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Bungles Cooper


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#91 mini mark

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Posted 08 February 2009 - 05:27 PM

wireing looks nice and neat now

#92 Bungle

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Posted 08 February 2009 - 06:07 PM

*takes phone off the hook* >_<


funny you should say that

i did wonder how you were fixed for time on the 21st and if you want to stay the weekend we are off slot car racing on the sunday you could tag along

#93 crocks

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Posted 08 February 2009 - 06:40 PM

*takes phone off the hook* >_<


funny you should say that

i did wonder how you were fixed for time on the 21st and if you want to stay the weekend we are off slot car racing on the sunday you could tag along


yep that should be fine mate

#94 Bungle

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Posted 08 February 2009 - 07:35 PM

i will MSN or ring you when i get a quiet moment

#95 karl & his cooper

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 10:40 PM

What were your fuse values in the end?!

#96 Bungle

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 10:48 PM

i have asked on so many forums and everyone says something different

so at the moment i have just replaced like for like

#97 karl & his cooper

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 11:29 PM

i have asked on so many forums and everyone says something different

so at the moment i have just replaced like for like


Any problems yet?

#98 Bungle

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 11:34 PM

no apart from the engine wont start

although with it sitting on the floor next to the car it might not help

#99 GraemeC

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 10:17 AM

The glass fuses are marked with the peak current rating rather than their continuous rating. Blade fused are marked with their continuous rating.

Using this info look at the following page to cross reference from one to the other. You will see that a 35A glass fuse is about equal to a 15A blade fuse (erring on the side of caution initially - you may find a 20A blade is needed).
http://www.vehicle-w...fuses/fuses.php

#100 Bungle

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 07:35 PM

Crocks came round today so some more progress

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one slight problem the ignition light and low oil pressure light are permanently on even with ignition switch off and the only way to stop the engine is to pull the coil HT lead off

but the engine runs and is roughly timed and fuelled

brakes tomorrow

#101 Bungle

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Posted 22 February 2009 - 07:36 PM

dame brake pipe's leaking (join under rad)

it would of been easy to replace if the engine wasn't fitted :D

still got my charge and low oil pressure lights on with ignition off :D :lol:

*shouts* crocks :lol:

#102 Purple Tom

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Posted 22 February 2009 - 07:45 PM

Bungle, do the charge and oil pressure lights go out when the engine is started? It just sounds like you've got a permanent live going to the instruments rather than a switched ignition 12V live - could it be something thats been crossed when you did the modifications to the fusebox?

Also, there *should* be a little access hole in the inner wing on the N/S that allows you to tighten up that brake pipe union, it might just need nipping up?

#103 GraemeC

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 09:36 AM

Does pulling the LT wires of the coil still leave the warning lights on then?

#104 crocks

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 10:34 AM

Also, there *should* be a little access hole in the inner wing on the N/S that allows you to tighten up that brake pipe union, it might just need nipping up?


its tight already so looks like a new end and union is needed, im now moving to live with bungle as hes personal mechanic :P
the only problem is i act as a e-number for william :D

#105 daemonchild

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 10:45 AM

but the engine runs and is roughly timed and fuelled

brakes tomorrow


Looks very very nice mate!




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