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Pre Verto Clutch Adjustment


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#31 Jwatts93

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 12:58 PM

I have had a little feel around tried checking for any play I don't know exactly what I'm looking at but the bottom and top pin on the arm both seemed fine, I tried getting up on to the clutch pedal but didn't want to take my seats out as I'm driving it in a minute I have small arms and hands so I reached along and up the clutch pedal but didn't really no what to feel for but what I did feel there wasn't any play anywhere really only play I felt ( quick check ) was a little but of play sideways in the clutch arm but only a small amount

#32 Cooperman

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 03:57 PM

It is probably the slave cylinder. They are not expensive and it's a very easy job. But try to measure the movement at the top of the arm more accurately first. The average movement seems to be 0.55". Less than about 0.52" and you could have clutch drag, which is what you have.

#33 Jwatts93

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 04:20 PM

I did measure from the top and most times it looked under 0.50" so I think I'll order a new cylinder and hose ? Is this right ?
Do I have to remove anything else to change the cylinder ?

#34 Cooperman

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 04:33 PM

I did measure from the top and most times it looked under 0.50" so I think I'll order a new cylinder and hose ? Is this right ?
Do I have to remove anything else to change the cylinder ?


No, it should come straight off.
Undo the return spring, undo the hose and take out the 2 off 3/8" UNC bolts (that's 9/16" AF spanner size). Undo the hose from the end of the pipe which comes from the master cylinder to the bracket on the bulkhead, replace the hose there first, then attach the cylinder and fit the new hose. Bleed out with new fluid. Use a piece of rag to prevent any clutch fluid from going on the paintwork when you disconnect it - brake/clutch fluid is the finest paint stripper known to man!
Good luck with this. Come back here for any further advice you might need.

#35 Jwatts93

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 04:50 PM

Ok do I need to do anything in the floor well part of the clutch or is it only in the engine bay just hose and cylinder and that's it shall I change the hose first the do the cylinder then bleed, is there any tips you could give me as I've never done this before
Thankyou for your help it has been great

#36 Cooperman

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 06:41 PM

Yesw, remove the cylinder, remove the hose, re-fit the hose to the bulkhead connection, fit the new cylinder, then fit the new hose to the new cylinder. Bleed out until there is no air in there. Re-set the stop to, say, 0.020" and see if it's cured the problem. Adjust the stop to suit so that the pedal bite is at the right point.

#37 bmcecosse

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 09:08 PM

You don't 'hammer' it - apply a long bar to it - best done with a bit of heat. But have you tried a longer push rod yet?? You can simulate this by sitting a small nut inside the slave (on the piston cup) - and placing the push rod on top of it....... If that works - then just extend the push rod by welding in a piece. Or just bend the arm - it takes seconds, and it WILL cure the problem! You seem to be determined to make a mountain out of a molehill!

Edited by bmcecosse, 19 May 2012 - 09:12 PM.


#38 Jwatts93

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 05:47 PM

Little update, I have changed the cylinder now ( the old one was absolutely buggared ) it is fine into first and lovely through the gears but still crunches on reverse but pumped it earlier and it went in ok so does this mean I need to bleed it better? I'll try it again in a minute to see if it was just luck or not

#39 Cooperman

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 06:41 PM

Reverse is not a syncro gear, so if the revs are a bit high it can crunch. Check the tickover and make sure it is not over about 800 rpm.

#40 Jwatts93

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 07:03 PM

Ahh right Rickover is at about 1200, but changes with the choke obviously ?

#41 Cooperman

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 07:15 PM

It needs to be no higher than 750 to 800 rpm when warm.
Putting it into reverse when the choke is keeping the revs higher than that will always cause a 'graunch' (Love that word!).

#42 Jwatts93

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 07:36 PM

Ok is the crunch a big problem ? As its not a syncro

#43 bmcecosse

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 07:40 PM

Yes - it will chip the gears......and then the chips go places you don't want them to be.

#44 huntface

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 12:58 PM

Is your idle speed high?


I'm having similar problems and mine is high. What does this indicate?

#45 Cooperman

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 04:25 PM


Is your idle speed high?


I'm having similar problems and mine is high. What does this indicate?


It indicates that you need to adjust the idle speed to the correct figure.




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