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Any Plumbers/ Boiler Experts On Here?


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#31 Tamworthbay

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 04:42 PM

Attached File  image.jpg   66.1K   6 downloadsAttached File  image.jpg   52.72K   8 downloads
Couldn't get the bolt out but have managed to get the cover off. Pics above. Doesn't look pretty but the impeller wasn't seized. Not sure about the motor as I didn't want to run it as was. There doesn't seem to be a way for the motor to connect to the impeller (assuming impeller is the brown funky bit left on the wall in the housing.

#32 CityEPete

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 05:14 PM

Ha ive never bothered stripping them! Does that bit turn?

#33 Tamworthbay

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 05:21 PM

Ha ive never bothered stripping them! Does that bit turn?

the plastic bit in the bit still attached to the wall does, but the body doesn't seem to but it was so crapped up its hard to tell if I am honest. Looks like a new pump is in order I am guessing!

#34 CityEPete

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 05:21 PM

Looks like a flush out and some fresh inhibitor might be worth doing before fitting a new pump?

#35 CityEPete

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 05:22 PM

I think it might have sheared off anyway?

#36 Tamworthbay

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 05:40 PM

Looks like a flush out and some fresh inhibitor might be worth doing before fitting a new pump?

  

I think it might have sheared off anyway?

it was supposed to have been done 8 months ago (ish) by British gas, doesn't look like it to me. I know how to drain the system down, but how do you add the inhibitor and is it just a case of turning the water back on to refill the system? As for the pump shearing, I had wondered that too, there doesn't seem to be any physical connection between the two parts and I can't see how it could work like that.

#37 CityEPete

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 06:12 PM

TBF the problem with BG doing a flush is that they like others do it all in one go and the pump crud may have been built up already. The best thing to do, which I would if it was my house would be to drain it all down then refill it with fresh water just by venting the radiators, run it then drain it again as that will at least get rid of the worst. After that put a bottle of cleaner in and run it for about a week before draining it all down again, then fill it up and add a bottle of inhibitor first. After a few weeks of bleeding the rads it should run nice and quiet plus your boiler,pipework and new pump will be much happier!

 

To add any of the chemicals at each stage on an open vented sytem the best way is to drain it all down then shut the drain tap off, put the whole bottle into the header tank, its probably in the loft and might need a good clean using a bucket and sponge before filling up to stop the crap from there going into the system and make sure it has a lid too even a piece of plywood will do. Make sure you dont put it in the header for the hot water tank!

 

You can use the ball ******* on the header tank rather than shutting the water off to the whole house, just tie it up with some string or see if it has a ball valve to close it.

 

If it looks really bad on the very first drain down the best thing would be to put the cleaner in for a week or two but no more as its very harsh! then close all the radiator valves with the sytem full, open the drain off but let the header tank keep filling it back up, open just one radiator pair of valves and give the bottom edge a tap with a rubber mallet, watch to see if the water runs black then progressively clearer, if it does close that one and repeat on every radiator, drain and refill with new inhibitor. That works almost as well as a power flush on a sealed system as the incoming water pressure practically power flushes each radiator but its still worth doing on your system if its really grotty.

 

I hope that helps? :-)


Edited by CityEPete, 15 May 2014 - 06:13 PM.


#38 CityEPete

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 06:15 PM

I cant beleive it blocks b.a.l.l.c.o.c.k



#39 Tamworthbay

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 06:18 PM

I cant beleive it blocks b.a.l.l.c.o.c.k

I know, made me laugh! thanks for the info. I have PMed Blacktulip about the pump but may have to get one sooner as looks like we might have an issue with the immersion heater. It never rains but it pours.......

#40 CityEPete

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 06:37 PM

Oh no!



#41 Tamworthbay

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 07:13 PM

Sorted the immersion heater. Someone had turned the stat on it down to 40 degrees. The only people who have been in the loft are me and BG, can't think why they would of touched it but I know I haven't. Anyway we now have hot water at least which gives me time to sort the pump.

#42 CityEPete

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 07:15 PM

Good work. At least it is the right time of year to be playing around draining down the system etc :-)



#43 Tamworthbay

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 07:29 PM

Good work. At least it is the right time of year to be playing around draining down the system etc :-)

that's the only good thing, we have hot water and the heating hasn't been on since February, would have been a lot worse in the middle of winter. Any suggestions for decent quality pumps?

#44 craigr91

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 07:35 PM

Grundfos all the way for me

And double check any written stuff you have on your powerflushin from British gas, they now come with lifetime guarantee and I've done many a flush FOC to customer on behalf of BG when installing new boiler?

Hopefully you can get it re-done too

Still struggling I could come replace pump maybe Sunday as I'm going that way dropping a mini off?

Lemme know :)

Cheers

#45 Tamworthbay

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 07:39 PM

Grundfos all the way for me
And double check any written stuff you have on your powerflushin from British gas, they now come with lifetime guarantee and I've done many a flush FOC to customer on behalf of BG when installing new boiler?
Hopefully you can get it re-done too
Still struggling I could come replace pump maybe Sunday as I'm going that way dropping a mini off?
Lemme know :)
Cheers

Thanks mate! Looking at it it seems straightforward enough. Any tips?




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