18 replies to this topic

[athor]

Hey guys,

 

This is my first post here. I'm hoping you can help with an issue.

 

I've just put new brake shoes on my mini 1000 (1975). The back brakes wen't smoothly. But after fitting the new shoes to the front, I can't get the drum back on.

 

On the F/R I was able to get the drum on with a bit of force. The drum turns, but won't spin freely. On the F/L I can't get the drum on at all. 

 

I have made sure both adjusters on each side are backed off, and refit the shoes a few times. Comparing the new shoes to the old ones, they are the same except the new shoes have a thicker lining obviously.

 

Any ideas?

 

Cheers,

Josh

[Artful Dodger]

The drums will have developed wear through its life, this would have caused a lip on the edge of te friction surface on the drum. This can hold off the shoes when fitting new ones. Easy fix for this if te drums are not too worn (lip of about 2-3mm is to grind it off!

Also as its twin cylinder at the front, squeeze them back a bit, cap off master cylinder. Squeeze the wheel cylinders back, grind lip off drum, fully in adjusted and the drum should go on easy!

[Tamworthbay]

There has been a batch of slightly oversized shoes going round. There have been a couple of threads on here where people have tried everything and pulling their hair out because nothing worked. If ^^^^^ doesn't work then it might be worth looking at the shoes. Where did you get them from?

[athor]

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

The shoes are from the local mini parts shop - these are the ones - http://www.minispare...|Back to search.

 

I compared the new and old shoes and they are the same width.

 

The drums don't seem to have much of a lip. But I was able to fit the drum on one side, although it was quite tight. So maybe I need to get the drums honed. 

 

For now I have put the old shoes back on.

[bpirie1000]

Switch drums on side see if its the same... Take it the hand brake pins are in the shoes....

[Dan]

 this would have caused a lip on the edge of te friction surface on the drum. This can hold off the shoes when fitting new ones

 

 

 

  The lip that forms is not additional material, it's the original size of the drum and so should still clear.  It stops the drum coming off because sometimes the shoes hang up on it when you try to back off the adjusters and if the wear is deep enough for that then you need new ones, but it should always clear new shoes when going on.

[Frisco]

What he said. The lip shouldn't stop the drum from going on if the shoes are adjusted back fully.
Also if the lip is big enough the drum needs to be either fully refaced on a lathe or replaced do not take a grinder to it.

[Rog46]

 this would have caused a lip on the edge of te friction surface on the drum. This can hold off the shoes when fitting new ones

 
 
  The lip that forms is not additional material, it's the original size of the drum and so should still clear.  It stops the drum coming off because sometimes the shoes hang up on it when you try to back off the adjusters and if the wear is deep enough for that then you need new ones, but it should always clear new shoes when going on.

I must disagree the lip is invariably corroded, and as the iron rusts it expands. So there is extra material and you can usually chip it off, grinding will be quicker but don't remove good metal!

[Artful Dodger]

 this would have caused a lip on the edge of te friction surface on the drum. This can hold off the shoes when fitting new ones

 
 
  The lip that forms is not additional material, it's the original size of the drum and so should still clear.  It stops the drum coming off because sometimes the shoes hang up on it when you try to back off the adjusters and if the wear is deep enough for that then you need new ones, but it should always clear new shoes when going on.

Yeah I know that would be magic:P. it still makes it a complete arse fight to get them on and even worse to get em off. He did say there wasn't much of a lip so this can't be the issue anyways:).

Have to squeezed the wheel cylinder pistons back? Are hy all the way back or has the cylinder seized?? You should be able to rotate each piston freely with a screwdriver

[Dan]

  That is probably the issue, they are frequently stubborn to return to the fully closed position, especially if the pistons are a little corroded or the hoses old and tired.  With 2 cylinders per side it would be easy to leave one a little way out.

 

I must disagree the lip is invariably corroded, and as the iron rusts it expands. So there is extra material and you can usually chip it off, grinding will be quicker but don't remove good metal!

 

 

 

  Removing the corrosion should be standard practice for a brake overhaul, it still leaves the lip behind.  I'll reiterate the above, do not take a grinder to your brakes at all.  When Martin at MRA was a regular member here he used to tell tales of the several times he has had to provide engineers reports to insurers and the Police following fatal accidents resulting from botched brakes.  It doesn't take much time with the grinder the get the inside of the drum seriously out of round and then as soon as you touch the brakes they can grab and lock up on, say the offside front wheel while you are on the motorway.  Flinging you into the central reservation.  Not worth it.  

Edited by Dan, 15 September 2013 - 01:40 PM.

[Artful Dodger]

But if you are grinding the lip off that isn't actually in contact with and shoe surface then there is no problem. If you can wield a grinder with skill and won't touch the friction surface then it will be fine. I've don't it loads and no cars have crashed on my account!!

[JustSteve]

The best tool imo is a flap wheel in a drill. The type that's like a drum

[Frisco]

The brakes take a lot of stress and heat cycles. You would have no clue what damage that could be done with a grinder. I wouldn't put a grinder near any part of the brakes.

[Artful Dodger]

Well then the hundreds of drums I've done must have broken and been useless..

Oh wait. Naah theyre fine!! The heat put into them through friction is far greater than what I could do with a grinder I assure you.


We test them on the brake roller tester after aswell to make sure they're adjusted properly and they always are fine on that.

[100ev8]

swop shoes to other side. see what happens