81 replies to this topic

[AndrewJ530]

Have you tried running it without the thermostat to see if that does anything? Could rule out a dodgy radiator.

[Ethel]

Are there any other signs it's overheating apart from the gauge? Running on, pinking?

What model engine is it, is there some form of thermostat bypass?

[E-Tizzle]

i know this is stupid but have u checked the radiator is FULL of coolant.

[guesstimator]

Increasing the amount of glycol based antifreeze actually reduces the ability of the fluid to cool. In the summer here in italy (35-37C). i run a 10 % mixture antifreeze with added waterwetter or similar (the millers stay cool i find is the best) on my old innocenti 1300 and i can kind of control temps and keep them to 90C max (aslo electic fan for when stuck in traffic). Antifreeze has many function which are increase boiling boint, reduce freezing temperature and lubricate the water pump. However it also increases the coolant's (intended as a mixture of water and antifreeze) viscosity, reducing its "wettability" power i.e. it will come in cotact with a reduced area af the water jakets as it cannot penetrate in all the nooks and crannies of the casting.
Bear in mind that racing cars (read F3 and other single seaters) use only water, wheras on f1 you often see and additive (silkolene rings a bell).
However you never mentioned if the temperature reading is correct! You might be chasing down inexistant overheating problems.
I would stick with an 82C. no need of thermostat removal unless there is something serously wrong with the engine, its an old bodge which doesn't actually solve the problem....it only takes longer for the water to get hot, but eventually it will reach exactly the same temperature as with an open 74deg thermostat.

if a temperature check shows that the it is indeed overheating than proceed with all the other suggestions which have been posted, also check the fan belt for excessive slack and make sure the lower rad pipe isn't leaking.

Are you loosing any coolant? do have to keep topping up?

Best of luck!!!

p.s if its an injection engine stick with the specified thermostat...lowering it causes all sorts of issues.

Edited by guesstimator, 19 June 2010 - 08:18 AM.

[skaterava]

Have you tried running it without the thermostat to see if that does anything? Could rule out a dodgy radiator.

I'll give that a go, i'm starting to suspect the radiator itself may be the issue.

Are there any other signs it's overheating apart from the gauge? Running on, pinking?

No pinking or running on whatsoever.

What model engine is it, is there some form of thermostat bypass?

It's an A+ Series, i'm not sure if it has a bypass...

i know this is stupid but have u checked the radiator is FULL of coolant.

Yes, it is completely full. It's had 3 coolant flushes in 4 days!

Increasing the amount of glycol based antifreeze actually reduces the ability of the fluid to cool.

i'm using around 10-20% antifreeze, given the warmer temperatures.


I'm going to investigate the radiator this weekend.

[Sam14]

You may have bought new parts but to everyones knowledge and experience, not everything new is going to run like smooth or work properly.

Just look at the xbox, red ring issue

You may just want to make sure its the new radiator you bought?

[skaterava]

I've sent Minispares an email, i did buy the rad unboxed and at a knocked down price at the L2B so i've started to get suspicious. There is no way a new 2 core rad can possibly perform worse than my old 4 core, which had a hole in it and spat coolant everywhere.

Edited by skaterava, 19 June 2010 - 10:55 AM.

[miniobsessed]

You may find now that your cooling system is holding it's fluid the gauge is reading more accurately.

I've seen temperature senders 'lie' in the past because they were not immersed in coolant which caused the gauge to read cool.

[skaterava]

You may find now that your cooling system is holding it's fluid the gauge is reading more accurately.

I've seen temperature senders 'lie' in the past because they were not immersed in coolant which caused the gauge to read cool.

So the old rad was actually overheating, but because it was leaky the sender wasn't immersed, so it read cooler than it actually was???

[wile e coyote]

daft thought but how cheap was the rad ? although I can't see one on minispares site you could get an aftermarket 2 core std rad some time ago that were barely up to the job of cooling a 998 - not the same as the modern supercooling two core ones.....

[skaterava]

It was £65, having been knocked down from £80. The clerk insisted the rad was a vast improvement over the standard 4 core and was up to the job of cooling 1275cc engines and more.

If what you're saying is true, and the 2 core i've been sold is a dud, i will not be happy with Minispares...

[wile e coyote]

Just long shot speculation - I wouldn't put it past any trader to dump old / dud stock at a show..... but £65 is about right for a 2 core super....

[skaterava]

They said it was uprated...

I'm really clutching at straws now, I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and replace the water pump. If that doesn't solve the problem, then i've got no idea what's wrong with my car.

[Sam14]

You sir have be had, never listen to people when there trying to sell you something as they will sugar coat like no tomorrow.

Go on Minisport OR Minispare, they always have the date of car and engine size next to the product on which would go with what.

P.S I work in Estate Agency, so i know all about sugar coating
p.s.s i hate my job, full of lies

Edited by Sam14, 19 June 2010 - 01:30 PM.

[Sam14]

For Example

http://www.minisport...ter_Matrix.html

http://www.minisport...43#aC_2dARA4443

Edited by Sam14, 19 June 2010 - 01:35 PM.