47 replies to this topic

[bmcecosse]

Bend the arm towards the slave cylinder - I bet it works then!

[Jwatts93]

To be honest

Bend the arm towards the slave cylinder - I bet it works then!

To be honest I'd rather fix it properly thankyou

And ok I will have a look at it tomorrow and see what this distance is and let you know thankyou for your help it has been very usefull

[bmcecosse]

Your slave cylinder is probably reaching end of stroke - that's why it's not disengaging properly - this assumes you have bled it properly of course. The option is to fit a slightly longer push rod - the rod going into the slave, if you really cant bring yourself to spend 10 seconds bending the arm! It only need to move 1/4" or so.........

[Jwatts93]

Wont changing the slave cylinder also sort this ?

[bmcecosse]

Can't see why. The real problem is cumulative wear on the operating arm etc, and very possibly the arm has taken a slight 'set' away from the slave cylinder. It doesn't take much!

[Jwatts93]

So what could you suggest ?

[bmcecosse]

^^^^^^

[Jwatts93]

So just hammer it 1/4 " towards the engine ?

[Cooperman]

That's not the right thing to do really. Better to do a 'proper job' and change whatever is causing the problem.
But if it works for some, then fine.

[Jwatts93]

I'd rather do it properly I am going to check the travel tomorrow and go from there I'll post on here again tomorrow with the results and get some advice on where to go , if it is below 0.5" shall I order the slave sylinder and hose and start there ?

[Cooperman]

I'd rather do it properly I am going to check the travel tomorrow and go from there I'll post on here again tomorrow with the results and get some advice on where to go , if it is below 0.5" shall I order the slave sylinder and hose and start there ?

If it's less than 0.5" check for free play in the lower clevis pin which holds the arm to the clutch cover. It is lower down on the arm and if it wears a lot it can cause the same symptoms. Take a look at the 'faultfinder' posted above.

[Shifty]

Is your idle speed high?

[tiger99]

If the travel is too small, also check the pedal, clevis pin and master cylinder push rod for wear. Usually, the clevis pin seems to be quite hard, but the pedal is mild steel and the hole may elongate, which will cause lost travel.

Sadly, it is by far the most awkward area of a Mini to work in, unless you are a contortionist. The usual way is to take the seats out, and put down some cusions on the floor so you can lie on your back.

[Cooperman]

If the travel is too small, also check the pedal, clevis pin and master cylinder push rod for wear. Usually, the clevis pin seems to be quite hard, but the pedal is mild steel and the hole may elongate, which will cause lost travel.

Sadly, it is by far the most awkward area of a Mini to work in, unless you are a contortionist. The usual way is to take the seats out, and put down some cusions on the floor so you can lie on your back.

That clevis pin has to be the most awkward job on a Mini. I had to change a clutch master cylinder on a fellow-competitor's Cooper 'S' in the town square in Cortina d'Ampezzo after a Pirelli Classic Marathon. What a palaver that was. Still, he did buy me a beer or three afterwards.
By bet would be on the slave cylinder if the arm travel at its top is less than 0.5", but it could well be something else. The 'fault-finder' I posted above will identify it if followed from the beginning.
Right, off to tidy and clean up my workshop for the rest of the day.

[Jwatts93]

I tried to check the travel today was quite awkward and hard to get an accurate reading but it does look like it is slightly below 0.5" what are the things I should check for now