Argh!
#31
Posted 18 June 2010 - 11:19 PM
#32
Posted 19 June 2010 - 01:29 AM
What model engine is it, is there some form of thermostat bypass?
#33
Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:50 AM
#34
Posted 19 June 2010 - 08:17 AM
Bear in mind that racing cars (read F3 and other single seaters) use only water, wheras on f1 you often see and additive (silkolene rings a bell).
However you never mentioned if the temperature reading is correct! You might be chasing down inexistant overheating problems.
I would stick with an 82C. no need of thermostat removal unless there is something serously wrong with the engine, its an old bodge which doesn't actually solve the problem....it only takes longer for the water to get hot, but eventually it will reach exactly the same temperature as with an open 74deg thermostat.
if a temperature check shows that the it is indeed overheating than proceed with all the other suggestions which have been posted, also check the fan belt for excessive slack and make sure the lower rad pipe isn't leaking.
Are you loosing any coolant? do have to keep topping up?
Best of luck!!!
p.s if its an injection engine stick with the specified thermostat...lowering it causes all sorts of issues.
Edited by guesstimator, 19 June 2010 - 08:18 AM.
#35
Posted 19 June 2010 - 08:40 AM
Have you tried running it without the thermostat to see if that does anything? Could rule out a dodgy radiator.
I'll give that a go, i'm starting to suspect the radiator itself may be the issue.
Are there any other signs it's overheating apart from the gauge? Running on, pinking?
No pinking or running on whatsoever.
What model engine is it, is there some form of thermostat bypass?
It's an A+ Series, i'm not sure if it has a bypass...
i know this is stupid but have u checked the radiator is FULL of coolant.
Yes, it is completely full. It's had 3 coolant flushes in 4 days!
Increasing the amount of glycol based antifreeze actually reduces the ability of the fluid to cool.
i'm using around 10-20% antifreeze, given the warmer temperatures.
I'm going to investigate the radiator this weekend.
#36
Posted 19 June 2010 - 09:52 AM
Just look at the xbox, red ring issue
You may just want to make sure its the new radiator you bought?
#37
Posted 19 June 2010 - 10:55 AM
Edited by skaterava, 19 June 2010 - 10:55 AM.
#38
Posted 19 June 2010 - 12:14 PM
I've seen temperature senders 'lie' in the past because they were not immersed in coolant which caused the gauge to read cool.
#39
Posted 19 June 2010 - 12:29 PM
You may find now that your cooling system is holding it's fluid the gauge is reading more accurately.
I've seen temperature senders 'lie' in the past because they were not immersed in coolant which caused the gauge to read cool.
So the old rad was actually overheating, but because it was leaky the sender wasn't immersed, so it read cooler than it actually was???
#40
Posted 19 June 2010 - 01:14 PM
#41
Posted 19 June 2010 - 01:17 PM
If what you're saying is true, and the 2 core i've been sold is a dud, i will not be happy with Minispares...
#42
Posted 19 June 2010 - 01:21 PM
#43
Posted 19 June 2010 - 01:28 PM
I'm really clutching at straws now, I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and replace the water pump. If that doesn't solve the problem, then i've got no idea what's wrong with my car.
#44
Posted 19 June 2010 - 01:29 PM
Go on Minisport OR Minispare, they always have the date of car and engine size next to the product on which would go with what.
P.S I work in Estate Agency, so i know all about sugar coating
p.s.s i hate my job, full of lies
Edited by Sam14, 19 June 2010 - 01:30 PM.
#45
Posted 19 June 2010 - 01:33 PM
http://www.minisport...ter_Matrix.html
http://www.minisport...43#aC_2dARA4443
Edited by Sam14, 19 June 2010 - 01:35 PM.
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