Sooo... if anyone followed my last thread, you would know that I've been having carb troubles. It all started one day when I decided that my K&N pod filter was too noisy and decided that I'd go back to the airbox with a standard paper filter.
It took a lot of work and some forcing but I eventually got the airbox on properly with both bolts screwed in. Unfortunately from that point my engine troubles started. After changing the air filter the engine sputtered to life but couldn't hold its idle rpm for more than a few seconds before dying. Flooring the pedal produced a very lagged response, almost as if the engine simply was not getting the fuel it needed. Messing with the air fuel mixture ratio only made things worse.
Noticed that fuel was leaking from the carb (which previously never happened) so I decided to go for a full carb rebuild. Fast forward a few weeks, carb was rebuilt following haynes manual instructions to a T, but engine still couldn't start and fuel was still leaking from an inlet pipe (see my last thread for details).
Now i need to wait 24 hours for the threadlocker blue to fully cure and then I will reinstall it and try to start my engine. Here's what I plan to try
Replace spark plugs (even though they are good)
Spray some carb cleaner into all 4 cylinders to act as a engine starter fluid.
Here's what I've checked so far
- good sparks from all 4 spark plugs
- fuel is flowing from the fuel pump
- Valve tappet clearances have been set as per the haynes manual to 12 thou.
What else should I be checking for? Earlier when i tried starting it just felt like the engine was not getting the fuel as the fuel would leak from the inlet hose, though the float bowl still had fuel in it. I tested blowing with my mouth for both the float needle fully open and fully closed, and it seemed like the float needle (new carbon tipped one) was sticking closed. Could that be a problem, or does it only free itself with higher pressure?