TBF the problem with BG doing a flush is that they like others do it all in one go and the pump crud may have been built up already. The best thing to do, which I would if it was my house would be to drain it all down then refill it with fresh water just by venting the radiators, run it then drain it again as that will at least get rid of the worst. After that put a bottle of cleaner in and run it for about a week before draining it all down again, then fill it up and add a bottle of inhibitor first. After a few weeks of bleeding the rads it should run nice and quiet plus your boiler,pipework and new pump will be much happier!
To add any of the chemicals at each stage on an open vented sytem the best way is to drain it all down then shut the drain tap off, put the whole bottle into the header tank, its probably in the loft and might need a good clean using a bucket and sponge before filling up to stop the crap from there going into the system and make sure it has a lid too even a piece of plywood will do. Make sure you dont put it in the header for the hot water tank!
You can use the ball ******* on the header tank rather than shutting the water off to the whole house, just tie it up with some string or see if it has a ball valve to close it.
If it looks really bad on the very first drain down the best thing would be to put the cleaner in for a week or two but no more as its very harsh! then close all the radiator valves with the sytem full, open the drain off but let the header tank keep filling it back up, open just one radiator pair of valves and give the bottom edge a tap with a rubber mallet, watch to see if the water runs black then progressively clearer, if it does close that one and repeat on every radiator, drain and refill with new inhibitor. That works almost as well as a power flush on a sealed system as the incoming water pressure practically power flushes each radiator but its still worth doing on your system if its really grotty.
I hope that helps? 
Edited by CityEPete, 15 May 2014 - 06:13 PM.