39 replies to this topic

[Vudu]

Tighten. Leave. Tighten. Leave. Tighten. Etc can take time.
 
you have taken the washer out.

 
When you say "washer" I'm assuming you're referring to the flywheel keyplate, correct? If so, then yes, it's been removed. As far as time is concerned, are we talking about days?
 

So i don't assume, is the green stuff on the threads, grease? If not, its always worth putting it on the threads of the centre bolt of the puller.

 Yes, the green stuff is grease but I can apply more if it helps achieve the goal.

Ok the puller is on the wrong way round.
 
how long it can take days or longer. 
 
or like John in this video just seconds. Note puller orientation.
https://youtu.be/uzLZhPGdpyE

I see. Will remove and flip. I believe I installed it the way I did after seeing 3 chamfered holes (not the ones for my application) on one side and assumed that they would have been for use with different fastener. Regardless, hopefully the above mention C washer is not an issue and after reinstallation and application, I get a better result.

[nicklouse]

If you leave it under tension make sure it's facing a strong wall as it come off like a bullet and will damage anything or anybody that gets in its way.

No it won’t. The puller has a flywheel retainer.

[Vudu]

If you leave it under tension make sure it's facing a strong wall as it come off like a bullet and will damage anything or anybody that gets in its way.

Will aim it at something I don’t like. Thanks for the tip.

[nicklouse]

 

If you leave it under tension make sure it's facing a strong wall as it come off like a bullet and will damage anything or anybody that gets in its way.

Will aim it at something I don’t like. Thanks for the tip.

 

No need. See above.

[Quinlan minor]

 

Want me one of those!

[Bobbins]

Mine took a couple of weeks and wrecked a puller. Get it under plenty of tension and leave it, then more tension and leave it again, and repeat and so on, I used my trolley jack bar to get more leaverage on the socket. In truth if the engine isn't bolted down you're going to struggle to get enough leverage on the puller.

However .... it's very likely you'll need some heat but a simple plumbers disposable canister type torch should be enough, whilst under tension heat the flywheel but not the crank end.

Good luck!!!

[nicklouse]

 

I'm afraid I have no help to add over the above advice but just wanted to say that is one serious puller, if that doesn't get it off then its not coming off (unless you cut it)!

 
Yeah, a big shoutout to Guessworks - that puller is mighty stout (although unfortunately the supplied UNC bolts were too big for the holes in the puller...the shank was just a touch too big so I had to seek out some grade 8 bolts that would work).

 

strange as your flywheel does not use UNC threads. it uses M10 threads and the bolts should have fitted fine in the holes for the Verto setup. the other holes being for the PreVerto that uses UNF threded bolts and the smallest ones for the Auto Torque exchanger.

A set of 9 screws designed for the Heavy Duty flywheel puller, but provide an upgrade to those used with many off the shelf and home made pullers.

• 3 x M10 HT Screws - Verto
• 3 x 3/8 UNF HT Screws - Diaphragm (Pre Verto)
• 3 x 5/16 UNF HT Screws - Torque Converter (Auto)

 

 
so do you have things set correctly? are you using the right holes in the puller?
 
so presuming you have it all correctly assembled and you are putting on pressure from the drive bolt to the ball bearing in the crank insert it can feel a little odd at first as the ball makes a dimple in the bolt end.
 
and dont forget dont disassemble the flywheel assy or you will not be able to lock the flywheel in the correct place with the slots horizontal.
 
I am now on the PC and it looks like you have undone the flywheel assy.
 
the last verto assy i pulled



 



 


note the flywheel lock and just a big spanner.

[Steve220]

You did remove the locking key before installing the puller bolt, didn't you?

[Vudu]

Week 3 - still no results. I purchased some Freeze-off as well as a more powerful impact wrench, but it didn't work. I originally had the slot positioned horizontally but that didn't work. Rotating it to a vertical position hasn't helped either. 

 

How would someone be able to tell if the primary gear backing ring C washer is out of place?

[nicklouse]

it would be loose but not free- put it back to horizontal.

 

 

sounds like you have a well welded flywheel.

 

just more force and hit the big center bolt.

[Vudu]

...aaaannnnnndddd now I have another broken tool. I removed and disassembled the puller only to find that the bolt that goes into the crank is now bent.

 

IMG_9169 by vudufl, on Flickr

[nicklouse]

if you bent that then i am sorry you did not screw it in fully as there is no way it can bend when fitted as the back of it rests on the crank nose.

[Spider]

...aaaannnnnndddd now I have another broken tool. I removed and disassembled the puller only to find that the bolt that goes into the crank is now bent.

 

IMG_9169 by vudufl, on Flickr

 

 

That's part of the reason why this is not a good idea to press on to the bolt. The other reason is that you're not pressing direct on to the crank, but the Bolt which is connected to the Crank via the Threads on the Bolt and those in the Crank Tail. It also reduces the force that's going where you actually need it.

 

If you want to catch the flywheel as it (hopefully / eventually) fly's free, but two pieces of 8 or 10 mm chain across it then slip in some bolts through the chain loops and into where the clutch cover screws on. You'll want decent washers on these bolts too.
 

[nicklouse]

 

...aaaannnnnndddd now I have another broken tool. I removed and disassembled the puller only to find that the bolt that goes into the crank is now bent.

 

IMG_9169 by vudufl, on Flickr

 

 

That's part of the reason why this is not a good idea to press on to the bolt. The other reason is that you're not pressing direct on to the crank, but the Bolt which is connected to the Crank via the Threads on the Bolt and those in the Crank Tail. It also reduces the force that's going where you actually need it.

 

If you want to catch the flywheel as it (hopefully / eventually) fly's free, but two pieces of 8 or 10 mm chain across it then slip in some bolts through the chain loops and into where the clutch cover screws on. You'll want decent washers on these bolts too.
 

 

annnnndd that bolt is designed to screw in and sit on the crank face. so you are not pressing on the threads at all. like i said user error.

[Bobbins]

Also ... if you've managed to bend that bolt are your 3 "pulling" bolts all set to EXACTLY the same distance from the clutch face? I suspect that if you've bent that bolt (yes it should have been screwed in further) your 3 bolts are not equal, this is critical to removing the flywheel.

Edited by Bobbins, 06 June 2020 - 08:49 AM.