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Bungles Cooper


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#106 jaydee

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 11:35 AM

one slight problem the ignition light and low oil pressure light are permanently on even with ignition switch off and the only way to stop the engine is to pull the coil HT lead off


(dunno if u already sorted)
You wired the lucas coil to the fuse box? i've got the same coil, this issue happened to me when connected the coil to the wrong fuse, went in short circuit.
just wired + to the upper fuse, and it worked fine.

Edited by jaydee, 23 February 2009 - 11:37 AM.


#107 Bungle

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 05:19 PM

not really had time to play yet

the charge and oil pressure lights do out when the engine is running

it think it's the ignition switch but will have a play

#108 Bungle

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Posted 24 February 2009 - 12:14 PM

had a little play

if i remove fuse 9 the lights go out

fuse 9 has a white wire going in and a green wire going out

the green wire feeds the ignition lights

the white wire should go back to the ignition switch

so it's still looking like the ignition switch is not switching and not my c0ck up :thumbsup:

i will keep fiddling

#109 GraemeC

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Posted 24 February 2009 - 03:57 PM

But if that is the case then the coil will also have a permanent 12V to it as the ignition switch would not be switching that off either. Stick a multimter on and see - if it is live you'll be getting a flat battery soon and the coil might burn out too.

#110 Bungle

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Posted 24 February 2009 - 06:04 PM

not with the battery negative not connected :)

#111 jaydee

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 09:31 AM

hey bungle
dunno if it can help, but thats where i wired the + lead of my lucas coil:
Posted Image

basically i've just checked for a point that provides live 12v only with the ignition switch turned on.
connected coil there and it worked...
cheers

Edited by jaydee, 25 February 2009 - 09:32 AM.


#112 Bungle

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 05:02 PM

i think the lack of ignition switching is my problem and not wiring

#113 GraemeC

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Posted 26 February 2009 - 09:29 AM

Suppose if you unplug the ignition switch/barrel it will prove it. Even more so if you then stick your multimeter on the wires coming from the switch and check for continuity at the different switch positions.

#114 Ethel

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Posted 26 February 2009 - 10:06 AM

You have a permanent supply for some reason. The lights go out because of oil pressure and the alternator producing enough zaps to cancel out the zaps going through the iggy bulb. Your indicators ought to also work if it's the iggy switch. Shouldn't be hard to find an ignition dependent supply with a circuit tester.

#115 Bungle

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Posted 26 February 2009 - 04:25 PM

i will have a fiddle this weekend

#116 Bungle

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Posted 28 February 2009 - 12:55 PM

:D it would seem i got 2 wires mixed up on the fuse box :-

#117 crocks

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Posted 28 February 2009 - 12:59 PM

:D it would seem i got 2 wires mixed up on the fuse box :angel:


:- was going to ask for help on my wiring but.........

#118 miniboo

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Posted 28 February 2009 - 03:50 PM

:D it would seem i got 2 wires mixed up on the fuse box :-


Now Bungle are you goiong to tell everyone what your day job is LOL

#119 Bungle

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Posted 28 February 2009 - 09:05 PM

I'm a brain surgeon :yinyang:

#120 Bungle

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Posted 28 February 2009 - 09:07 PM

engine all working, bonnet and grill back on

just need to refit the dash and a small hole on the sill to patch then it's MOT time

big thanks to Crocks :yinyang:




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