40 replies to this topic

[Sprocket]

Did you ever fit ALL new mechanical parts as suggested? How did you get round the wear issue, extend the push rod?

[Purple Tom]

Matt, I had a similar problem when first putting my Vauxhall lump in, in that I couldn't get enough movement on the cable converted m/cyl to disengage the clutch fully.

The problem with mine was excessive wear on the pedal itself, I had quite a lot of play and movement where there should have been none. I had to re-engineer the clutch pedal - this might be something worth looking at on your car.

Don't forget that if you do try to put spacers on the rod into the slave you'll need to adjust the throw-out stop accordingly otherwise thats going to stop any further movement of the clutch mechanism. Also, you definitely have a pre-verto slave cylinder fitted don't you?

[The Matt]

Did you ever fit ALL new mechanical parts as suggested? How did you get round the wear issue, extend the push rod?

Yup, it's got a new plunger (CRB carrier, whatever you want to call it) new clutch lever (minispares HD type), new clevis pin in pushrod, new clevis pin in lever. I didn't lengthen the pushrod, however, it doesn't look worn at all and the clevis pin is a nice tight fit in the end of it.

Since fitting new everything that there is to fit, the return stop has had to be wound back in loads (liek 5mm or more), so much so that there's barely any tension on the return spring now. I have noticed tonight that there is a small amount of fluid in the pushrod end of the slave cylinder, so I am going to order a new one. I am also going to swap out the master cylinder and check the clutch pedal clevis pin as the pedal is still sitting below the brake pedal. If changing the hydraulics and sorting out any play in the pedal don't cure it, then I'm going to take the flywheel off again

Getting veeeery pee'd orf with it now!

[GraemeC]

I've never got my head fully round adjusting the throw out stop. Surely it is there to stop the clutch travelling too far and putting excess strain on the crank thrusts so adjusting it to suit a modified arm that can 'throw' further defeats having it in the first place?

[The Matt]

Actually, on the Minispares website the 'throw out stop adjustment' bit is wrong. I was reading through it today.

It says to depress clutch pedal, wind nut up to clutch cover, release pedal then wind out the flanged nut one flat, then lock in place!

EDIT: Link here

As for the way the throw out stop works, I dunno, it confuses me too Graeme!

Edited by The Matt, 04 February 2008 - 07:36 PM.

[mini93]

what clutch have you got? (probably missed in this thread already) when i was at southam mini and metro centre with my clutch problems they said with an AP clutch kit, AP do a particular release arm i was confuzzled by this but i took there word for it, i think they also said AP have there own specific release bearing but new style bearing and plunger fits also (as its what i have now)

[The Matt]

it's a borg and beck diaphragm IIRC, with a blob of orange paint on the spring. The clutch plate is a 'rally' one from minispares or minisport (can't remember which one as I bought it yonks ago).

[mini93]

in that case...ignore what i said doubt its related....if u want i could give you southams number? give em a ring tomorrow even by phone they might be able to help

[The Matt]

Yeah, it may come in useful at some point anyway to be honest.

PM it to me plizzzz.

[mini93]

ill put it up in here so people can see it aswell

01926 815681, southam mini & metro centre. ether rod or colin will answer i think

[The Matt]

Cheers David

[Sprocket]

throw out stop is to prevent the pedal hitting the floor but allowing the greatest pedal travel. When I set mine up, the pedal would hit the floor (no carpets fitted), at that point wind the nut up to the housing, release the pedal and then wind the nut another turn or two, that is what stops the pedal hitting the floor.

Throw out stop on the verto is to prevent over throw.

Just one other thing, is the thrust disc in the top of the clutch diaphragm/ cover in the right way round? the raised bit needs to face the thrust bearing.

Problemsa with leaky hydraulics can be determined by depressing the pedal and holding it there, if the clutch arm creeps back, the hydraulics are leaking.

That said, if you can spin the friction disc through the starter motor aperature with the clutch pedal depressed, my money is on the primary gear pinching up when its a bit warm. What clearance did you set, and did you grease the primary gear bearings?

[The Matt]

throw out stop is to prevent the pedal hitting the floor but allowing the greatest pedal travel. When I set mine up, the pedal would hit the floor (no carpets fitted), at that point wind the nut up to the housing, release the pedal and then wind the nut another turn or two, that is what stops the pedal hitting the floor.

Throw out stop on the verto is to prevent over throw.

Just one other thing, is the thrust disc in the top of the clutch diaphragm/ cover in the right way round? the raised bit needs to face the thrust bearing.

Problemsa with leaky hydraulics can be determined by depressing the pedal and holding it there, if the clutch arm creeps back, the hydraulics are leaking.

That said, if you can spin the friction disc through the starter motor aperature with the clutch pedal depressed, my money is on the primary gear pinching up when its a bit warm. What clearance did you set, and did you grease the primary gear bearings?

IIRC I set it to 4 thou in the end, I know I read up on it before setting it. I didn't grease the bearings though, I just coated the bush with a little oil as I fitted it to the crank tail.

[The Matt]

And, my pedal definitely hits the floor, it doesn't really start to feel like it's doing anything until it's about an inch away from the floor really.

[The Matt]

now then!!!

Bit more of an update.....

I'm stripping her right back at the moment. I've taken the pedals out and the clutch pedal had 1" of play at the end of the pedal. This was down to a combination of a worn bush, a worn pedal shaft, a knackered clevis and an oval shaped hole in the pedal where there should be a round one. I've also found that the MC is leaking a bit. So, she's getting a complete overhaul. New MC, new slave cylinder, new pedal (tried a second hand one tonight and it made a LOT of difference), second hand pedal shaft (got one with no wear in me tool box), a new clevis pin and some fapping R-clips instead of the little bleeding split pins that retain the pedal clevis pins! I'm even gonna fit new pedal rubbers instead of the rubbish Sparco pedal covers that are on there at the moment.

Only problem is, I'm gonna have to buy a new flywheel puller so I can get the old U/L one off to fit the new one! I've gotta do an inspection of the primary gear endfloat too

If a job's worth doing.................