60 replies to this topic

[OJM]

Tested the battery last night, although the tester I have is a needle and dial, rather than digital, so I can't get accurate readings from it.

This is in order of testing;

Key to off - 11.5V
Key to ign - 11.5V
Engine idling - 13V
Key to off - 12.5V
Key to ign - 12V
Engine idling & everything on - 12V to 13V (bouncing)
Engine off & everything on - 11V
Key to ign - 11.5V
Key to off - 11.5V

Then I charged the battery for about 3 hours, and retested;


Key to off - 12V
Key to ign - 12V
Engine idling - 13V
Key to off - 12.5V
Key to ign - 12V
Engine idling & everything on - 13V
Engine off & everything on - 11.5V
Key to ign - 11.5V
Key to off - 11.5V

Does anything jump out at anyone? Think I might invest in a digital tester, so I can get an accurate reading.

I was also hoping the charging might have sorted the rev counter and wiper issue, but nothing However, the alarm seems easier to arm - we don't usually arm it due to it being so difficult to disarm - having to walk round the car pressing the button for 5 mins!

[Widdowmaker]

I am a fairly new miny owner with an SPI... I seem to be having exactly the same issues as your self.

Spluttering on acceleration - cutting out - Running rich - engine very hot - rad boiling over - rev counter and speedo bouncing all over the place. I can only sympathise with your issues.

Took the car to a local garage on saturday - they looked at it till I went to collect it this morning - and they said they wernt capable of fixing such a car, as the issues baffled them.???? I can only admire there honesty.

My tactic in this case - is to book it in for a rolling road session and try an get a diagnostic test, to define an issue.

I have - replaced all Dizzy, leads plus - oil change - both front lines to the injection system. I will be changing the 4 point fuse box. I have found worn wiring to the bottom of the rad - which I think controls the senso or electric fan - not sure. My rad is very clogged soI am going to steam clean that this weekend.

I will let you know via this post if I any is solved.

(i need some friends who live close with mini knowledge..... ) )

[OJM]

Yeah, keep us updated on how you get on.

It might be worthwhile locating a garage that specialises in Minis, or ask around your local garages to see if you can find someone who's worked on them in the past - a bloke at my local HiQ garage taught himself mechanics on Minis, for example.

[Widdowmaker]

Yeah - thats the plan.

I actually live 4 miles from MiniSport World @ Padiham.

I have a 4x4 specialist who specialise in older cars mainly Land Rovers and Range Rovers, but hes 23 miles away. He loves minis tho - yet....... "cant git me ed around these injection thingies....."

Will let you know. )

Edited by Widdowmaker, 23 July 2008 - 11:50 AM.

[DaveRob]

Measuring the battry voltage with all turned on you should rev the engine up a bit to determine if the alternater is suspect..... to be honest your readings that you have already posted look a little low anyways.... Id have expected over 13 volts with it running..... report back.....

Rob

[OJM]

Cheers Rob - managed to borrow a digital multimeter, so here's my findings;

Key to off - 12.5V
Key to ign - 12.35V
Engine idling - 14.13V (after 1 minute...slow to get there)
Engine idling & everything on - 13.8V (bouncing a little)
Engine off & everything on - 11.83V

Engine revving & everything on - 13.7V (but bouncing around, up to 14V)

Edited by OJM, 24 July 2008 - 08:10 PM.

[Widdowmaker]

Well - Good news..... didnt need to find a garage.

Took the bonnet off Friday night. Took the K&N off, and started to nosey around.

Discovered the the person or persons who owned the car before was a bit of a cowboy with the modifications. When fitting the stage 1 kit - they have removed the the MAP sensor fuel trap, all the heating control system, justa blanking plate the hose should be on the head..... so this got me thinking..... I could not get the pipe off the bottom of the ECU (that leads to the bak of the i9njecotr hosing, but as I was poking around that area, I traced some wires back up to the fuse box. I started to poke around further and removed the fuse box- to find on the reverse side it had corroded beyond... well.... it was horrible.

I have replaced the fuse box, and shes fired up first time - gave a cough.... and is running a treat again, no miss fires, revs through the range , pulls like a train again..... The clocks no longer bounce around, so it seems my issues are sorted now, until next time.

I have booked in for a rolling road session on the 8/8.

I am so glad it wasnt sensor issue...... Gonna use the mini for work again tommorow.

Hope your issues are resovled soon.

[OJM]

Awesome, glad you've got it sorted! I'll have a poke around the fuse boxes, and see what they look like on the reverse.

Where abouts are you going for your rolling road session? I'm looking at booking one, so will be interested to hear any feedback!

[Widdowmaker]

Its MiniSport World in Padiham nr Burnley NE Lancashire.

Location Map

http://www.minisport...d-of-minis.html

Rolling Road Page with prices.

http://www.minisport...lling-road.html

Even if its to far for yourself - use the prices and whats offered for comparisom.

[OJM]

Unfortunately haven't had chance to check the fuse box yet, but took it to a local garage recently to get the wipers looked at, and mentioned the spluttering at the same time - £70 bill! Fixed wiring on wipers, and replaced HT leads - £25 labour! Bloody hell! Nevermind, at least the wipers are working *fingers crossed*

As suspected, the HT leads didn't make any difference to the spluttering.

[norwegianminiman]

i occasionally have problems like this; start engine, fine. drive a bit, fine. get halfway up the hill past my house, suddenly seems to go rich, loads of smoke out the back, no power, only thing to do is to stop (in the middle of the road...) and let it settle itself.

had a word with the guys at minisport while I was there, and apparently they know of the problem but haven't found a way to sort it

[OJM]

Do you find that your temp gauge plummets when it starts spluttering / after it's spluttered?

Noticed today that when it had a spluttering fit after about 5 mins of driving, the temp gauge had plummeted from the mid-range mark, to stone cold.

Also, found that it had trouble starting when I had had the alarm activated all night. Also another time when I had the stereo in when starting - took it out, and it started. Would a duff battery / alternator cause the spluttering when driving?

[norwegianminiman]

must say i haven't been paying attension to my temperature gauge while trying to sort these things out... will have a look next time

mine seems to do this after an alarmed night to...

[OJM]

Replaced the HT leads, dizzy cap and rotor recently, but still hasn't sorted it - not that I thought it would to be honest, but needed swapping anyway.

Could do with a spare battery to check if it's that or not. Anyone near the Loughborough / Nottingham area with one that I could borrow for a couple of days?

It doesn't seem to splutter as much anymore, but still doesn't it from time to time. Problem at the moment is when I go to start it up in the morning, it doesn't start straight away. About 5 tries makes it fire into life, but then dies. Another couple of goes and it stays running, splutters, but eventually gets idles through it.

[OJM]

Do you think it's worth buying a new battery? £73 from Halfords

http://www.halfords....tegoryrn_144262