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Florence My '97 Cooper


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#466 bcjames

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 07:12 AM

Brave man, sorry I never got the photos for the cappings to you, but good on you for gettng it sussed - make sure your window seals are good, or that laquer will peal right off faster than you might think.

Videos and pics on my project page for what you'll need to look out for.


I played around with them and looked at your pics and some others and theres only really one way they can go on. I replaced the waist line seal thingies last year so they should be good. They press against the window both sides well enough.

I'll go and have a look at your pics. I didn't realise you'd be taking the engine all out again.

They look great!

:highfive:


:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

#467 bcjames

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:20 AM

Spurred on by the great efforts shown and the support given by Oli, I decided to go ahead and check my oil level :lol:

But I think I have noticed something amiss. Last year when I took a photo of the oil leaky bits down the back, the pot joint looked like this:


Posted Image
Not so good here... by bcjamesmini, on Flickr

But I looked today, and it looks like this:


Posted Image
Pot joint by bcjamesmini, on Flickr

The fat pot joint has moved outward about an inch. The smaller shaft thing is now exposed and has some rust rotational score marks around it.

Is it broken? >_<

#468 Andrew O

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:22 AM

It's not broken, Take it out, clean it up, regrease it and put a new cv boot on
Job done

#469 bcjames

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:24 AM

Regrease it? The booted joint looks fine still, it's just the inner side of the pot looks like it wants to fall off the diff.

#470 Andrew O

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:03 AM

Yeah if you take it out you might as well regrease it to save you doing it in the future.
It just looks like it need knocking back in

#471 bcjames

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:52 AM

That was it Andrew. A tap from the outer CV end of things and it slid back over to the diff. Hopefully it stays put!


Posted Image
Pot joint by bcjamesmini, on Flickr

#472 bcjames

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Posted 27 April 2012 - 10:44 AM

Did it stay put? Did it. >_<

I've not looked at it since I got the car back from the gearbox job, so it may have been like this for ages. Clearly the circlip is either not present or damaged. Two new ones on order from Minispares, oil bought, and the car is parked up :(

#473 bcjames

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 08:11 AM

Replacement column cowl still bloody rattles >_< >_< Can I dynamat the inside of it or something?

I've bought some 10w40 semi to see if I can change gear with that in there.

Edited by bcjames, 28 April 2012 - 08:15 AM.


#474 nev_payne

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 08:38 AM

Careful with the 10/40 there pal, use it (for science!) but soon as the problem's sorted change back to someting thicker.

#475 bcjames

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 08:43 AM

I've always used 10w40 in this car. I never know what to put in it now Oli, everyone says something different!

Using my scientific quality street tin lid, I will measure how quickly it leaks past my crank seal and ruins my clutch :lol:

#476 mini-luke

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 08:51 AM

Mine's got 10/40 in too, and guess what, it hasn't self destructed, blown up or committed suicide, contrary to what some will you have you believe.

#477 bcjames

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 08:55 AM

Mine's got 10/40 in too, and guess what, it hasn't self destructed, blown up or committed suicide, contrary to what some will you have you believe.


It's only got 20w50 in because that's what it came back from the gearbox shop with. I left it in as a few people said it would be smoother, but it hasn't helped my cause.

Edit for another point: It's the lack of zinc in the modern style oils compared to classic 20w50 that concerns me, else I'd happily use 10w40 without a second thought.

I forgot to say, after a bit of testing last night, my issue selecting 1st and 2nd is down to a 'tight' gearbox, and nothing to do with the clutch. I can't remember the details sufficiently to type them up again here, but hopefully that's something I can sort out when the engine comes out again.
  • Selection
  • Rattle
  • Leak
  • Driveshafts
I can at least get the last one sorted this weekend.

Edited by bcjames, 28 April 2012 - 09:01 AM.


#478 miniman retford

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 09:07 AM

I use 10/40 semi synthetic in Beryl, never had any problems.
It's what it says in the handbook :D

#479 bcjames

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 09:23 AM

It's what it says in the handbook :D


I'm hoping that in 1996 Rover were still sufficiently optimistic to not print something that would kill all their engines :lol:

#480 bcjames

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 10:26 AM

I took my arches off to paint them green, but they aren't as tidy as I thought up close so I've put them back on :lol: For £19 for a new set I may as well paint fresh new ones!

I've also found out my drivers door is missing a channel on the window regulator, so I need to replace that.

Biiiig Minispares order happening today I think.




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