467 replies to this topic

[1984mini25]

It was this one. https://www.ebay.co....bwIAK:rk:1:pf:0

 

I think, (as I didn't measure) the hole I was left with in the bulkhead was 1/4", witch is 6.4mm, as there was a slight bit of wiggle room. With the cable end being 8mm and the nut being m6, 10mm spanner size. And I shortened mine by about 5 mm, witch i new I'd have to as the 25mm ones were the shortest I could find.

[Wiggy]

Your 25 is just lovely. They've always caught my eye. Understated, yet definitely a Special Edition. My favourite SE of them all.

[paulsv24]

It was this one. https://www.ebay.co....bwIAK:rk:1:pf:0

 

I think, (as I didn't measure) the hole I was left with in the bulkhead was 1/4", witch is 6.4mm, as there was a slight bit of wiggle room. With the cable end being 8mm and the nut being m6, 10mm spanner size. And I shortened mine by about 5 mm, witch i new I'd have to as the 25mm ones were the shortest I could find.

 

Many thanks Karl.

[mini 25 matt]

The other wheel arch has now been given the same treatment, and I’ve just noticed I’ve missed a bit on the rear subframe. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was just wondering what is the red paint base coat you have used here is?

[1984mini25]

 

The other wheel arch has now been given the same treatment, and I’ve just noticed I’ve missed a bit on the rear subframe. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was just wondering what is the red paint base coat you have used here is?

 

 

 

Screwfix red oxide metal primer, but only where top coated with oil/enamel based paint or stone chip.

[1984mini25]

Well it seems I haven't updated this for 6 or so years. Well the good news is I still have the mini25 and it's just as shiny as it was when painted, and is still being used. Not as much as I'd have liked thanks to covid a few years back (couldn't go anywhere or go out) and more recent health issues I'll get too, but it's also not my main car and the mini is garaged (not heated) over the winter and doesn't get used unless I have to over winter months.

 

I'll try and keep it brief as this will be lengthy as it is. But the covid lockdowns lead to plenty of free time and an excuse to work on the mini. One job I did was to do the tried and tested screwfix roof flashing sound insulation behind the dash, front bulkhead, floors, rear seat and boot floor. Followed by some closed cell foam in the form of £3.99 decathlon yoga mats, think I used about 5 in total. Why yoga mats? Well they were easily available, cheap (the main reason) are closed cell foam, impact resistant and spill/liquid proof, ideal for a mini.

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A job that turned into one of those 'I wish I'd never started' as it took hours was I decided to refurbished and replace the stitching on the steering wheel. Removing the leather cover, unpicking all the original stitching and recolouring the leather (used a pot of leather colour due/barn for about a tenner) was the easy bit. Replacing all the stitching and lacing it back onto the wheel afterwards took about 8 hours, all done by hand. But the waxed nylon thread, so it won't fade and rot like the original only cost a fiver, so not an expensive restoration, just lengthy time wise. And it can't have been that bad, as I also did the same to a second spare steering wheel I have hanging in the garage. It's in better condition than the one in the car, but the one in the car is original and is scuffed and marked from use.

 

I also had to pull apart and replace all the front suspension bushes due to a heavy pull to the left, to the point of having to put oppose lock on, that only showed itself under heavy braking. I'm assuming it was the near side bottom arm/tie bar brushes even though they didn't look past it and nothing was picked up during a recent mot, the brake imbalance was all about the same, so the violent pull wasn't brake or calliper related.

 

I had some replica 'show' plates made up replicating the original rear number plate and front to match (which had long since been replaced before my ownership) which weren't cheap, but I got rather too excited that I could have a pair of number plates made with an exact copy of the original font, dealership info and square plate corners. 

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And after 14 years the standard replacement exhaust was starting to get a little too rusty at the tailpipe end (were the rear clamp was) and the internals of the rear box had gone. So I found the same again on eurocarparts for £60 in a half-price sale with free delivery. I also then spent a further £20 sanding and painting it on the lawn, before fitting using a better quality cast clamp bought from a Morris minor spares specialist, as the mini ones available aren't fit for purpose.

 

I had started to attend shows and stuff, but sticking to more local ones as the unexplained tiredness and general fatigue I'd been suffering with (was before covid but nowhere near as bad and just put it down to trying to do too much at times) was getting to the point id be tired just doing simple things or even falling asleep and feeling worse afterwards.

I'd had a blood test done in January 24 that showed 75% saturation, anything over 45% being an issue. But because someone had marked it as 'normal' it was ignored and was then led down the path of other blood tests that obviously weren't the issue and came back normal. It took 9 months and me paying for a private lot of blood tests (which were exactly the same) to finally get a referral. Unfortunately that has had mixed results, in that the saturation being high is being ignored, as with my iron being with normal range I'm not loading and suffering any organ damage at present. And in trying to bring the saturation down myself by cutting out all foods fortified with iron and red meat etc. that has also had a negative effect on other blood related levels that weren't high to begin with, so in some ways have ended up feeling no better.

 

Although, finally after 13 years of complaining about non inflammatory lower back pain I did finally have an MRI scan (more to shut me up/prove there wasn't anything wrong) which showed I have a torn and herniated disk in my lower back (L5-S1) and the protruded disk is in contact with the right nerve.

 

Unfortunately that hasn't been the end of my health issues, as during February I had a bad cold that lasted a few weeks with an added symptom of increasing blurred vision in my left eye. Which according to my local health centre was 'just a cold/migraine' and later turned out two weeks later during an eye test (which I was due anyway) was in fact the retina in my left eye detaching and I was in fact going blind/losing sight in that eye and needed urgent treatment. So one referral and consultation (with dilating eye drops) later to then find out that Milton Keynes hospital would be unable to do surgery for a couple of weeks and that because of the urgency I'd have to have another consultation (more drops ) and surgery at Saint Thomas's in central London.

 

I'll let you work out how expensive the taxi fares were getting to and from Milton Keynes to central London during peak hours several times in a week were. And even though the detachment was successfully reattached (lasered and gas) my retina wasn't done and detached again, but not in the same place, but because the gas that was floating around in my eye blocked out what vision I had, I couldn't tell it had detached and this time more seriously. So I had to go through it all over again with the trips back and forth to London daily, more laser, gas and a silicone band stitched to hold the retina in place and stop it detaching. This is my eye 2 days after the second surgery, I can't see anything out of it and am having to forcefully hold it open just to take the picture. You'll also be able to notice a bubble of the gas my eye was filled with.

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It's been two months now and my eye looks relatively normal, although if anyone has ever tried removing a sticker and tried re-sticking it and finding it doesn't and ends up wrinkled, well that's is what's happened to my retina. So although my retina (and macular that's responsible for central vision was off both times) is back where it should be, while it was detached it was starved of any blood supply and as it's impossible for it to go back exactly as it was before, it has left me with distorted vision in that eye which over time should sort itself out (already seen big improvements) and be blocked out by the still normal vision in my other eye.

The eye issues aren't over though, as because of the gas that was used during both surgeries to hold the retina in place as it heals, also has the effect of irritating the lens of the eye, so in the coming months I have the formation of a cataract to come in the same eye to look forward to. It's also probable that I'm to get further detachment's again and also in my other, at the moment good eye.

All of this has also meant the mini for the last 5 months has done zero miles, and I've also been unable to drive and haven't been out much with all the rest I've needed.

 

But onto the recent mini stuff. During a sort out I came across my old original front seat covers that I replaced with a pair in better condition a few years back and re-coloured piping (mine were starting to rip and go thread bare in a few places) Now I didn't want to just throw them out and I was never going to reuse them due to the rips that had been previously repaired, but the back sections of both front seats were still in relatively good condition for the age of the fabric and there might be enough piping from both covers to do something with. So I came up with the mad (and slightly expensive) idea to sit and spend 2 hours on each unpicking, 2 seat covers for the two back sections and piping. Which I then had the logo from an original mini25 carrier bag digitized and embroidered onto one of the sections, then the two pieces of fabric and piping turned into a one off matching scatter cushion made from the cars original seat fabric.

 

It wasn't cheap or easy, I had the embroidery done back in September/October and was then messed around with it being turned into a cushion (wanted the full amount upfront in cash, to which I only paid for the embroidery by card with the rest on completion and then they lost interest in progress) which I've only recently found someone else with an industrial sowing machine who was willing to take it on and finish.

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I've also finally managed to find a correct pair of mini25 parcel shelf speakers, which despite the seller claiming the speakers were in working condition, they weren't. But that did mean I got to trash the old speakers getting them out, (the two half's weren't coming unglued) having adapter rings 3d printed and 3" base drivers glued in from the front. The only differences are the mounting brackets and slightly different grill mesh, but nothing any normal person would notice. But I was able to sell on the ones I'd changed the speakers in and fitted 7 years ago to someone who's recently restored a mini 30 for a good price, which made up for slightly overpaying for these ones.

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But the big one. The 28th of April marked the 20th anniversary of a 20ish year old buying a rusty 20 year old mini to use as a daily runaround and still own it 20 years later (even if I can't currently drive it) and hear it is, the 'same' mini parked on the same driveway on the same date exactly 20 years apart. I can't take credit for taking the pictures (I was in the house resting) but they were taken using the same camera as 20 years ago (managed to get some life out of it) but with the better settings using modern rechargeable batteries, that still depleted within about 10 minutes.

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I had hoped on driving back to the original address of the previous owner I bought it from (long since sold/moved and only have a maiden name on the v5) which is only 32 miles away, but something that wasn't going to happen. Maybe later in the year, but I'll need someone to share the driving with just to be safe. Still if it's only worth what I paid for it (my first year’s insurance was £300 more than the car) adjusting for inflation would mean it's currently worth £1,586 today.

 

I had also been digging into the previous history I have, I've had limited success as any car checks (even the paid ones I tried) just brings up the same info from the last 20 years that I already know of and is available for free. I also refuse to pay for yearly membership to a Saint Albans mini club just for the use of a Facebook page to ask a question in the hope I get a usable response.

I had also hoped on attending two shows in areas that I know the car would have originally been both from new and later in its life. Unfortunately the cut-off date for entry is fast approaching, so nether of those shows are likely to happen. Well the shows will, just not with me attending.

 

 

 

[1984mini25]

Since my last update.

 

I’ve replaced the carpets that didn’t need replacing (actual I’ve never been happy with the quality of the budget miniSport charcoal set) with a minispares light grey set. Which to be honest I’m not entirely happy with either, it took me the best part of a week (still had eye issues) to trim and fit each piece, as not a single piece was the right size or shape to begin with using old carpet sections as templates. I would ideally love an original mini25 set (yes they are different for that of the Mayfair) but that’s unlikely to happen as I binned the originals 20 years ago. Although I probably should have kept them, as even in there filth encrusted and threadbare state they were in better condition than some sets I’ve seen for sale and sold.

 

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Something I kind of known about and sort of ignored previously, but as the mini had also been laid up for 8 months since last November and the more recent eye issues and not being able to drive etc. Is it had developed a habit of using a pint of oil every 50 miles. It only generally smoked a bit on start-up and on choke, clearing once warm, but also never really noticed any smoke while driving unless at full throttle at 5k to 5 half. (It’s a standard 998 so revving that high is pointless). I had looked into options towards the end of last year with whether to pull the engine out for a rebuild (not likely due to my health issues and cost) replacing just the piston rings (cost of £60) swap the engine out for a spare I’ve built (998 pockeded block with 1275 head and mg cam) but that’s more work and hassle, trying a £10 can of ‘stop smoke’ with the oil which made absolutely no difference, or the simpler option (in my head) replacing the cylinder head in the hope its worn valve guides.

 

As, back in December 2005 I bought a used, unknown mileage unleaded 998 head of a forum member for £40 and drove to Leicester in the mini to pick it up. That was 20 years ago and over 30k of slow, careful and gentle driving later.  The problem was 998 heads or engines aren’t as common as they once were (used to be given away for free) and used useable 998 heads aren’t cheap either. Reconditioned ones are even more expensive, but the issue with those is you need a good used one to send back in exchange, not great when the one already on the car isn’t usable. When by chance I spotted a boxed unused factory reconditioned unleaded 998 head for an A series metro on eBay, and rather than wait for it to end (and probably pay a bit less or get outbid) I paid the £120 by it now price. The only issue that dawned on me after it arrived (and I’d ignored) was being for a metro it had both no bypass (I’ve never had an issue running with the bypass blanked off) and the take off for the heater tap drilled, it didn’t even have the holes drilled for the studs. So another £70 later for 2 holes to be drilled and threaded later, expensive, but cheaper than if I’d ******* it up myself. Also it appears no one local stocks or sells the small tins of yellow hammerite, so £20 later on eBay for 250ml tin, my first tin was only £2.50 from the market 20 years ago.

 

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I finally was able to swap it over in June after spending another £120 on the new head gasket, other gaskets, studs, nuts and stuff. To then find myself 50miles later stuck in a car park in town on a Sunday afternoon after leaving a trail of petrol along the high street, with a stuck float, premium fuel being dumped onto the floor and a mini that wouldn’t run. As it turned out that during my head swap I spotted the short bit of fuel hose up by the carb had two splits in it (wasn't leaking) so I decided to change it. Could I find the length of new, but left of fuel hose I’d recently bought and used? Could I ****, so instead I used a piece of old but ok looking hose. Which was fine until it appears either from age of the ethanol content in the fuel it decided to disintegrate internally and block the float and internals of the carb. Still even while broken down and stinking of fuel it attracts attention, even if I slightly wasn’t in the mood at the time.

 

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Edited by 1984mini25, 14 October 2025 - 10:07 PM.

[1984mini25]

With the old head removed I did remove a few of the valves to check the wear on the valve guides out of curiosity. I don’t think you’re supposed to be able to wobble the valve in the guide (at the collet grove end) after removing the collets, top hat and spring? Either way the valve guides were ****ed, and where the valves had been flopping around in the guides the valve seats had all (the ones I’d bothered to remove) taken a pounding, so that head was done.

I have had a few issues since fitting the new head though, and one issue which may have already been there before hand, but has only recently become more apparent.

I’ve had the heater valve fail, but it was a 20 year old genuine one. But due to the quality of the modern replacements, which it appears has been an ongoing issue for the last 10 years I’ve chosen to fit an inline one (more expensive option) inside the car next to the steering column. It’s not as easy to adjust the temperature and the control cable in the dash is no longer functional, but it’s better than the option of having full coolant flow through the heater permanently.

I’ve also had it running hot unless the heater valve was fully open and scalded my arm releasing the cap to the radiator thinking it has cooled down enough after a drive, it also wasn’t overly hot on the gauge that time either. But hopefully I’ve sorted that issue now after sereval attempts at bleeding the system, otherwise I’m going to have to look at flushing the system again (was fine before having to drain the system for the head swap).

The main issue though is the lack of performance and feeling flat. Now this might have already been present when I switched over the points for a replacement ignition module and retaining the ballast coil setup and wasn’t driven much before its extended and unplanned layup. But since the head swap and more regular use and running a few tanks of opti pop e5 to flush through the stale fuel, it’s still lacing performance.

It was more apparent on the 40 mile trip (each way) to Stanford hall, were it would accelerate through the gears fine till above 45mph in 4^th and just felt flat and struggle to get to and maintain 50mph. Although minisport did annoy not willing to sell a pair of sill trims (I accidently stood/bashed the driver’s side one and bodged it duct tape) out of several kits until the end of the day (I wanted to save on the potage that was more than the item cost) and having to drive back in the downpour.

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Although the new sill rims ended up turning into a two week pita. You can’t buy nimbus/grey wheel arches and trim anymore only black, which is why all of mine is painted. The arches and trim on the car are painted in Rover hurricane grey 87-88, not the original trim colour, but what I chose back in 2007 (the spray cans were £2.50 at the time) and when I had the car resprayed back in 2017 I bought a job lot to redo all the trim. Unfortutaly between then and now that brand of paint no longer do colour matched can, just generic ‘closest match’ ones. I’ve used the nearest match on the bumpers and it is a lot darker but not quite as noticeable than the pics suggest, but it wouldn’t work for the sill trims unless I resprayed the 4 arches to match, something I didn’t want to do. I also can’t just run off to Halfords for a colour matched can as I don’t have a reg that matches to the rover hurricane grey and the small £2.50 cans are now £8 to £10 each on eBay. So I tried a colour matched can in a brand I’d used before from a seller on eBay (There’s no local places left anymore).

So I sanded the black sill strips, primed them (with a primer I’ve used before on plastic) and then sprayed the top coat once the can arrived. Only this is the ‘exact match’ of the recently sprayed sill trims against the hurricane grey of the wheel arches. It didn’t ****ing match. So back onto eBay and ordering the expensive cans I avoided before because of the cost, they arrived a week later after being lost by my Herpes. Scuffed up and resprayed the sill trims before heading off out Friday morning (so I have no excuse to come back to them and **** them up) only to then find that the paint could be peeled off the trims like dried pva glue.

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Great, its Friday morning and I’ve got two sill trims that need stripping, re-sanding, priming and then top coat, and I wanted the trims painted and fitted (not that anyone would notice) for a local show on the Sunday. So while heading off out for the weekly shopping I tried the one independent car spares place left locally for a can of plastic primer, nope didn’t have. Tried driving off to Halfords, they too had everything else but on the shelves. So drive back to do the weekly shop and try one last place that has recently been taken over by Napa. Nothing priced up (which I hate) and after nearly an hour waiting at the counter being ignored I finally had the one remaining can of plastic primer in Milton Keynes, the ironic thing is on the can the manufacture is based in Milton ****ing Keynes. But I got them repainted Friday afternoon, had them up in the house to dry overnight and trimmed and fitted Saturday afternoon.

The show on the Sunday wasn’t too bad after a rather damp start and came back to this upon leaving.

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I’ve also had the yearly mot, which it technically no longer requires, although I did get an unofficial advisory for one of my tyres (n/s front) as it was borderline/worn of the outer edge, although all the tyres are more worn on the outer edges and half worn with the n/s front being the worst (tread wear indicators just visible). So I’m now looking at another new set of tyres, as the rears are 2015 and the fronts are 2018, and from since checking the tracking with my trusty string I can’t see the extra 2mm of rear toe in on the driver’s side having much effect of the wear of the fronts, I think that’s more down to me pushing it harder in right hand corners and roundabouts.

And hopefully the new ignition parts I’ve just ordered help solve the lack of performance issues.

Edited by 1984mini25, 18 October 2025 - 06:15 PM.

[Designer]

Hi 1984mini25,

 

My daughter has a 1988 Mini Designer which has Nimbus Grey trims and like you I have had to replace some and could only get black.

Metal Flake in Chessington Surrey supplied me with rattle cans made to the correct Mini colour code for Nimbus Grey.

I gave them the code that is on the info plate in the engine bay and the colour match was perfect.

Admittedly they are only about eight miles as the crow flies from me but I believe you can order from them on line at  metalflake.com

 

Paddy

[1984mini25]

I don't have the nimbus paint code, but as prefer the Rover hurricane grey (or a shade close to) I'll stick with trying to source cans in those.

Ideally I'd have all the trim (bumpers, grill, arches and sill strips, mirrors, door and boot handles and boot lamp) off the car and resprayed professionally, but that's not going to happen anytime soon. 

 

Although at some point I will take the arches off along with the grill to freshen up those in the darker shade of grey. I'm hoping it's just the paint that has crazed all over the front grille (it's a pita to clean and polish, so sanding isn't going to be much fun) and not the powder coating primer that was done back in 2012. 

 

But since my last update the new ignition parts I ordered seam to have fixed my lack of performance and running issues. The variable dwell ignition module (that I wasn't aware of) running on a ballast system/coil was giving a really weak spark even with the module being fed 12v. So on the recommendation of Acdodd I've switched to a 1.5ohm ballast coil running a 12v feed. The fueling still isn't perfect (switched back to a standard/leaner needle) but it's much improved. 

 

I've also sold on my winter set of wheels and tyres (I'm not planning on laying it up much over winter unless it's really bad) and with the tyres being between 7 and 10 years old and recently discovered that the spare is from 2005, I've been looking around at 145/70 12 inch tyres. As it turns out the choices are both limited and expensive. One place I tried wanted £205 for 5 tyres including fitting for some budget/eco brand, or £25 per tyre to fit my own sourced tyres. The same place used to only charge £15 each a few years ago. 

 

But I've since found and bought a set of 5 budget tyres (chinese brand, but seam to be comparable to ones I've had in the past, but with the limited choices I can't be too picky) on eBay for £129. Although the delivery was less than smooth thanks to dpd. Because it was cheaper to buy 4 and one single the tracking showed 2 deliveries (no issues there) except they were delayed for a day for unknown reasons and when they were due to be delivered, neither delivery turned up at the expected time and the first to arrive was the set of 4, except there was only 2 in the large and oversized box. Lucky the other 3 turned up in the second delivery with the tracking for the single one. So it all worked out in the end, just was a bit of a headache trying to figure out what was going on. 

 

This has also lead to another dilemma, if all 5 tyres now need to be removed and replaced, do I get the wheels professionally redone at the same time? There only 12" steels, shouldn't be that hard should it? 

 

I've tried contacting powder coaters, which can do them, but can't remove or refit the tyres. And I've been trying places that refurb wheels, but a lot of them won't touch or do steel wheels, and the ones that do I've been getting quotes of £75 to £90 per wheel plus extra to do the tyre removal/fitting. There 12" steel wheels, not a set of oversized alloys with cracks/welding or need diamond cutting. They aren't even that rusty under the paint, just I've never been entirely happy with the hammerite/rattle can paint finish (ok for the cost, just crap paint) so at the moment I'm a bit stuck. 

[sonscar]

I have a cheap tyre fit/remove tool and with care it works.I bought from black circles four 134*70*12 iLink tyres and find them to perform well.Sucks relying on others some times but they took have families to feed.Steve..

[1984mini25]

The link ones were the others I was looking at (kinda found them after to be honest) but went for the Centaras. Both aren't as good as the Nankangs, with wet grip of C and D (the Nankangs are B) but both are a D on fuel compared with the Nankangs F (I have an old tyres sticker stuck to my toolbox) but the old Nankangs aren't available. I'll just have to see how they are once fitted. I know years ago people preferred the 145 Falken over the Nankangs, but I found the sidewalls of the Falkens a bit soft (I distroyed the inner outer sidewall as if they had been run flat at the correct pressure) and weren't all that good in the wet.

I'm all for someone making a living etc, but two of the quotes were £540 including vat and £630 including vat, both with the tyre fitting, but not the tyres. I've also had quotes for just the blasting and powder coating of the same, but without the tyre removal and refitting.

Still, one small bonus, dispite it not running 100% and because I'm having to use it for local trips etc again, I've worked out I'm getting nearly 40mpg, and that's even with me driving like a knob with other traffic.

Edited by 1984mini25, 15 October 2025 - 07:15 PM.

[1984mini25]

Well I had to go and jinx it, the running issues are back. Now I've previous had an issue with the manifold not sealing, so I've tried using 2 manifold gaskets. It hasn't worked, the manifold gasket is wet round both the inlets. I have also had issues with the nuts and studs loosening when hot, so I've retightend them once hot. But they don't seam to have losened and I don't want to go trying as I think I'll probably end up stripping threads etc.

Ideally I'd take the manifold off and have it skimmed. 2 issues with that, first I need the car for semi daily stuff and second the local machining place had a large fire in there unit towards the end of the summer so are out of action.

What would be best solution is to find a really good second hand one that's not stupid money (so that rules out eBay) and send it away to be skimmed and swap them over. Problem is, just how common are standard hs4 cast manifolds without the servo take off? I know it can be plugged, but it would be one less air leak to worry about. And nope I'm not putting a stage one kit on it for because reasons.

Edited by 1984mini25, 16 October 2025 - 02:32 PM.

[1984mini25]

Well after looking through eBay and Facebook yesterday afternoon and coming across what I'd consider to be overpriced scrap or one manifold, that was advertised as Nos that had exhaust paste on the downpipe flange sold for £80 I'd given up looking for one. That was until I spotted one on eBay advertised about 15 miles away. After sending a quick message I headed off (in the mini and thanks to the 55 plate zafira that had to 'brake check' every time there was an oncoming vehicle with nothing in front for most of the way) to meet and see the manifold in question that evening. Rather odd to then discover that it was someone I'd been chatting to at the last show I'd been to less than a fortnight ago.

It was advertised on eBay for £34 plus postage, but managed to get it for £20 cash to save the guy the eBay fees, postage etc, plus it was going to good use, as we both confirmed that the manifold gasket was indeed 'wet' round both inlet flanges.

I'm now stuck with finding somewhere or someone who can skim this one so I can swap them over. I've already scraped off the old gasket and it 'looks' ok, but I really don't want to be doing this job for a third or forth time.

Only issue is the local engineering place had a fire towards the end of the summer and as such is closed and out of action. I had found one 20 miles away, but got a reply that they'd need it for at least a week and at at a cost of £90 plus vat.

[1984mini25]

Some teaser pics until I can take some better ones, as unfortunately I've dropped my phone once too often recently and it's knackered the auto focus, but oddly the selfie and video modes are unaffected. 

 

But, I've had the tyres removed, the wheels dipped, blasted, etch primed, filled, primed, painted and lacquered. I'm just waiting on a day I'm free to take them to have the new tyres fitted. 

Attached Files

•  IMG_20251025_123500_5.jpg   47.19K   1 downloads
•  IMG_20251025_123506_5.jpg   46.22K   0 downloads
•  IMG_20251025_123556_7.jpg   46.42K   0 downloads
•  IMG_20251025_124427_0.jpg   32.05K   0 downloads

Edited by 1984mini25, 26 October 2025 - 09:34 PM.