41 replies to this topic

[roofless]

I did as you have, had real problems getting a decent pedal, took it to a grown up who immediately put them as you see in the photos and they now work superb.

dunno what else to say - I'm no expert, but they work on roofless like that.

[nicksuth]

I've PM'd Jammy Basturd seing as he's the resident expert on brakes!!!

As per his posts in FAQ section "The low down on brakes" - http://www.theminifo...showtopic=70202

[luke6040]

sounds like a plan lol. Keep us posted on how you get on.

[nicksuth]

Visited the Mini ERA Turbo Website where there are some microfiche parst lists/diagrams and found the brake caliper (see attached) which definately shows the single bleed nipple at the top.



Website for anyone interested is

- http://www.eraturbo.co.uk/index.htm

and relevant pages

- http://www.eraturbo..../microfiche.htm

How the hell did we manage before the Tinternet came along????????????????????

[nicksuth]

Okay, JB has now responded reagrding the calipers and which way up the nipples go.........

Bleed nipple always goes to the top. The air bubbles rise in the fluid, so if you have the nipples at the bottom then there's a high chance of getting air pockets.

............... sorry Roofless but it looks like yours are upside down, however, if they're working fine and bleeding is no problem then I guess why change them back?

Personally I think ALL Nipples should point up on whatever equipment oooh naughtey!!!

[Jammy]

I wouldn't really claim to be an expert on brakes, but I do know the bleed nipple always goes to the top.

However, in Roofless' case, if it ain't broke, why fix it!

[minicooper1.3i]

Interesting thread people! My brother fitted the Mini Spare conversion kit to his '85 Mayfair and I know he had a whole load of grief getting them bled properly.

On a similar note, does anyone know where I could get a overhaul kit for a pair of MG Metro calipers? I've been offered a pair but they need a really good clean and an overhaul of seals and pistons for good measure.

Cheers!

[Ethel]

Minispares, they do stainless pistons as well just remember you'll need 8 of 'em .


I'm really puzzled as to how someone managed to bleed roofless's brakes. I had 2 same side S calipers on a car for years & the only way to bleed it was unbolt the caliper and turn it the right way up. The problem with calipers is filling the outer cylinder with fluid through the same passage the air escapes through. Push the outer piston in to the caliper to expel the air in it so the air in the line can only go through the bleed screw.

[nicksuth]

Okay, back from the Friday night session at the pub with the lads....................

Will get to grips with bleeding the 4 pots tomorrow and get back to you with the results (incl. photos).

This ain't as straight forward as any of the previous posts suggest so hopefully I can give you a full run down on what tp do?

I still can't get any my head around fitting smaller rear wheel cylinders to accommodate the 4 pots?, surely there’s some other adjustment to the system that can be done to maintain full stopping power at the rear (bias valve front/rear)?

[nicksuth]

Okay, I never got around to it the next morning as I promised, been on 2 weeks hols to Gran Canaria since so have managed to clear my mind of all the frustration from previous attempts!!! Here's a report from today's SUCCESSFUL attempt……………

Right, now I know I have the callipers on the correct sides with pipes to the connections in the correct order (thanks JB) I can get to do a full bleed (brake fluid and a little blood!!!)

Pictures posted of final set up.





Went back to basics with the bleed and used the GUNSON EASI-BLEED KIT (what a great tool!!) and bled through about 2 litres of fluid. Not sure what the system holds (I would guess about a litre, max.) but just kept bleeding until fluid coming out was not only “bubble free” but clear as well. Bleeding the front callipers as recommended 2 x middle nipples at the same time (twin tubes and Y piece) and then the top nipple.

The EASI-BLEED is a definite recommendation for anyone trying to do it solo, it gives a constant fluid pressure while you just watch the fluid coming out, every last bubble and piece of dirt etc.

Needless to say, the brakes are brilliant and the full bleed appears to have cleared any (anticipated) front/back locking-up problems = stamp on the brakes and a four wheels lock up, gentle>hard pressure brings car to a quick stop with no rear locking. Ran it through the local country lanes once I had satisfied myself that every worked as it should and even after getting the pads/discs very hot their was very little fade at all (certainly better than the standard 8.4” Cooper S set up).

Outcome = successful and recommended conversion.
Top Tip = take your time and bleed the full system (front and back).
Best Tool = GUNSON EASI-BLEED.

Extra Note = Don't put too much effort into painting your calipers, once you've covered them in brake fluid you will be repainting them anyway (brake fluid = paint stripper ).

Edited by nicksuth, 02 August 2008 - 10:02 PM.

[ycming]

Just as we are on the topic of the bleeding the brakes.

What are people's opinions or experience with the following tools ?

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks
Ming

[nicksuth]

They are alright as long as you can see the nipple/pipe/bottle from the drivers seat (very unlikely) and you are not pumping fluid everywhere when the pipe pops off???

Better to invest in a Gunson Eezi Bleed Kit, you don't need to use the brake pedal at all then.

http://www.gunson.co...em=1821&cat=674

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...86.c0.m14.l1318