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Foers Mini Nomad On A Q Plate Needs Loom Year Identified.please

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#1 MisterBridger1960

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Posted 04 July 2018 - 09:06 PM

Hi folks,

           An update on my NOMAD loom problems. after a lot of hard work, still cant be sure of year of loom. I removed all the added crappy wiring. 2 relays 4 inline fuses and audio, speaker and spotlight wires. have finally got back to basic loom.

I have a 12 pin block connector that appears to be designed for the 2 pod instrument cluster . PINS no 7 and 9 have no connection. does this help with guessing year of loom??????

A friend from this forum has ID the temp sensor wire, coil, dizzy, and starter relay wires. also  rear loom ID and lighting loom tidied but this will be moved away from the traditional location, due to it being too hostile

in bad winter conditions.rear fogs and reverse lights will be LED. trying to source some good but cheap lights, if there is such a thing. Opted for a 075 Halfords Battery.

 

 

 

i have been told that the car had a central speedo when the previous owner bought it. going to make my own dash out of MDF or ply and cover with fake leather. want to mount the 90 mph black speedo in the center along with the usual dials each side. my speedo has an inbuilt fuel gauge so was wondering which 2 gauges i should fit. will also be fitting amp,volt and clock.

 

As i run a Heavy TX from mobile, i intend to fit another aux battery in a wooden box built in on the bed. This will be charged with a 12.8 Voltage sensitive relay.

 

     I guess that the usual fogs and or spots will be fitted at a later date. I have read up on the conversion loom for the change from pod cluster to central speedo. not looking forward to it.anybody got any tips????

Have a good friend who is going to look through a lot of mini spares, to supply wiper motor and connected bits, heater and controls, and visors.

 

my list of new parts needed

 

wiper stalk and switch

indicator stalk and switch

the 5 dash switches plus fog and cut out/off switch

rear view mirror painted type.

catches for the sliding windows. thought about fitting land rover ones, Has anybody tried this. how good or bad are the dedicated plastic mini ones??

washer bottle and pump motor.

plastic trailer wheel arches.

 

any help with any of the above will make me a happy chappy.

 

TTFN

 

Stu and the 2 cats.

 

 

 



#2 cal844

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Posted 04 July 2018 - 09:32 PM

Can you post wire colours for the coil connections please?

Is it an inertia or pre engaged starter?

As for the window catches and draught excluder you can buy them from minispares or somerford mini

I bought mine from eBay, 4 for £23+ post they secure with 3 scews

Edited by cal844, 04 July 2018 - 09:33 PM.


#3 MisterBridger1960

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Posted 04 July 2018 - 11:51 PM

Hi Cal844,

                Was told by my mini mad friend who helped id the parts of the loom, that the starter was a later "BETTER" starter motor and i could do away with the starter relay/ solenoid that had a bracket for the inner os wing. i tried to count the terminals on it but wasn't sure what they classed as 3/4 terminals. it has/had 2 large nut terminals, 1 each side of a terminal that seemed to be covered in  a small black plastic dome.

 

he explained very very quickly where the brown from ignition came in and activated the relay to provide power to original starter. there were at least 3 other tapped wires off the thick brown wire. I'm guessing the thick brown wire was about the same thickness as the 1 off the alternator. say 5-7mm diameter including sleeve. My friend said they were tapped as a supply for the relays etc mentioned in this post. He cut off all the wires and said he would reroute loom because the alternator bit of the loom was towards the end, along with the original wires to the loom.this solenoid had a thick red cable that would have gone to the old/older version of the starter motor. he said that when we put the battery in the engine bay, the positive will go direct to the new starter motor.he was so fast at explaining things that i had to ask him to slow down and repeat some of what he said. i was asking loads of questions while trying to bank away the answers to the ones just asked.man he was quick with those diag cutters.

      he pointed to a white wire from this section of loom and said this goes to the terminal on the coil. cant remember if it had a black trace on it. i then said about seeing 2 wires out of dizzy and not being able to match it with any diagrams. he replied you wont, the pink redish wire is from the electronic ignition i fitted. the other wire possibly black goes to coil along with this white one.i was trying to keep up with him as he started to snip wires and unwound an added taped section in the loom. we were able to get the loom back to a dirty grey colour tape. slightly shiny.

 

i then mentioned about the red and green wires already on the coil. he said that is just temporary. so i am guessing 1 black wire from dizzy to coil neg and 1 white possibly with black or brown tracer to coil plus.think he said something about white came to or from alternator block connector. cant check as car is on my friends drive. alt has 2 large spade connectors and 1 slightly smaller 1.

 

wiper arm is on the right indi stalk is on the left with M/Beam flash ignition key on column on right shroud in box of bits.need to get things right before i fit the central speedo conversion loom. think I'm getting there, but don't want to rely too hard on my mini friend as am trying to learn all over again what i knew of my own mini 12 years ago. although i did know all the bits as i had owned it for 7 years.

'

hope the above helps with any conclusions. i don't know if the 998 was the original engine or when the kit was built.

 

Thanks Stu



#4 Itsaminithing

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 12:35 AM

You might like to join a local Mini club http://www.tvmc.org/  there might be someone there who knows a bit about Nomads.... Ah that will be me then!

J A Foers Engineering Gateway Industrial Estate Rotherham 1977-2000. If i remember correctly there were 166 Nomads produced (in either 8 or poss 6 different styles - high door sills like a moke, low door sills for easier access, models with door frames etc).

Foers did assemble some of the cars but the majority were home-built kits. When the kits were being produced it was possible back then to build them with the parts of a donor Mini & re-register the car as a Nomad & retain the original number plate. If not enough parts were from a donor vehicle & parts from various different cars were used it would be registered on a Q plate.

Is yours a blue one with a wooden cab by any chance?

 

EDIT: Foers manufactured the Nomad 1977-1988, sold to Del Tech, Rotherham (along with the Metro based Triton). Not found out yet if Del Tech made any Nomads.


Edited by Itsaminithing, 13 July 2018 - 08:00 AM.


#5 MisterBridger1960

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 02:03 AM

Hi Itsaminithing,

                        no wood in it, but i didnt see it before the previous owner had it. It looks like all the mechanical work is of a competent standard. I just have to figure out all the tech specs of whats been fitted over its history. when i buy a car, i start a folder, and every nut bolt and spare part changed gets noted with bill etc and mileage and date at the time of work. Also take photos as i have a bad memory.yes, will have to join a local club.do you know what people did for dash requirements in these tubs. i want a basic leatherette look with minor padding. also trying to figure out how to get demisters working. Any ideas??????.. will keep folks on the forum upto date if i make progress.

thanks for the brief info. not sure how to pm folks at the moment.

 

TTFN Stu



#6 Ethel

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 10:45 AM

Sounds kike you have a pre-engaged starter. The solenoid is incorporated in to the motor as a smaller cylinder alongside the actual motor. It's more important that you operate it via a relay as it draws more current than the remote solenoid for inertia motors - they're just a big relay really. You could use the inertia solenoid as a relay for the pre-engaged solenoid - it's overkill and will put a bit more strain on the ignition switch, but it does avoid mucking with the battery cable. You could also just leave the old solenoid as a place to join the battery cable.







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