13 replies to this topic

[gwilty755]

My 1989 Flame Red was always a perfect runner, until I needed fresh front tyres in the winter. 

 

After the fronts were fitted, the car steered to the right slightly but I had to leave for uni after the holiday.

 

3 months later, I got it booked in to fix the tracking which was apparently in by over 10mm, causing wear on the outside of each tyre. 

 

The tracking was "fixed" and new tyres fitted but now it steers to the left A LOT. My mechanic said "it's not the worst I've driven but I can't see anything wrong with it".

 

Under breaking, the car straightens out - meaning I end up steering to the right because of correcting for the pulling. 

 

The break pads are slightly worn, with the right side more so than the left but they don't seem too bad.

 

I'm using 31 PSI in each tyre, but they slowly deflate and get to around 28 by the end of a week... not sure which problem is causing which.  

 

In addition, a grinding sound happens when I'm in full left lock whilst reversing. All stock suspension, with the track rod ends changed last year. Running on 12" rims with standard discs on the front and drums on the back. Any ideas? I just want it to be safe to drive!

Edited by gwilty755, 04 August 2014 - 02:33 PM.

[cal844]

Set the tracking to 0.7° toe OUT on the front...

 

are the ball joints worn? 

 

The clicking will be the CV joint(s)

[gwilty755]

Thanks, I'll check them out. I think I've got a 0.1° or 0.2° toe out, but I'm not sure - my mechanic said he prefers less of a toe but maybe its time for a new guy!

[cal844]

Thanks, I'll check them out. I think I've got a 0.1° or 0.2° toe out, but I'm not sure - my mechanic said he prefers less of a toe but maybe its time for a new guy!

Its all down to your driving style!

[Yoda]

If the steering only started pulling after the tyres were fitted I would suspect that the fitter jacked the car up by the tie rods and bent one or both of them. This would alter the castor angle an cause the steering to pull.

[gwilty755]

Had a quick look at the tie rods and they seemed straight and the outer CV rubbers looked fine but couldn't see the inner ones. I'll have a proper look tomorrow with more time and might get a second opinion from a different mechanic. Thanks for your help guys! Anything else I can look out for? 

[Cerberus]

When you say it steers to the left, is it pulling to the left or is the wheel just off centre?

 

Could it be that the front and rear wheels aren't lined up.

 

 

Might want to check the front subframe mounts too, my rear mounts on the front subby were pretty much shot and was causing juddering under braking and I think also contributed to my occasional odd feeling I got when cornering.

 

 

Perhaps with the fact that it straightens up when braking, maybe it's worth checking the pistons in the calipers are all working and moving freely.

Edited by Cerberus, 04 August 2014 - 07:08 PM.

[gwilty755]

It is pulling to the left while under acceleration and speed meaning I need to steer right by around 5-10° depending on road camber. 

 

I checked the offside wheel under full left lock this morning and it seems to be rubbing against the subframe just in front of the door slightly. Definitely wasn't doing that before, so I'll get that checked along with the rest of the suggestions above. 

[cal844]

What to do is take the car a drive, stop the car on level ground and push the car, does roll ok or does it take alot of effort

[jime17]

Are the tyres on the front directional and are they fitted for the correct direction of rotation?

[firstforward]

What to do is take the car a drive, stop the car on level ground and push the car, does roll ok or does it take alot of effort

 

And?

[sonikk4]

I think what he's trying to say is to see if there is any resistance, try jacking the car up and rotate each wheel in turn. If any of them are binding then you have issues with your brakes. The fronts could be a sticky piston and the back may need the drums to be adjusted.

If there is a clicking noise coming from the front when on hard lock thus will be a CV joint worn. You cannot see this just by looking at the gaiter unless of course it's split and there's grease everywhere.

If the front brake pistons are not binding then check for play in the wheel bearing and the ball joints.

[firstforward]

Yes I understood the point but lets be a bit more specific and lay out a plan of action of diagnosis. The car is pulling to the N/S, with a more worn O/S brake pad that would suggest the O/S has a sticking brake caliper which is not conducive to a N/S pull. Also the OP has said nothing about a clicking but a grinding so that is a wild goose chase on a CV.

 

Neil all that you have mentioned is better looked at with a trolley jack than going for a ride. Going for a ride will not tell you much at all except that you need to get out a trolley jack.

 

It might be that as new track rod ends were fitted, whoever fitted  might not have fitted the track rods on the threads the same amount so the rack centring might be out giving you that sub-frame rubbing,

[gwilty755]

my tyres are Hifly 155/70/12R on the front, but when I search tyre websites for new tyres on 12" rims they suggest 145, maybe that could contribute? 

 

I will get the jacks out later tonight to check how the wheels spin - it's funny you should mention about the track rod ends; they needed replacing after my last MOT. Do they come in different sizes for different setups? Or maybe my mechanic put them on slightly wrong as you said. I'll definitely follow that up - Thanks!