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#1 coopdog

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 09:44 PM

im looking to buy a mega jolt and on triggerwheels.com in the kit it saids 1275 trigger wheel, would i need a different one because im using a 998?
and also what tacho drive would i need, a 2, 3 or 4-input tacho driver?

thanks
callum

#2 charie t

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 09:48 PM

edis 4 from a 90's fiesta/escort
998 pulley is not easy to fit a trigger wheel to, 1275 pulley is favoured as it has the damper that can be machined down

#3 coopdog

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 09:52 PM

edis 4 from a 90's fiesta/escort
998 pulley is not easy to fit a trigger wheel to, 1275 pulley is favoured as it has the damper that can be machined down


this is the pack
  • Megajolt ECU
  • New coil pack and connector
  • New crank sensor and connector
  • Refurbished EDIS Ignition module
  • Coil pack bracket
  • Loom kit
  • Set of 8mm silicone spark plug leads
  • Complete with software and mapping cable to allow you to tune the system and maps for a wide range of engines
  • Custom A-series crank sensor bracket and spacer kit in place of universal bracket
  • Bolt-on trigger wheel for 1275-style A-series engines with unique self-centering billet aluminium spacer system.
so what would i have to do to the trigger wheel? nothing?



this are the options for the tacho

Tacho driver module for coil-driven rev counters

Suitable for Megasquirt, Megajolt and many other ECUs the tacho driver allows you to retain your existing coil driven rev counter. If you have a more modern rev counter accepts the 5 volt output of most ECUs then you do not need one of these.

Wasted-spark




Tacho driver module for coil-driven rev counters


Suitable for Megasquirt, Megajolt and many other ECUs the tacho driver allows you to retain your existing coil driven rev counter. If you have a more modern rev counter accepts the 5 volt output of most ECUs then you do not need one of these.


Wasted-spark


Individual coil per cylinder


2-input tacho driver


4-cylinder engines


2-cylinder engines


3-input tacho driver


6-cylinder engines


3-cylinder engines


4-input tacho driver


8-cylinder engines


4-cylinder engines



Please note that some rev counters can be particularly difficult and may require additional tweaks to work correctly.






Please note that some rev counters can be particularly difficult and may require additional tweaks to work correctly.


Edited by coopdog, 01 January 2012 - 09:53 PM.


#4 coopdog

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 09:54 PM

http://trigger-wheel.../en-uk/d33.html

#5 icklemini

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 10:06 PM

with that kit it would be best to use a 1275 pully....
the trigger wheel in the kit fits 'into' the 1275 pully...

#6 coopdog

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 10:08 PM

with that kit it would be best to use a 1275 pully....
the trigger wheel in the kit fits 'into' the 1275 pully...


i dont understand >_<

#7 charliedurrant

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 10:28 PM


with that kit it would be best to use a 1275 pully....
the trigger wheel in the kit fits 'into' the 1275 pully...


i dont understand >_<


It's self centering, i.e. it slots in to a dampened pulley. They do sell a different wheel to attach to the non dampened pulley.

I have a trigger wheels kit. Personally I would source the edis and coil from a scrappy, the jolt from the states and the wheel and sensor from trigger wheels. And finally.... The wiring from wilson on here as he tests the before sending on his car. The wiring is the headache...also do spray the edis connections with contact cleaner / wd40 as 'the Matt' mentioned it and mine had obvious copper / ally corrosion ( it's hard to tell the metal type as they are recesse). Wilson may be able to supply the edis and coil pack and thus he could confirm all the electrics?

Also note that the trigger wheels wiring loom is not a loom it is a few meters of coloured wires most of which, with all megajolt wires connected, you won't use...(well I didn't )

Charlie



#8 charliedurrant

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 10:31 PM

Callum,

Sorry, forgot to say, I don't have a tacho, perhaps a post in the problems forum will get some answers...

Charlie

#9 coopdog

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 10:43 PM

thanks guys!!

#10 l_jonez

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 11:26 PM

It's simple, orders the megajolt from Brent ready made. Go to scrappies and get the ford bits, do the wireing yourself ( it literally a few wires) you would be insane to pay any one to do it for you. Order a trigger wheel and mount it and make bracket or order the wheel and bracket. As for the tacho just use pin 11 from the edis

#11 bunch1980

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 11:55 PM

It's simple, orders the megajolt from Brent ready made. Go to scrappies and get the ford bits, do the wireing yourself ( it literally a few wires) you would be insane to pay any one to do it for you. Order a trigger wheel and mount it and make bracket or order the wheel and bracket. As for the tacho just use pin 11 from the edis


Take me away to be sectioned now lol, As I am waiting for my loom from Wilson on here, and brackets to, from looking at other prices it will be very good value for money and as said be tested on his car to. I will get Mj from states to already have edis etc.


#12 l_jonez

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 12:06 AM

Seriously? It's a +12v supply a ground and a length of shielded wire for the pip & saw.

#13 charliedurrant

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 12:10 AM

Also, depending on space, you can avoid using the bell housing coil pack bracket, see

http://www.theminifo...showtopic=71956

Note the trigger wheels coil pack bracket has two large circular cut outs that are there to save weight. All they do is restrict the mounting options and also note that you will have to drill your own holes in the bracket
to mount on the bell housing. Note the bell housing holes are 66mm apart. I think the above topic shows a much better mounting position, I couldn't do it myself as my water bottle is in the way.

Charlie

#14 charliedurrant

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 12:22 AM

Seriously? It's a +12v supply a ground and a length of shielded wire for the pip & saw.


+ crank sensor shielded wire (same as pip saw wire) and utilising the existing shielding on the edis unit.


It is easy when you know how and yes the basic setup is only a few wires ........but when you've just bought new electrical parts you don't want to damage anything. It's also also about spare time.......

It is also worth checking if Wilson's cables (if you are interested) have all the megajolt wires wired up and not just +/-/pip/saw...or if he supplies the additional molex pins.

http://www.theminifo...om/page__st__30

See another thread for wiring issues

http://www.theminifo...-reading-error/

And another thread for tacho wiring - I haven't read the thread from top to bottom - I just used google as the forum search is not so good.

http://www.theminifo...16#entry2141822

Charlie

Edited by charliedurrant, 02 January 2012 - 12:24 AM.


#15 l_jonez

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 12:40 AM

Just to clear up when you go to the scrappies locate the associated wireing. On a fiesta you can remove the edis plug and the whole length of vr sensor wire and plug also coil pack wire and plug complete. So there's no need to worry about them. You will however need to. Cut the pip & saw wires and the +12v & ground wires to be able to remove the edis plug.



Calum I'll do you a loom for half the price.




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