langers so helpfully described (ta) and then save yourself a lot of time and effort and apply heat to the cup and ballsocket melts the cup give the trumpet a tug and it'll come out then just scrape away the rest of the cup.

Langers: thanks for all your help above, it would seem the pivot bolt it seized in there I've tried knocking it with a hammer but the only movement I get is in the subby I've tried putting the nut on it and using a crowbar to lever it off but it just won't budge Cheers for your info on gettin the arm back in should come in handy if I ever get the top arm out

[andy69]

If you have got the two 7/16th bolts out and removed the nut at the other end of the pivot, it should be about ready to come out.

You need to slide the pivot towards the front of the car, you may be able to use the plate that the 7/16th bolts were attached to and get some leverage. Mine both slid out without a problem, but it all depends how well your car has been maintained. There is a chance that the pivots have rusted to the top arms but I don't know how common that is.

Once you slide the pivot out, the arm should then be easy enough to remove although it may take some twisting. If you haven't already, make sure you have separated the top arm from the hub. Far easier to move the arm around

The fun part is putting the arm back in once you have put the new cone in. I found the easiest way was:

Using one of the rubber seals, put the thinner washer/shim on the end towards the rear of the car (rubber should hold it).
Stretch the other rubber seal onto the other end of the arm.
Put the pivot back into the arm (only have it as far as the rear washer so it doesn't stick out).
Carefully twist and swear at the arm to get it back into position (put the front end in first, then the back in to position).
Slide the pivot in to the right place.
Put the other washer/shim on the front of the arm (will need wiggling as the hole is the same size as the washer).
Put the thrust plate on and attach it with the two 7/16th bolts.
Put the washer and nut on each end of the pivot and tighten everything up.
Flip the front rubber seal back into position.
Grease the nipple!

this is goin to be my next job to do the top arm bearings on my mini and you know what ....i can,t get the knuckle out of the trumpet, did try before xmas so i keep spraying wd40 down the subframe bolt hole to soak it. so im gonna save this thread and have a read through it when im ready to start or should i say when the weather will let me do it lol ,also how much are trumpets just in case i have to smash it out lol

andy

Sounds simple but beleive me it isn't for me remove the top suspension arm as langers so helpfully described (ta) and then save yourself a lot of time and effort and apply heat to the cup and ballsocket melts the cup give the trumpet a tug and it'll come out then just scrape away the rest of the cup.

Langers: thanks for all your help above, it would seem the pivot bolt it seized in there I've tried knocking it with a hammer but the only movement I get is in the subby I've tried putting the nut on it and using a crowbar to lever it off but it just won't budge Cheers for your info on gettin the arm back in should come in handy if I ever get the top arm out

hi mate if i can get the knuckle out of the arm will the trumpet be able to come out without cutting it if ya know what i mean then i can get it in the vice and try and remove it

ps langers has helped me as well thanks mate lol

[dave20046]

If you have got the two 7/16th bolts out and removed the nut at the other end of the pivot, it should be about ready to come out.

You need to slide the pivot towards the front of the car, you may be able to use the plate that the 7/16th bolts were attached to and get some leverage. Mine both slid out without a problem, but it all depends how well your car has been maintained. There is a chance that the pivots have rusted to the top arms but I don't know how common that is.

Once you slide the pivot out, the arm should then be easy enough to remove although it may take some twisting. If you haven't already, make sure you have separated the top arm from the hub. Far easier to move the arm around

The fun part is putting the arm back in once you have put the new cone in. I found the easiest way was:

Using one of the rubber seals, put the thinner washer/shim on the end towards the rear of the car (rubber should hold it).
Stretch the other rubber seal onto the other end of the arm.
Put the pivot back into the arm (only have it as far as the rear washer so it doesn't stick out).
Carefully twist and swear at the arm to get it back into position (put the front end in first, then the back in to position).
Slide the pivot in to the right place.
Put the other washer/shim on the front of the arm (will need wiggling as the hole is the same size as the washer).
Put the thrust plate on and attach it with the two 7/16th bolts.
Put the washer and nut on each end of the pivot and tighten everything up.
Flip the front rubber seal back into position.
Grease the nipple!

this is goin to be my next job to do the top arm bearings on my mini and you know what ....i can,t get the knuckle out of the trumpet, did try before xmas so i keep spraying wd40 down the subframe bolt hole to soak it. so im gonna save this thread and have a read through it when im ready to start or should i say when the weather will let me do it lol ,also how much are trumpets just in case i have to smash it out lol

andy

Sounds simple but beleive me it isn't for me remove the top suspension arm as langers so helpfully described (ta) and then save yourself a lot of time and effort and apply heat to the cup and ballsocket melts the cup give the trumpet a tug and it'll come out then just scrape away the rest of the cup.

Langers: thanks for all your help above, it would seem the pivot bolt it seized in there I've tried knocking it with a hammer but the only movement I get is in the subby I've tried putting the nut on it and using a crowbar to lever it off but it just won't budge Cheers for your info on gettin the arm back in should come in handy if I ever get the top arm out

hi mate if i can get the knuckle out of the arm will the trumpet be able to come out without cutting it if ya know what i mean then i can get it in the vice and try and remove it

ps langers has helped me as well thanks mate lol

You need a cone compression tool there's a good how to on changing trumpets on here. compress the cone then drop upper arm, melt the ball cup if its stiff and you should be able to wriggle the trumpet free. Then get a long screw driver and put it down your trumpet and strike with a hammer the ball end will fall out then put in your new knuckle and struggle it all back together. Best waiting for langers' second oppinion though as I've not made the best job of my trumpets

[andy69]

If you have got the two 7/16th bolts out and removed the nut at the other end of the pivot, it should be about ready to come out.

You need to slide the pivot towards the front of the car, you may be able to use the plate that the 7/16th bolts were attached to and get some leverage. Mine both slid out without a problem, but it all depends how well your car has been maintained. There is a chance that the pivots have rusted to the top arms but I don't know how common that is.

Once you slide the pivot out, the arm should then be easy enough to remove although it may take some twisting. If you haven't already, make sure you have separated the top arm from the hub. Far easier to move the arm around

The fun part is putting the arm back in once you have put the new cone in. I found the easiest way was:

Using one of the rubber seals, put the thinner washer/shim on the end towards the rear of the car (rubber should hold it).
Stretch the other rubber seal onto the other end of the arm.
Put the pivot back into the arm (only have it as far as the rear washer so it doesn't stick out).
Carefully twist and swear at the arm to get it back into position (put the front end in first, then the back in to position).
Slide the pivot in to the right place.
Put the other washer/shim on the front of the arm (will need wiggling as the hole is the same size as the washer).
Put the thrust plate on and attach it with the two 7/16th bolts.
Put the washer and nut on each end of the pivot and tighten everything up.
Flip the front rubber seal back into position.
Grease the nipple!

this is goin to be my next job to do the top arm bearings on my mini and you know what ....i can,t get the knuckle out of the trumpet, did try before xmas so i keep spraying wd40 down the subframe bolt hole to soak it. so im gonna save this thread and have a read through it when im ready to start or should i say when the weather will let me do it lol ,also how much are trumpets just in case i have to smash it out lol

andy

Sounds simple but beleive me it isn't for me remove the top suspension arm as langers so helpfully described (ta) and then save yourself a lot of time and effort and apply heat to the cup and ballsocket melts the cup give the trumpet a tug and it'll come out then just scrape away the rest of the cup.

Langers: thanks for all your help above, it would seem the pivot bolt it seized in there I've tried knocking it with a hammer but the only movement I get is in the subby I've tried putting the nut on it and using a crowbar to lever it off but it just won't budge Cheers for your info on gettin the arm back in should come in handy if I ever get the top arm out

hi mate if i can get the knuckle out of the arm will the trumpet be able to come out without cutting it if ya know what i mean then i can get it in the vice and try and remove it

ps langers has helped me as well thanks mate lol

You need a cone compression tool there's a good how to on changing trumpets on here. compress the cone then drop upper arm, melt the ball cup if its stiff and you should be able to wriggle the trumpet free. Then get a long screw driver and put it down your trumpet and strike with a hammer the ball end will fall out then put in your new knuckle and struggle it all back together. Best waiting for langers' second oppinion though as I've not made the best job of my trumpets

yeah i ve got the compressor and did start to doit but cause it was jammed had to stop but i will try what u sayand langers and will heat up plastic cup in top arm and free it i did buy new knuckles when i got the top arm kit .....thanks for you feed back its a great help.................Andy

[dave20046]

Not a problem . I'm waiting for langers to reappear to pick his brains on removing this seized shaft. Wondering if a blowtorch on it might help....

[dave20046]

By the way if you do a search on threads by 'Bluemini' he did a how to guide on this sort of area.

[langers2k]

Not a problem . I'm waiting for langers to reappear to pick his brains on removing this seized shaft. Wondering if a blowtorch on it might help....

Blowtorch might help, it can't to any harm as long as your not heating anything else up. I guess you could try taking off the grease nipple and filling the arm with WD40 or a better penetrating oil if you have it, and leaving it to soak through.

Have you managed to get the thrust plate off the side with the two 7/16th bolts? If you have you could try removing the washer/shim on that side so make sure its not in the way. Other than that I think its going to be a lot of swearing... You need to be able to hit the rear of the pivot really, but the bodywork is in the way. You can try and use a crowbar from that side, just keep an eye on the bodywork so you don't bend it.

Top arms aren't particularly cheap, so you don't want to damage it. I guess another option would be to grind/cut off the ends of the pivot, this way you can remove the arm and have more clearance to try and remove the remains of the pivot with a big hammer!

[dave20046]

Not a problem . I'm waiting for langers to reappear to pick his brains on removing this seized shaft. Wondering if a blowtorch on it might help....

Blowtorch might help, it can't to any harm as long as your not heating anything else up. I guess you could try taking off the grease nipple and filling the arm with WD40 or a better penetrating oil if you have it, and leaving it to soak through.

Have you managed to get the thrust plate off the side with the two 7/16th bolts? If you have you could try removing the washer/shim on that side so make sure its not in the way. Other than that I think its going to be a lot of swearing... You need to be able to hit the rear of the pivot really, but the bodywork is in the way. You can try and use a crowbar from that side, just keep an eye on the bodywork so you don't bend it.

Top arms aren't particularly cheap, so you don't want to damage it. I guess another option would be to grind/cut off the ends of the pivot, this way you can remove the arm and have more clearance to try and remove the remains of the pivot with a big hammer!

No luck .I didn't use the blowtorch as someone told me it would seize the bearing in the top arm but I've tried everything else including wd40ing down the grease nipplie in the top arm (thanks). But I've hatefully come to the decision that I've got to take my whole front subframe out (the one I've just spent ages completely remounting > ) and struggle with it with the subframe off.

[dave20046]

Whats the best way to go about removing the trumper? Try and remove the hubs then do the tower bolts>front mountings and back mountings?