719 replies to this topic

[MrBounce]

After a bit of a hiatus, I can safely say it's nice to be back in the Manroom! It was time to finish off the captive bolt brackets I'd made for the shock and pedal box mounts so I primed them before giving them a coat of satin black. To be fair I could've painted them any colour as they'll be inside the bulkhead or hidden behind the subframe but black was what I had to hand.

 

Next up was sorting out the speedo gearing as my plans had changed since I had the gearbox refurbished by Guessworks. Using his excellent speedo drive calculator http://www.guess-wor.../Tech/ratio.htm I worked out I needed a worm/pinion ratio of 5/17 as opposed to the 7/18 that was in there. Having already acquired the bits I needed it was time to remove, replace and refit. I checked my gasket box and made sure that I had the appropriate replacements, then whipped the speedo drive endplate off. Off came the cover and the part that the cable attaches to. A bit of gentle persuasion had the old worm and pinion out and on the bench. I gave the (already cleaned) replacements a blast of carb cleaner, then after drying I gave them a smear of engine oil. Then it really was a matter of "refitting is the reverse of removal" with the exception of replacing the gaskets.

 

Captive bolt brackets in primer

 

 

Speedo drive endplate off and on the bench

 

 

These needed to come out!

 

 

I don't need these ones anymore...

 

 

New ones installed...

 

 

...And all back together as if nothing happened.

 

[MrBounce]

The Midas now has something bolted back on to it!! However, it has not been without its complications and there's not an awful lot to show for it. Let me explain.

 

On a Mini, bolting on the front dampers is nice and easy because all you need to do is to pop 4 bolts into the captive nuts on the inner wings. The Midas has 4 bolts to attach nuts to, 2 of which are captive and INSIDE the front crossmember. The top 2 are just chucking a couple of bolts through the bodywork; however the bottom 2 are somewhat different. I have made 2 plates with 2 bolts in (one for each side) as an improvement to Midas' original design which was simply a "D" shapped washer welded onto a bolt to stop it turning. Getting them in is - how's the most polite way of saying this? - a ******* challenge. The only way is to insert it through the hole for the big tower bolt for the front subframe, and it takes a lot of patience and contortion. Forget about putting in/removing split pins from the master cylinders - THIS is the most difficult job on a Midas. I have only managed to get one in so far as it took me close to 2 hours to get it in. I'd love to know how they did it in the factory if they'd already built the body...

 

Anyway, the passenger side shock mount is on. I am expecting the driver's side to be equally troublesome. Watch this space.

 

Well - it's done. And I still have one more to do. Whoop-di-doo.

 

Edited by MrBounce, 03 January 2016 - 01:45 PM.

[nicklouse]

So the cross member is not open to the pedal box area like on the Mini?

[Artstu]

So the cross member is not open to the pedal box area like on the Mini?

 

More open than on a Mini. neither allow easy access to that side panel where the damper mount goes. On the Midas I guess an access hole on the bit that's boxed off inside the car would be a possible mod to improve access.

[MrBounce]

Couldn't have put it better myself Stu. Not exactly an easy place to cut a hole though...

 

What's the betting that the other side will be considerably easier???

[MrBounce]

Although I have not spent much time in the garage recently for a myriad of reasons, I have struggled for a good 3 hours to get the second captive bolts into the driver's side crossmember without success. I think it's because the plate is just that little bit too wide that's causing the problem, so I am going to trim it down on my friend's grinding wheel and then have a another go. If that doesn't work I may have to resort to more brutal measures i.e. cutting the crossmember open under the dashboard, popping the captive plate in and than glassing it up again. 

 

In the meantime, what else to do? I really didn't fancy spending much time in the garage, so I decided to clean up the expansion tank. This was filthy dirty and had obviously come from a car which had little or no care taken of its cooling system. The inside was covered in a nasty rusty residue and it really needed a clean up. The question was - how? It wasn't exactly an easy thing to get a brush into as it's a weird shape. Once I'd bunged up the pipes, I made a solution of hot water and caustic soda, and left it bubbling away for half an hour, giving it regular agitation. This had no effect whatsoever. So I had a chat to the knowledgeable chaps on here and the best solution was bleach, rice and agitation (I could also have used water & coarse sand, but as I had none to hand, the rice/bleach seemed the easiest option). The rice acts as a a mild abrasive and the bleach does the rest. Many thanks Nick, Kev & Ian for your advice. 

 

Much pouring, shaking, tutting and tired arms later, there was a significant improvement. I then rinsed everything carefully then gave the tank a good clean on the outside using hot soapy water. It's not perfect as there's still a few really stubborn dirty bits inside the tank, but if half an hour with various chemicals won't shift them then not much else will! As I don't have a dishwasher, I might casually pop it into one of my friends' next time they're filling it...

 

Before, with ugly rusty residue and dirty exterior.

 

 

After, looking much more serviceable.

 

Edited by MrBounce, 31 January 2016 - 03:18 PM.

[MrBounce]

Well it's been a while... I have had no motivation to get into the Manroom so I just haven't been in there - for about 5 weeks! So, having had a clean up, I looked at a few of the little jobs that I can be getting on with whilst waiting for the weather to warm up enough for me to spray the car again. 

 

I had a look at a couple of interior bits that will need work, primarily the rear-view mirror & sun visors. The mirror itself is ok, but the light's internals are rusted and useless and the lens has had its retaining clips damaged. My first thought was to build something up where the original light was, but I thought that I would also look at replacing the whole unit. I discovered that these came from a Fiat 126. As there's not too many of these left around today (the engines are popular with the Classic Fiat 500 brigade), I thought it'd be unlikely that I would find anything. Yet good ol' eBay came up trumps. It was slightly more than I wanted to pay, but hey, the chances of me finding another cheaper would be nigh on impossible. Just waiting on delivery now.

 

The sun visors were also in a sorry state, having been damp in the past, as well as being subjected to some orange overspray (Oops, my bad). My first thought was to replace using some from the same seller I got the mirror from, but his ones looked much the same condition as mine. As I like a challenge, I think I'll have a go at remaking/rebuilding them. At least I know they should be relatively simple...

 

I had a stroke of luck when helping my friend Tink clear out his garage. He'd been storing a few Mini bits for a friend and there was a sump guard there. My driveway has a few bumps on it, so I asked how much he wanted for it. The text reply was that he couldn't sell it too me - he could give it to me instead, on the condition that I bought cakes in for Tink's garage nights. Guess I'm going to be getting fatter.

 

Finally, I have pulled out the gear selector as it will need to be extended. Originally my Midas had a remote gearbox and a Cooper S engine, and thus did not have the original extended factory rod change unit. My plan is to cut the steady rod at the lever end and the selector rod nearer the gearbox end so once extended they do not clash. I have cut some 1/2" ID steel tube to a 4 3/4" length, allowing me to sleeve the rods at 1/2" each end of the tube, giving me the 3 3/4" required. The rods have been marked out - I just need to cut and weld them now.

 

Rear-view mirror ok, but light and switch is knackered. Replacement unit ordered.

 

 

Sunvisors showing the after effects of overspray and damp...

 

 

... on both sides. Time to get creative!!

 

 

Nice sump guard for the price of some cakes. Needs a clean but I love it!

 

 

Steel tube cut to size before tidying it up (you can still see the blue paint from the hacksaw!)

 

 

Rods marked ready for cutting, sleeving and welding.

 

[MrBounce]

I have received a few items from my eBay splurge, and among them was a can of chrome spray paint. I have struggled to get a decent shine on the tarnished rear light units, so to aid shine I thought I would use some of this stuff. I spent ages with some sandpaper making sure that all surfaces were suitably keyed on both the rear lights and also the front indicator/sidelight units, then gave them a good coat of the stuff in the garage. Have to say I am quite pleased how well it's turned out. There should be a suitable amount of reflection now.

 

I have also received a full set of manifold studs, brass nuts and appropriate washers, a pair of half-decent windscreen washers and a pair of gear selector mounting bobbins. The mirror and interior light combo also turned up, but the light lens was broken. To their credit the seller has immediately offered to send a replacement lens free of charge. Top bloke!

 

Newly "chromed" rear light units. They'll do. 

 

 

Some of the eBay haul. Replacement mirror/light combo to follow.

 

[MrBounce]

During my recent garage clear-up (it still looks like a tip) I noticed something about the subframe which I wasn't happy with. The rubber boots on the knuckle joints were starting to perish. I can't remember where they came from, but they should last longer than a couple of years - and that's being kept inside. As a plus point whilst helping Tink with his clearout, we found Matt's pair of Adjusta-Rides, brand new and still boxed. A (very reasonable) price was arranged and they returned home with me. The adjustable cones on my subframe were generic no-name types and although there's no reason why they won't work just fine, I would be happier with a more well-known brand. I also plan to paint the metal part of the cones, as they are looking tarnished.

 

So after borrowing Tink's cone compressor, I whipped out the old cones and knuckle joints. Whilst they're off I can also fit the top arm rebound buffers - for some reason I had 3 new ones, but when I fitted the cones, I could only find one of them. So that's been put on the list of "must-dos".

 

Old cones out...

 

 

...because of this...

 

 

...and these...

 

 

...and the need to fit these.

 

[MrBounce]

Not much more to report other than I have taken out the bottom arms, end plates and doughnuts and have given them a coat of the same paint as the engine, radius arms and hubs. The top arms were bought painted in a slightly different shade of blue - although I thought it wouldn't bother me, it did start to niggle so as I had everything apart, I may as well give them a fresh coat. I have also fitted the 2 new top arm rebound buffers, but I think they're so boring I didn't bother taking a picture...

 

Freshly painted doughnuts, top arms and...

 

 

...end plates. Those aren't chips by the way - it's light reflecting!

 

[MrBounce]

I have a clean (er) garage. This meant that I could once again drag out the subframe and refit the doughnuts, new Adjusta-Rides (SO much lighter than the copies!) and knuckles and of course the repainted top arms. Out came the cone compressor and after a short while remembering the best way to put everything back together, both sides were back in and tightened up. I even managed to line up the word "Dunlop" so it showed through the front opening of the suspension tower - I'm a bit OCD like that. 

 

I have finally got hold of a new lens cover for my "new" interior mirror/light combo. I was originally going to return it but he found some new lens covers and for my inconvenience sent 2. Ironically I'd bought another mirror in that time, but this had a broken lens too. So I now have 2 complete mirrors. Erm...

 

Newly painted doughnuts, freshly fitted with...

 

 

...genuine Adjusta-Rides. Lovely.

 

[MrBounce]

It appears I have had a massive upturn in fortune. I have been a bit down and disheartened due to my inability to get the captive bolts for the right front shock mount in place. It's very possibly the most inaccessible place on a Mk1 as the only way to get to it is though the big bolt hole for the subframe on the crossmember. In theory you can cut a hole under the dash and go in through there, but I really didn't want to cut the car about. I went into the garage today with a "Never-say-die" attitude, full of intentions to make the thing fit. 

 

I decided to grind some of the excess metal away on the bolt plate (I thought that it was snagging on the edges), taking all the corners off using the Dremel. It still wouldn't play ball, so I did some more "adjustments". After 2 1/4 hours' of patiently fiddling about in a dark hole, it suddenly slotted into place. I quickly jammed a screwdriver down there to stop the plate moving back, put the shock mount in place and nipped up the nuts. FINALLY I had SUCCESS! And if anyone thinks I'm taking it off, you can forget it!! 

 

There were a couple of other little things I completed today which thankfully didn't need anything like the effort required for the shock mount. I had no holes for the windscreen washers and no windscreen washers themselves. I secured a couple from eBay for buttons and drilled holes for them, having taken careful measurements (the original holes had been filled in as a) I wasn't sure what type I'd be using and b) I don't like the original Mini ones. The final thing I did was to pop the captive bolts in for the throttle pedal. Thankfully I could see what I was doing for this one...

 

Windscreen washer. These will be taken out before I spray the final coats.

 

 

Captive nut plate for the throttle pedal now in place. Will be hidden behind subframe tower.

 

 

You have no idea how happy I am to see those nuts done up... SHOCK MOUNT IS ON!!!

 

[Ben_O]

Well done!

 

[MrBounce]

Thanks Ben - it feels good to have done that!

 

Back in the Manroom again today and it was time to re-do a job. This is something I hate doing, especially as it was out of my control, but also (kind of) my own doing. When I renewed the rear wheel bearings, I used budget bearings, and when the time came to torque up the hub nut, they hubs locked solid. So I have knocked out the bearings and races to await the new Timken bearings that are on their way. Am not happy. I should have saved for the Timkens in the first place...

 

I have started to tart a few bits up on the rear hatch, namely the lock surround and hatch handle as well as the roundels that sit on the glass where the gas struts attach. To get the lock and handle off, I first undid the bolt that holds on the lever arm to the lock, then slid out the lock mechanism. Then I undid the 1" nut which holds the lock surround on and took it off. Some wet & dry later, it was ready to be primed. I followed this up with removing the bolts/lugs for the struts from the roundels, and cleaned both the lugs and the roundels. Out came the primer, and once that was dry, I hit it all with some satin black. 

 

Finally, my friend gave me a number plate light he had no use for. This was perfect for the Midas other than it was chrome. So once again it was sanded, primed and given a coat of satin black. I measured carefully and then drilled pilot holes for the screws to hold it in place. I fitted it for posterity - it'll come off when I repaint the car but hey - it looks good!

 

Rubbish bearings removed. Timkens to follow.

 

 

Large nut holding on hatch handle & lock surround.

 

 

Primed surround and handle...

 

 

...and also a lick of the grey stuff for the roundels.

 

 

A coat of satin black for the hatch handle & lock surround...

 

 

...and also the roundels and lugs.

 

 

And I am super-pleased with the number plate light. Looks great!

 

[MrBounce]

Muchos gracias Gentlemen  8-) 

 

Today has been a long day. I have spent close to 6 hours in the blazing sunshine. However, I wasn't lazing about - I was sorting the shell, doors and bonnet ready for some more paint. Having left the bodywork for 8 months after my painting mishap (LOTS of runs due to making the paint mixture too runny - all operator error!) it was in dire need of sorting out. All the blemishes have been looked at, filled, sanded, cleaned etc. This car will never have a perfect paint job, but then I don't have a few thousand to fling at it so someone else in a bodyshop can charge me £75+ an hour. 

 

I first of all took out as many of the runs as I could find (which took FOREVER!) then filled all the little nicks that had occurred when brushing past it/dropping things onto it/accidentally pushing it into stuff. I then hit the whole thing with 600-grit so it's smooth-ish but the new paint will have a key to adhere to. 

 

Tomorrow I will clear out the garage, put up plastic sheeting, re-mask the car and use Shaun's compressor that I have just borrowed. Watch this space...

 

Bodyshell after sanding out the runs.

 

 

A few minor imperfections in the doors...

 

 

...and the bonnet.

 

 

All sanded and primed ready for more colour.