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Engine Wont Turn


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#76 Dusky

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 04:22 PM

What distributor does it have?
Whats the state of the head?

grtz

#77 fattasss

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 07:52 PM

hello,

what do u mean which distruboter,

the head is good will need a clean, that's all.



#78 fattasss

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 07:54 PM

I can post pics of the distributor if u interested..

 

by the way..

whats the easiest way to take the mini engine out...



#79 Dusky

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:08 PM

From what year is the car?
Start by removing carb, in/ex manifold,remove radiator , undo top and bottom engine steadys, remove air duct.
undo gear linkage under car.

now attach a hoist or similar, then undo the engine mount bolts(2 under each wing) and you can start lifting it out..., when engine is higher, unscrew the speedo cable at the gearbox

#80 fattasss

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:23 PM

hi, the car is a 1991 rover mini STUDIO 2



#81 fattasss

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:24 PM

How do I remove the driveshafts?



#82 Dusky

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:24 PM

you will have to wiggle at the brake servo then when taking engine out ^^

#83 KernowCooper

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:41 PM

The drive shafts are retained in the diff by a internal spring clip and the factory tool works like this, but you can use a lever against a bolt head carefully, break the ball joint and remove the hub nut and take the shafts out, some move the engine left right and remove them that way, but you still need to overcome the circlip retaining the shaft to  the diff shaft.

Attached Files



#84 Dusky

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:42 PM

driveshafts : undo 1 balljoint( best bottom one if i remember wel) then open the inner pot joints gaitor( or slice them open when fitting a new one) and you can just pull the shafts out then, make sure to support them afterwards so your brake lines dont snap

#85 fattasss

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:53 PM

The clyclinder head is a 12g940


Edited by fattasss, 23 February 2014 - 10:54 PM.


#86 KernowCooper

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 11:14 PM

driveshafts : undo 1 balljoint( best bottom one if i remember wel) then open the inner pot joints gaitor( or slice them open when fitting a new one) and you can just pull the shafts out then, make sure to support them afterwards so your brake lines dont snap

 

What ! why slice open the pot joint gaiter!       that might be ok in a scrap yard

 

The correct way is to use the tool above in my post or insert a lever behind the pot joint and the head of a bolt and lever it free.



#87 Dusky

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 11:27 PM


driveshafts : undo 1 balljoint( best bottom one if i remember wel) then open the inner pot joints gaitor( or slice them open when fitting a new one) and you can just pull the shafts out then, make sure to support them afterwards so your brake lines dont snap

 
What ! why slice open the pot joint gaiter!       that might be ok in a scrap yard
 
The correct way is to use the tool above in my post or insert a lever behind the pot joint and the head of a bolt and lever it free.
I literally said slice it when fitting new ones... I sliced mine too, replaced everything and regreased etc while I had room to do it..

#88 Mr Joshua

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 04:01 PM

I'll see you later but one other thing you could try. Get a nice large piece of wood and a very heavy hammer. Your pistons are near level which indicates your crank journals are horizontal. Give each piston several sharp blows, this should free the rings.

#89 fattasss

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 12:51 AM

I have forked out for a another full/complete engine/gearbox with  known history and will be fitting this very soon, 



#90 wile e coyote

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:13 PM

Just a quick OT...... check this thread -

 

http://www.theminifo...e-are-they-now/

 

think your car - or one very similar is pictured......if it is - it moved! - once ;-)






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