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Malaysian-Manufactured 1971 Austin Mini 1000

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#1 scudracer

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Posted 27 December 2014 - 01:43 AM

I acquired this car a couple of years ago from a friend. A 1971 Mini 1000 assembled at Associated Motor Industries of Malaysia (A wholly owned subsidiary of Wearnes Brothers Ltd.). He had it restored years ago but the bootfloor was completely rusty. It came with a 998cc automatic. It was a lot of fun driving it to class on weekends. The roads were clear in the morning and I could hit 140 km/h. I decided that this was the most FUN car I had ever owned and was determined to get it restored. In 2012 I had the floorboards, bootfloor welded. The trunk lid and doors were really bad so reasonably good Rover units were fitted.

 

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Later, a Rover hood was fitted as well. The Rover doors had impact bars. Extra weight but much safer. My colleague got t-boned in his Honda Jazz by a motorcycle and the B-pillar moved in. I decided the safety was worth the additional weight. On the 9th June 2012 I was desperately getting so-called 'repairs' (a body & paint shop recommended by my brother that did shoddy work on a friend's Aston-Martin DB6!).

 

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After 2 weeks worth of corrective work - closure gap adjustment, window, gutter, new side sills (British Motor Heritage), new cross-member (Mini Spares UK), scuttle, etc. After all that, it was ready for paint!

 

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I found this in a shop and thought it would be nice to keep.

 

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Wood & Pickett adjustable heavy duty tie bars. Also new old stock, from the same shop.

 

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199654_10151175547190935_671233340_n.jpgBritish steel which hasn't seen the light of day since it was assembled at Associated Motor Industries (AMI) in Shah Alam back in 1971. AMI was formed by Borneo Motors, Wearne Brothers and British Motor Corporation (BMC) in 1966 to assemble BMC vehicles. By 1967 Borneo Motors dropped BMC brands Austin, MG, Morris, Riley and Wolseley for Toyota. Federated Motors, part of the Wearnes Group, quickly took up those agencies. Source: Malayan Motoring History by Eli Solomon, 2006. If you like classics and classic racing cars, check out his page for REWIND magazine - https://www.facebook...200182506688594Picture, body and paint work by Unique Car Spray Centre.

 

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Couldn't resist adding this pic as production methods at AMI Shah Alam in Malaysia would have been similar. Associated Motor Industries Ltd. (AMI) plant at the Jurong Industrial Estate, Singapore was to cost $6 million and span 17 ½-acres. The plant was to produce 11 car models and around 3,000 cars a year. At its peak AMI employed 500 people but closed down in 1975. This photo shows a locally-assemble Mini on the production line. The AMI plant also assembled Renault, Chevrolet, Vauxhall and a range of Austin-Morris cars. This is Austin Mini Countryman no.7 in production at the AMI plant in Jurong, circa 1967/68. Seven members of the Singapore Motor Vehicles Assemblers Association had applied for licences to assemble cars in Singapore when the deadline closed on 30th August 1966. The Singapore government announced the results of applications to assemble cars and commercial vehicles in Singapore on Tuesday 10th January 1967. Source: https://www.facebook...200182506688594

 

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Weird right? GN37 Almond Green on HB Body HYD resin anti-chip coating. In hindsight I should have splurged on BMH floor panels. Unfortunately shipping would have been extremely costly as import duty is 30% on top of CIF, and then there's 10% sales tax on the sum total.

 

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BMW MINI 850 Pepper White is a VERY GOOD replacement for WT3 Old English White, IMHO. It's BMW's version and I like it a lot!

 

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HB Body 900 Cavity Wax. It's Greek! God bless Issigonis.

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Edited by scudracer, 03 January 2015 - 03:59 AM.


#2 scudracer

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Posted 29 December 2014 - 02:23 AM

Here are some parts I'll be fitting.

 

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Stack meters, centre pod with Stack tachometer.

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KAD 8.4" 4-pot billet alloy calipers (custom-anodised black) with vented & grooved brake discs and Mintex M1144 "Road Compound" brake pads. The calipers are CNC machined from HE30 (6082) extruded billets, which has improved the caliper body stiffness over KAD's previous sand cast caliper. Hard anodised alloy pistons are fitted with dust seals, fluid feed from a single 3/8UNF fluid port (same as standard Mini), Stainless steel bolts, bleed screws and split pins are used throughout. The benefit of the Mintex M1144 brake pad is as the temperature of the brake system starts to increase, the Mintex M1144 brake pad will remain stable and consistent through to 450 deg. C where a standard brake pad material will fade.

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Mini Sport Superfins. Thermal conductivity of aluminium vs cast iron: 136 vs 46.33. Cast iron soaks up heat slower and hangs on to it longer, affecting braking performance.

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New wiring loom from Minispares.

 

615888_10151082914235935_1624955668_o.jpParts from Smiffy's Bits.

 

329445_10151091830775935_183462549_o.jpgCooper S Right Hand Tank. A new perfect fit and shape tank from Mini Spares. No unsightly "stretch" marks as seen on other tanks that are available. Approx 5.5 gallons (25 litres). Fitting kit is complete with retaining straps, support brackets that mount to the rear seat back and boot floor, inter-tank metal fuel line and braided fuel hose.

458364_10150749349095935_504831769_o.jpgManiflow LM004SIIR LCB Stage 2 in 304 stainless steel from Ian Hargreaves Avr Classics. Maniflow has improved the design and performance of their highly successful LCB in conjunction with top mini racing engineers by creating a reverse cone megaphone setup similar to the race version but in a road configuration, thus creating more BHP but more importantly a much improved torque and power curve. This has been done by enlarging and shaping the middle pipe which creates a type of vortex, simulating a pulsing effect similar to the outside two pipes and on the exhaust system, by using a reverse cone megaphone (RCM) to create similar back pressures. The common stainless steel Maniflow LCB encountered is 409 stainless steel. It's softer and you can't polish it. 304 stainless steel is the top grade. It's harder and can be polished to a mirror finish if you want to. Is it common to find LM004SIIRs made in 304 stainless steel?

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Maniflow twin box side exit system in 304 stainless steel from AVR! Flows a little better than RC40 (David Vizard test) and is more robust (gussets).

 

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Titanium hand brake clevis pins with stainless washers and split pins, titanium alternator bracket and titanium clutch arm pushrod kit (Ti pushrod with top + bottom clevis pins) from Titan Classics.

 

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From from "AVONBAR RACING"Ian Hargreaves Avr Classics (AVR Classics http://www.avrclassics.co.uk/)

Twin 1.5" HS4 SUs set up with blue (AUC4587) dashpot springs and AAA needles

- Maniflow twin steel 1 1/2" SU (LI49) inlet manifold
- Piper billet 285 scatter pattern cam
- Piper lifters and springs
- Facet Silver Top competition fuel pump
- Malpassi Filter King fuel pressure regulator/filter
- Magnecor KV85 competition 8.5mm ignition cables

 

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KAD quickshifter, custom-anodised black (by KAD). I wanted it to look OE, so it had to be black.

 

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"The best 1.3 roller rocker assembly on the market" according to MED.

- Fully assembled with alloy rocker spacers and alloy end washers with split pins fitted.
- Rocker shaft is up-rated from standard 14mm to 17mm diameter to give a greater surface area contact between the shaft and the rocker arm.
- Rocker arm is CNC machined from aerospace 7075 alloy and anodised red.
- Rocker posts are also made from a high quality steel and chemically black coated.
- Larger 3/8 UNF adjusters along with lightweight aircraft specification 'K' lock nuts are fitted.

 

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Keeping cool under pressure - C-ARA4442 performance 2-core radiator with DuPont™ Kevlar®-reinforced top and bottom hoses.

 

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Bias barrel slickshift from Minispares.


Edited by scudracer, 31 December 2014 - 02:46 AM.


#3 scudracer

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Posted 29 December 2014 - 06:20 PM

10897049_10152850915585935_3178022784743Today I managed to get the subframe in. Uses a lot of masking tape as I don't want to scratch the body. Tomorrow - rear subframe!  :D



#4 scudracer

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 09:13 PM

10885441_10152853266275935_1133378344581Front subframe is temporarily in, just to get the car back home. Next - rear subframe. What do you think of the GN37 Almond Green and WT3 Old English White combo? Actually the roof is BMW MINI 850 Pepper White, which is an easy way to get a good WT3 these days as the 'recipe' for WT3 didn't turn out right at first.


Edited by scudracer, 30 December 2014 - 10:24 PM.


#5 Vinay-RS

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 10:15 PM

Looks like a fun build. The paintwork looks lovely. Just wondering, would it not have made sense to powdercoat the subframes before refitting them, since you are going for a complete rebuild? 



#6 scudracer

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 10:24 PM

Good question. All my friends have been asking me the same thing on Facebook. Actually I'm fitting the subframes so I can roll the body onto a tow vehicle to get the car back home. Then the subframes come out again, get modded and powdercoated, then go back again. New wheels and tyres too, of course.



#7 Petrol

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 11:05 PM

WOW, nice build and spec.

 

Personally I'm not a fan of powdercoating for a number of reasons but if handling is a priority, it can lead to flexture between the subframe and shell. I posted more info on powdercoating here, post #780

 

http://www.theminifo...rebuild/page-52

 

Pete



#8 Vinay-RS

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 11:05 PM

That is good to hear, after all that hard work to get the bodywork looking so nice, it would be a shame if the subframes didn't get a refurb as well.

What wheels are you going to be getting?

 

More of a general question, what is the mini scene like in Malaysia, in terms of clubs, meets and number of cars? During what period of time were minis assembled over there and what models were produced and sold? Were there any models that were unique to the Malaysian market?



#9 scudracer

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 11:23 PM

Thanks Pete. Good advice. I saw a good job done on a subframe for a Mini pickup somewhere on this forum. POR-15 paint. No powdercoat then. Will research. For the Malaysian market most cars were badged Austin. There are some unique rear emblems. I think I've got one of them which says AUSTIN MINI 1000. Most Malaysians don't like em because they prefer the UK badges which they deem to be 'original'. The Aussie-built Minis were a lot more interesting. Mk1 style doors with quarter lights. The Mini scene here is quite interesting. I was a member of SMOC https://www.facebook...miniownersclub/ in the late 90s when I had my first Mini, a rotten locally assembled '75 Austin Mini 1000. Not sure about production dates but I think it would be fair to say from the late 60s 68/69 to the late 70s. I have to do more research but Eli Solomon in Singapore would know more. He's written a book published by Marshall Cavendish titled "Snakes & Devils" on the Singapore and Johor Grand Prix. Minis raced against Abarth 600s, etc. back in the 60s I think.


Edited by scudracer, 30 December 2014 - 11:25 PM.


#10 scudracer

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Posted 31 December 2014 - 09:17 AM

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Just got the rear subframe in (OMG! It's SO fiddly) on the very last day of 2014!!! Never done it before. Lucky my brother helped. Some of the captive nuts in the heelboard are stripped.  :( How do I get them fixed? :ph34r:


Edited by scudracer, 31 December 2014 - 09:17 AM.


#11 scudracer

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Posted 03 January 2015 - 03:42 AM

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I'm going to fit these forged aluminium "Cooper Car Co." style 12x5JJs. JWL requires a higher safety factor (more load) for cast wheels (2.0) vs. forged (1.5). This is probably why a properly designed cast wheel can be just as strong/durable as a forged wheel but of course the cast wheel may be heavier due to more material used.

 



#12 Vinay-RS

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Posted 03 January 2015 - 08:35 AM

Nice wheels, they are going to look great on the car.



#13 scudracer

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Posted 04 January 2015 - 03:18 AM

In hindsight I should have purchased and welded on P/N 24A1918 (bonnet platform reinforcement panel for cars fitted with oil coolers) prior to painting. Just spot welds right? I hope it can be fitted without too much damage to the paintjob.



#14 scudracer

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 04:39 AM

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Front subframe fasteners from Smiffy's. First new parts for 2015!



#15 Jared Mk3

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 01:04 PM

I really like your choice in wheels  :-)







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