655 replies to this topic

[Shifty]

Cheapskate!!

[bcjames]

I've got some JCG ones to go on it locked away in a box. Although that kit might be worth more off the car than on it

[bcjames]

Great service by Swiftune. I ordered this around 3pm yesterday and it arrived at lunch time today.



Swiftune SW5i cam by bcjamesmini, on Flickr

I just need the timing chain now and I think it's all ready to go then!

[nev_payne]

What exactly are you painting on the engine anyway? Looks freekin' sweet as it is.... and soooooo clean.

[bcjames]

It took me two hours to get the old number plates sticky stuff off the boot lid New one is now on. Really smartens up the rear, the old ones had really faded. Not quite convinced on the oversized plate though.



Mini Cooper by bcjamesmini, on Flickr

I'm also locked out of the boot The key won't turn.

Engine building panic is also on! Panicccccccc!

[MaxAndPaddy]

I like the number plate it makes Florence look even smaller ....dinky!

Good luck with the engine I'l be following that closely so take lots of pics

[bcjames]

It does, I like the small mini look rather than the wide low one.

The engine, hmmmm. I'm contemplating doing it all myself now so it gets done. Scary.

[nev_payne]

Bah... my little run-in speech got deleted

Oil: Change every 50 miles for the first 200 miles. Then 300, 600, 1000, 2000. Change the oil filter twice in the first 200, then at 600, then 2000. The first 2/3 changes will look like the engine's just done 10 rounds of LeMans. If anything looks suspicious on the sump plug or in the oil after the 600 miles oil change, abort and inspect.

Coolant: I made the mistake of leaving mine in for too long, dumping loads of crap into the expansion tank. Change it out after 100 miles, then again at 1000. On the first change it'll stink to high heaven and probably be full of engineering grease and swarf.

Driving: Stay under 3000rpm on all gears for the first 3000 miles and don't force gear changes. If it won't go, come back out and double press the clutch, try again. Don't sit there revving the nuts off your new engine either. Grandad driving until the 3000 mark.

Sounds: SirD's engine sounds completely different with the gearbox changes and X-Pin diff. Things will be much tighter sounding, and the usual sounds you'll instinctively listen out for will be gone. Have a good long listen to how the engine sounds when doing any gear changes, the idle, when the breaks are on (vacuum will adjust the idle) etc. Know what to listen for that's normal and what sounds like it's still rattling.

Need to get a large plate myself - where'd you source that one to?

Edited by nev_payne, 03 May 2012 - 10:05 AM.

[bcjames]

Hey Oli. I copy & pasted what you'd put in to word yesterday to ensure I had a copy of it, but thanks for posting again. I drove to work yesterday and I never seem to go much above 2500rpm anyway, aside in third down the slip road where i went up to 3000

I bought my plates from ftp_plates on eBay, they were £16 for the pair They are 'show plates', so correct for a pre-EU style car.

Steve if you spot this, if you've still got dealership stickers in the rear window of Paddy, could you take a measurement for me please? I've replaced mine but I'm sure it's not right.

I'm painting today



Arches primed by bcjamesmini, on Flickr

Edited by bcjames, 03 May 2012 - 10:34 AM.

[Shifty]

Hmm, my running in technique usually involves the length of my drive!!

[bcjames]

There's loooooads of different running in ideas out there. I'm making a list of them and then picking my favourite. Plenty of oil and filters in stock!

[MaxAndPaddy]

The JCG one?

[bcjames]

That's the one. I'm sure mine doesn't fill the gap as much as the old one would.

[MaxAndPaddy]

29.5cms by 5.5cms....Ha haaaaa god im sad I know that

[bcjames]

Haha just like that Thanks Steve.

I've got the heating on in the garage for my painting, it's warmer in there than it is in the house!