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My Rust, How Shall I Go About It?


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#31 analogue_radio

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 09:05 AM

Just whatever you do please don't flipfront it
by the time you've spent all the money buying a front, the parts to fit it, the paint to paint it etc you could probably of saved enough to get a panel done

I dont care what anyone says flipfronts generally look pretty C**p on minis unless they're done very well..which isnt very often

it can be seen as a cheaper alternative but it also puts less value on the car and from past experience of doing it myself you're never happy with the end result

just be patient and do a panal at a time - save up a little a week no matter how small amount it all adds up - then get a professional to do it

the corner on my scuttle needed doing and it only cost £100 inc paint for a garage to do it and at least i know it's been done properly

good luck


I've been looking at prices for flip fronting and I no longer think it's an option, I'd rather replace the metal panels that need replacing on the front.

I've told Dad what I propose to do, so I'll leave him to think about it till after the event at Himley Hall, then I'll bring it up again.

In the mean time I'll get about the mini and see how badly the rust has gone through, it's raining now though >_<.

#32 analogue_radio

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 09:42 AM

Posted Image

:lol:>_<

#33 Angusdog

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 11:06 AM

Harsh reality. Someone's let that car rust beyond anything other than a full rebuild, and while you could replace 50% of the panels, fill and repaint, it's probably better to source a better shell or scrap it for parts. Bodywork is a big job, not something anyone can pick up and do a fabulous job without help, practice and motivation. You may have all three, and the funds to suit, but the reality is it's a car. There are no government grants for restoring old cars, and they still make new shells, so you're not depleting the nation's assets of another valuable vehicle. It is a shame the previous owner didn't take more care, but it happens all the time.

I've taken on two projects without appreciating the work required and subsequently scrapped them. One was a fairly rare Clubman van (not an Estate), but the panels are not available and they all needed replacing. I wasn't the first to give up on a project and I won't be the last.

Better luck next time.

#34 lrostoke

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 11:45 AM

Affraid I'd have to disagree with those last comments, whilst a new shell would be nice, if on a budget its not always a viable alternative..what are shells £3000 upwards ??
A keen amatuer can bring them back from the dead, panels are readily available for the saloons and if using pattern not to expensive

We went from this

Posted Image

Posted Image

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to this

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Total cost including car £1500


Only body work we'd previously done was wings and A panels / flitch panels on another mini

One thing I will add though sometimes it can be cheaper to walk away and buy another one...As long as you can find one thats solid and needs no work.
The one we did was brought purely because we enjoyed doing the front end on another mini and wanted a project, we set ourselves a goal of getting a solid mini on the road on a budget, I think we did it.

Edited by lrostoke, 23 April 2008 - 11:58 AM.


#35 analogue_radio

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 12:16 PM

Just been looking at panels on Mini spares and they didn't seem that expensive.. I know if I remove the wing I'll probably find something worse underneath, but a front right wing is £62 or something, I'll make a list of the panels that need replacing and gather some prices.

There is a local garage in my village that I think we're quite friendly with, I could see if I could either borrow/rent his welder.

Say if I was to remove the front right wing and scuttle, what would I be expecting to find/replace underneath?

#36 lrostoke

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 12:40 PM

Find the link I posted to our rebuild, you'll see pretty much what to expect.

As for panels try looking for non-gen (pattern parts), there are some who will tell you use genuine because they are supposed to fit better, but only genuine panel we used was on the boot hinge panel.

pattern wing nearly half the price http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=33103

#37 analogue_radio

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 12:43 PM

All of a sudden everything has become a lot more easier..

Right, well I'll keep fixing the small problems, petrol gauge, oil leak & reverse lights, take a look around Himley Hall at some prices & tools, and then go from there.

Thanks to everyone whose helped out >_< very much appreciated.

#38 analogue_radio

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 02:26 PM

Poked around with the screwdriver, actually just used my finger to push through the Scuttle >_<.

Posted Image

Is there anything I can do in the mean time to prevent the rust from further damage and to stop the water getting in?

#39 lrostoke

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 04:38 PM

You can buy rust treatments, but for how far gone it is, its panel replacing time..

When I was mentioning pattern panels earlier, for the scuttle go genuine, we brought pattern corner repairs for the bit you've prodded, they were the only pattern panel I wasn't impressed with.

#40 analogue_radio

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 04:46 PM

Cheers for the pointer mate :).

Just been out and showed Dad what I poked through, he said I could remove the wheel to access behind the rusted spot & put some mesh there.. It's becoming ridiculous now, I don't know what to do to convince him that he's wrong without sounding offensive.

His motive behind his reason is that he owned a Cortina when he was a lad and used the mesh and filler trick, said it looked brilliant.. and that I could use mesh here because it isn't a load bearing point.

Truth is I don't want to go anywhere near my mini with mesh and filler, even if I can't afford to weld and replace the panels at the moment, I'd rather wait and save up then do it properly.

#41 lrostoke

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 04:55 PM

The problem your going to have with mesh and filler, is that rust doesn't stop eating away, you have to cut it out, for how much you will need to cut out, it will be better to replace panels.

Also it will only hide whats underneath..

Under that scuttle in that corner is a strengthening plate which stops muck and rubbish getting up in there, but also gives some strength to that corner of the car. you will find its rotted.

#42 analogue_radio

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 05:01 PM

Can you buy strengthening plates? or are they fashioned out of a piece of metal?

What's the best yet reasonably priced welder I could use?

Found this one on Machine Mart,

http://www.machinema...o-90-mig-welder

Would this suit? Seems quite reasonably priced & gas canisters aren't that much, if I was looking at the right thing.

Edited by theIMAGE, 23 April 2008 - 05:09 PM.


#43 lrostoke

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 05:18 PM

yes you can buy the bit that goes in the corner, although you may find there will be bits you have to fashion repairs yourself

the corner bit that goes under there is the scuttle closing plate.

That welder looks fine for bodywork, you are normally working on the lower settings most of the time anyway so you won't need anything to industrial.

#44 analogue_radio

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 05:23 PM

Great, well when I next get paid I can look at buying that as well as some other things to get started!

Thanks for the help all, especially Irostoke :) expect plenty more questions when I get started buddy.

& nice work on your project, looks like a superb job.

#45 lrostoke

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 05:38 PM

No worries, don't take everything I say as gospel though, I've only done bodywork on 3 minis todate, no where near an expert, but I can pass on my experiences..
Like I said it does really help if you can get somebody to do the work with you, and like as been mentioned, practise loads with the welder before starting on the car..find metal of same sort of thickness.
The main thing is don't be scared to prod at the rust, there's no point trying to convince yourself a section will be ok.




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