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Acid Etch And High Build Primer


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#16 MiniBonkerz

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 08:49 AM

Do i give it a dust of grey primer first or skip this?

#17 Shifty

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 09:47 AM

1200 does sound a little fine, give the 800 a go and see what kind of finish you get.

I seem to recall that Tahiti Blue is quite sensitive to the primer colour, SoG had some issues with this I think.

So yes to grey primer.

#18 MiniBonkerz

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 10:08 AM

Cheers guys so the plan is sand back the high build then apply a coat of grey flat back with 800 dust of tahiti flat again full coat of tahiti then flat again another full coat of tahiti then do i flat and add laquer? also is it best to flat dry or wet between coats if wet what solution?


sorry for all the questions just want to get it right :D

#19 Shifty

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 10:15 AM

No need to flat between coats.

- Flat the high Build
-Grey Primer
-Give the grey primer a light sand to remove any minor imperfections.
- Dust a coat of tahiti
-Leave for 15mins
-Full coat of Tahiti
-Just as the paints tacking off(drying) give it another coat, repeat this till you've got a nice even coverage.

Chuck some laquer on it and give it a few coats of that, make sure you put plenty on that way you've plenty there to flat back and polish later.

#20 MiniBonkerz

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 10:18 AM

your a start shifty :D once hardened would rubbing compound be used on a wolly disc?

#21 Shifty

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 10:22 AM

Usually its a flat back with some 2000 grit and then a good buff up with a mop and some fine polishing compound. I use the foam mop heads.

Give it a week or so before messing with it though.

If you make a balls up when painting the basecoat you'll have to leave it till it hardens, flat off the bad area and then give a few blasts of Tahiti.

The laqquer stage isn't so bad as you'll be able to flat back the runs easy enough, just make sure you stick enough on to be able to flat it back though.

#22 MiniBonkerz

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 05:58 PM

so far so good will get some piccies up no runs what so ever :thumbsup:

#23 Shifty

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 07:16 PM

Glad it went ok, PICTURES!!!!

#24 MiniBonkerz

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 07:25 PM

Just want to get some laquer on it let that dry then will do a small thread on it :thumbsup:

#25 MiniBonkerz

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 07:25 PM

Just want to get some laquer on it let that dry then will do a small thread on it :thumbsup:

#26 MiniBonkerz

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 09:19 PM

not in laquer yet but here's the thread

http://www.theminifo...x...=157177&hl=

#27 midridge2

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 08:34 PM

sorry for the delay but have been away.
when you have bare metal with filler in you etch around the filler, a small amount will go on the filler but remember etch is put on as a mist coat, not fully covering so that you cannot see the metal.
etch is acid based and the etch can react when drawn into the filler and when you put your paint on it CAN react, it all depends on luck.

#28 B-shaw

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 11:20 PM

I've never had problems with using ETCH over filler before.

And whats this about ETCH only being used as a 'mist coat'? Again, i just used it as i would any other primer. Thats how I've been taught at college anyways.

#29 midridge2

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 08:23 AM

in most of my replies people dont believe what i say so do a search on panelbeaterpetes replies and see what he says about it as most people believe him.

#30 MiniBonkerz

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 08:27 AM

i can kind of understand why you wouldnt use it on filler but i have completed the boot now and it didn't react at all with the filler maybe i was just lucky but i will keep it in mind for next time :mmkay: thanks again for your info




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