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Newcomer to the Mini Scene and my project


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#16 CAU998

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Posted 26 September 2005 - 09:35 PM

1 rear subframe in one month aint looking good i wont ever get it finished! :grin: I'm wanting the engine out but can't do that until after holiday in two weeks time! :lol:

#17 chunkomunko

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Posted 26 September 2005 - 09:56 PM

You don't waste any time at all!! Good on ya fella! Great project so far too!!

#18 stormduck

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Posted 27 September 2005 - 12:17 PM

cheers people, i've been lucky with the weather so far! I want to get as much done before it really turns sour, and then i can turn my attention to the myriad of parts in the garage!

#19 rsroadkilla

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Posted 27 September 2005 - 05:38 PM

lookin great mate.

Its not much work to take out the engine. I'd just borrow an engine crane from some nice person and haul her out of there! Im no mechaninc, but i managed to do mine and fit a 1275! its easy!

But the projets looking great! keep up the good work!

#20 stormduck

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 05:31 PM

rsroadkilla - cheers fella, I'm gona have to find out a bit more about removing the engine. People have said to drop the subframe, then lift up the body above the engine, and roll the subframe out, but that seems more complicated than hiring a hoist and lifting it out! I may also want to put the engine on to a stand so i can strip it, or if not going that far at least clean it and replace some oil seals.

Here's a round-up of todays work:

Used my boot to push out the windscreen - easier than i thought! Found out how to remove the speedo cable from the clocks and then could remove the clocks and related brackets, all the sound deadening from behing the dash and the dash itself. Revealing some nasty melted wires which is obviously why there's a mess of a repair job underthere.

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Went to halfords to increase my tools in the form of old measurements sockets and a couple of spanners, and then could remove the starter, brake servo and clutch master cylinder.

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Revealed a bit more rust around the screen, will have to decide whether to repair or replace:

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Got her up on axle stands, then removed the exhaust, and also drained the fuel in the tank:

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Next steps are to remove the petrol tank, remove anything stuck to or through the rear subframe, and get the rotten subframe off! Also to remove the wiper motor and get the wiring away from the bulkhead to remove the orrible sound proofing on the engine bay side of the bulkhead.

Also need to find out the best way of removing the engine, and sort out a MIG welder. Does anyone know how to remove the wiper arms!?

#21 liam_italian

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 06:16 PM

i think you just pull the wiper arms off mate!

#22 stormduck

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 07:06 PM

I've been levering them with a screwdriver but i didn't want to go too hard in case i was doing it wrong!

#23 stormduck

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Posted 04 October 2005 - 03:28 PM

My what fun i've had this afternoon! My plan was to remove the rear subframe, which didn't quite happen but i'm close!

Got the petrol tank out easy enough, but had to cut the brake pipe going into the split thing on the subframe because the bolt was seized and rounding its edges.

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Removed rear wheels, jacked up radius arm, Got the top mounts undone, lowered radius arm, then done other side, then got the rear up higher and placed axle stands underneath scaffolding board to support the car while jack supporting subframe.

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Soaked the bolts in WD40 and then i'm thinking WOW! This is easy!

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Until i got to the drivers side

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2 heads snapped off the bolts, 1 in each braket of drivers side. head rounded off 1 on passenger side. I can get to 1 of them from the boot, and will probably be able to undo it on my next attempt, but as for the other 2 i think i need help! I'll have to do some searches on the forum to find out, and/or get me mechanic friend round. But it's no disaster, i'm still positive!

Next stage is to purchase an engine stand, and hire a hoist and sort out the engine removal for next week.

#24 nomininolife

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Posted 04 October 2005 - 03:47 PM

Are you taking the whole of the front panel off?

If you are my son and myself lifted the engine out of ours with a thick piece of wood on our shoulders and a good piece of rope wrapped round the engine



Dave :grin:

#25 ed4ran

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Posted 04 October 2005 - 04:34 PM

Looking good, its been awhile since mine was like that!!

Keep it up. :D

#26 stormduck

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Posted 05 October 2005 - 05:08 PM

Cheers fellas

I may be removing the engine on my own, but your method sounds intregueing and i may just consider it with the help of a trusty side-kick. I am taking the front panel off yes, when i get round to it! It would certainly swipe the hiring cost of a hoist! I'm intending on taking the front suspension/brakes/driveshafts out on Friday so i'll have a look in the garage for a suitable lump of wood and i know i've got a tow rope, and then i can sum up the situation!

Cheers Fella!

#27 stormduck

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Posted 08 October 2005 - 09:50 AM

What a long day this was! I started at 10am and finished at 6pm, and it feels like i didn't get much done at all! But i was rather worn out by 6pm so i know i did do quite a lot....confusing :erm:

Anyway, stripped the rear brakes as i'm going to want to clean them, paint them and refit them. Removed the rear shocks, the brake lines which have completely had it, loosened the radius arm pin bolts.

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I need to get a hub puller, then i can do that, remove the backing plates, and then remove the radius arms:

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My intention was to remove the whole front suspension, but the ball joint lock nut is now stuck on its thread and i can't undo it or tighten it, grrr!!! And on the drivers side the lock nut comes off but do you think the ball joint will disslodge!!! OHHHH NOOOO!!! GRRRR!!! So that scuppered that plan. But i did remove the callipers and was impressed with 'AP' embossed on them, and the tie rods.

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One of the tie rods is actually bent! All the bushes are screwed, this mini must have been handling awful!

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And here's the stubborn ball joint!

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As i can't remove the rear subframe or front suspension without some advice/help, i think today and tomorrow i'm going to concentrate on grinding and cutting the front to finish it off before welding. The new panels arrived so i know what to cut and what not...hopefully!

If anyone can help on the ball joint situation then please do give me your advise! Cheers!

#28 stormduck

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Posted 08 October 2005 - 09:55 AM

Oh, and i also discovered that the head has problems. Poured petrol in the ports and it leaks through the side of the valves. Going to remove the springs and valves once i get a spring compressor and see the condition of the seats, if they're okay then i may conserve money and buy replacement valves, if they're screwed then i think i'll get a better head 12G295 or the 40 type and spend my money on having that one refurbed properly. I'll see. Cheers Kenny for the advise!

#29 ed4ran

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Posted 08 October 2005 - 10:35 AM

With the ball joint i guess its stuck (the nut) and you've soaked it in WD40?
but by the looks of it its far enough off to come off anyway (have i missed the problem your having?) if its stuck i would take some mole grips and gently grab the threaded part or even put some padding on the teeth of the mole grips then under the nut as normal.

When i stripped my rear subframe i didnt need a hub puller i just undid the nut and the hub just slid off. ;)

I guess i was quite lucky with mine as most of the bolts came out with out problems and most of the bits come apart without problems. :grin:

Looking good, keep going it wont be long till your ready for paint!!! :w00t:

#30 The Matt

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Posted 08 October 2005 - 01:38 PM

With the nut on the joint, I would get a crow bar or similar underneath it and lever the tapered joint back up into the hole (so it jams). THis is something that happens all the time and this is how I always undo them.

If you get a lever under it and lever it upwards the taper will jam in the hole and should hold enough for you to undo the nut.
I'd even be tempted to do that and wind the nut back down before trying to undo it. You can get to the threads then to clean them up where they have been tight (probably rust on the 'exposed' part of the thread). :wink:




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