Which Oil To Use
#31
Posted 11 February 2013 - 09:54 AM
or
millers 20w50 ctv?
#32
Posted 11 February 2013 - 12:13 PM
The reason it should be a 20w50 is twofold. The A-series engine was designed in the early 50's and the tolerances and clearances are wider than modern engines and the gearbox needs a thickish oil to survive. We are dealing with a 60-year old engine design here and the gearbox is an old design too.
Hence not only a 20w50, but a fully mineral based top quality one such as Penrite, Millers or Valvoline. It needs to be changed very regularly, like not more than 3000 miles between changes.
or comma classic, the green stuff :)
ive done 4k miles but it will be serviced within a fortnight
Edited by cal844, 11 February 2013 - 01:59 PM.
#33
Posted 11 February 2013 - 12:18 PM
No, avoid castrol classic XL and halfords (or comma classic) if you want high ZDDP since they've changed the spec to 800 ppm which is even lower than ANY reputable 10w40 synth oil.
If you want cheap, comma SONIC has a lot of zddp (even too much if you aks me)
cough cough.. i use comma classic 20/50 mineral, has done me 4k miles with no problems what so ever...
#34
Posted 11 February 2013 - 02:12 PM
No, avoid castrol classic XL and halfords (or comma classic) if you want high ZDDP since they've changed the spec to 800 ppm which is even lower than ANY reputable 10w40 synth oil.
If you want cheap, comma SONIC has a lot of zddp (even too much if you aks me)
cough cough.. i use comma classic 20/50 mineral, has done me 4k miles with no problems what so ever...
You can even do 4k miles using olive oil and have no issues..
And yes DILLIGAF you're right
#35
Posted 11 February 2013 - 02:19 PM
So every SPI and MPI was fitted with a catalytic converter therefore either the wrong oil is being specified or people have removed their catalytic converters and are assuming that everyone else has done likewise ?
#36
Posted 11 February 2013 - 03:29 PM
#37
Posted 11 February 2013 - 03:36 PM
10w40
Why do you keep on misleading people by saying this without any explanation or qualification?
For a Mini gearbox it is necessary to use a top quality 20w50.
You use 10w40 if you want to, but don't encourage others to make the same mistake.
For a 60-year old design gearbox a 20w50 is necessary.
Edited by Cooperman, 11 February 2013 - 03:36 PM.
#38
Posted 11 February 2013 - 03:37 PM
and it's not misleading at all.
to go around shouting only 20w50 is misleading.
#39
Posted 11 February 2013 - 03:55 PM
The gearbox is based on the original A35-type gearbox which needs a thicker gear oil. The A-series engine is a 60-year-old design which has different clearances from modern engines and also needs a thicker oil. The oil also needs a higher than current ZDDP level.
The original oil spec for a Mini was 30 grade in Summer and 40 grade in Winter. So the viscosity needs to be at least 20 grade at start up and to maintain a good viscosity right through the temperature range.
A 20w50 holds its viscosity until the point at which a straight 50 grade would start to thin out due to temperature. If the oil thins too much too early the gearbox will suffer and the consequential lower pressure around the crank bearings will lkead to higher bearing wear than with a thicker oil.
With the combiuned engine/gearbox the oil degrades more quickly as well, which is why the oil should be changed very frequently. A look at the magnetic sump plug debris will confirm tthe need to do this.
Now, that has taken out anything which anyone might have found misleading and explains it in some detail.
However, if anyone wants to still put 'weasel-p*ss' in their Minis, feel free to do so.
#40
Posted 11 February 2013 - 04:10 PM
I have seen swarf on sump plugs from various engined Minis.... no difference between grades or power output, they all seam to deteriorate at a similar rate.
Lets just put gear oil in them then and be done with it..... a nice thick 80EP grade should do it.
There will be more damage done to your engine or gearbox by not servicing on a regular basis than the choice of oil...
However I totally agree, we can use weasel p*ss and you can continue to be in the dark ages with your neat crude!
P.S. I was a sub contractor to Rover in the 80's & 90's, also to a few other Car companies, they all state 180 day invoicing that is standard with established suppliers.
#41
Posted 11 February 2013 - 04:23 PM
There is ONLY 1 reason rover started to recommend 10/40 and it's all to do with the ZDDP............
How about a full explanation ?
#42
Posted 11 February 2013 - 04:42 PM
Edited by mra-minis.co.uk, 11 February 2013 - 04:43 PM.
#43
Posted 11 February 2013 - 04:57 PM
millers 20w50 classic mini oil?
or
millers 20w50 ctv?
To answer your question....go for 20w50 ctv. The ctv additive is designed to look after the gearbox. This is what i use in my mpi. Expensive, but oil ischeaper than metal
#44
Posted 11 February 2013 - 05:23 PM
#45
Posted 11 February 2013 - 05:37 PM
Judging by some of the comments on this thread, the grade of oil is down to your own preference. Either way, change it regularly and you'll be fine.
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