Internal Gear Linkage
#16
Posted 18 January 2008 - 07:24 PM
#19
Posted 18 January 2008 - 10:15 PM
Its hard to explain jammy, but thats what i thought too till id actualy made it.... ive fixed it now. i only used one uj then further up the bar, i cut it, and welded it at an angle of about 150* im not quite sure why bluemini said it wouldnt work with two ujs..... its drying now, soo ill post pics tomo hopefully after get it fitted to the car!. but with trial fits the position of the gear knob's perfect!!!! its right up next to the steering wheel! (ive got a genuine kad short shifter by the way)
Dave
#20
Posted 18 January 2008 - 10:17 PM
#21
Posted 18 January 2008 - 11:05 PM
im not quite sure why bluemini said it wouldnt work with two ujs.....
I tried another version of it with 2 UJ's, but it didn't work so ignor the UJ nearest the gearstick housing in the pics.
#22
Posted 18 January 2008 - 11:12 PM
#23
Posted 18 January 2008 - 11:20 PM
Looking hot in Miniworld by the way Dave
#24
Posted 18 January 2008 - 11:27 PM
lol spank you very much bud
#25
Posted 18 January 2008 - 11:39 PM
No but it answered your previously wrong statement...... sorry but that quote doesnt asnwer my question.lol..
humm, yeah it prob would be possible to make it adjustable, but i shouldnt have a prob cutting/welding it to the right length, just wanted to know weather im surposed to be using the standard one....
Why not chop the u shaped bit off the standard steady bar that attaches to the back of the diff housing, then re-weld that to a suitable length of rod and tap a thread on the end.
#26
Posted 19 January 2008 - 02:18 AM
sorry dont quite understand what you mean. i just want to know if people have modified the standard steady, or just left it off. ive got solid subframe mounts and good cond engine steadys, with a ultimate engine steady, but the engines still guna move a bit.
Dave
#27
Posted 19 January 2008 - 08:11 AM
he might not see this topic as he doesn't get on here much
#28
Posted 20 January 2008 - 07:52 AM
The 2 uj method didn't work because while the rod was being pushed (going into 2nd and 4th) the uj's just moved and buckled resulted in there not being enough movement by the time it reached the rod that goes into the gearbox.
To those who like to doubt everything and try to stir it up, I'm not saying that the 2 uj method won't work, I'm just saying that from my experience it didn't work for me.
When I did mine I had nothing to go by, it was trial and error and took me a few attempts to get right, but if someone has a picture of the KAD one that they could post up so everyone can see how they do it, then maybe it will give people an idea on the best approach.
Edited by Bluemini, 20 January 2008 - 07:54 AM.
#29
Posted 20 January 2008 - 01:14 PM
The 2 uj method didn't work because while the rod was being pushed (going into 2nd and 4th) the uj's just moved and buckled resulted in there not being enough movement by the time it reached the rod that goes into the gearbox.
To those who like to doubt everything and try to stir it up, I'm not saying that the 2 uj method won't work, I'm just saying that from my experience it didn't work for me.
The 2x UJ did not work was becaus the UJs used were not concentric.
In the nicest possible way
Does it matter how you get it to work, as long as it works, but socket set UJs dont help any, as long as people are aware of that
The KAD website has already been linked to and from there you can see how the components go together
#30
Posted 20 January 2008 - 08:27 PM
Cheers Dave
Edited by Mini-Dave, 20 January 2008 - 08:31 PM.
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