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Ignition Coil Wires


Best Answer dklawson , 08 August 2014 - 05:23 PM

OK, in the picture above, you do indeed show that the distributor has points.  Follow the wire leaving the distributor and connect it to coil (-) regardless of where it is connected now.

 

The white/yellow and white/pink wires go on coil (+).  If you have a white/black wire (and if the white/black wire is not connected to the one leaving the distributor...) leave the white/black wire disconnected and taped off for now.  It may be for a tachometer if fitted.

 

You asked how to know the firing order.  Go back to page 1 of this thread and the link I posted for the FAQ article.  It shows the cylinder order and the FACTORY orientation of the plug wires around the cap.  You need to confirm if this is still correct for your car.  How?  Download and read my PDF on static timing (link below).  To be accurate there is more to static timing than pointing the rotor in the general direction of a certain lug on the distributor cap. 

 

Don't assume the distributor drive gear in the block is in the correct orientation to go by the factory positions for the plug wires on the cap.  Read my PDF. The later section of the document will explain how to find and confirm piston #1 is near TDC on its FIRING stroke and how to position the spark plug wires based on what you find.   (Page 5, Firing Order).

 

So... look at the picture in the FAQ link. 

Read the PDF on static timing.

Find the static timing location around 5 to 8 BTDC for #1 on its firing stroke.

Pay attention to the section discussing placing plug wires around the dizzy cap.  (PDF Page 5, Firing Order).

Place the plug wires in the necessary locations on the cap (based on your findings... not what the factory pictures show)

Set the static timing.

Test for spark at a spark plug by removing a plug, resting it on the cylinder head, and turning the engine over on the starter.

 

www.sites.google.com/site/purlawson/home/files/StaticTiming%5B1%5D.pdf

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#31 BronkoMini

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 05:23 PM

I have followed the guide, I had the plugs the wrong way round, I have set the timing according to the file 5 BTDC and there's still no spark, there is power getting to the coil but nothing going to the distributor, so perhaps the coil has packed up because I had the wires the wrong way round?  



#32 Dan

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 05:27 PM

Unlikely, have you set the points? Check that they still actually do open.

Edited by Dan, 09 August 2014 - 05:28 PM.


#33 BronkoMini

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 05:30 PM

Unlikely, have you set the points? Check that they still actually do open.

Contact breaker points?



#34 Dan

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 05:51 PM

Yes.

#35 BronkoMini

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 05:53 PM

Yes.

Checked that, following the haynes manuals instruction it said to check there if power from the middle ht lead to the dizzy, it said to hold the end of it 5mm from the block and a spark should jump from it to the block, I tried that and there was no spark.



#36 Dan

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 05:58 PM

Coils tend not to fail, and in this case it wasn't actually your coil that was wired wrong. It was the dizzy that had constant power fed to the points, in fact there was no circuit through your coil at all. That's not to say your coil hasn't failed, but it's more likely to be the points or condenser. Condensers are generally the villain with points ignition problems. Do you have a meter?

#37 BronkoMini

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 06:02 PM

Coils tend not to fail, and in this case it wasn't actually your coil that was wired wrong. It was the dizzy that had constant power fed to the points, in fact there was no circuit through your coil at all. That's not to say your coil hasn't failed, but it's more likely to be the points or condenser. Condensers are generally the villain with points ignition problems. Do you have a meter?

volt meter?



#38 Dan

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 06:06 PM

Multimeter really. You can test the coil primary to see if it's breaking down internally, and test for shorts to earth where there shouldn't be.

#39 BronkoMini

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 06:14 PM

Multimeter really. You can test the coil primary to see if it's breaking down internally, and test for shorts to earth where there shouldn't be.

I don't have one. I'm going to have to take it to a mini specialist Monday. Thanks for the help though.



#40 BronkoMini

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Posted 13 August 2014 - 06:55 PM

Got it working

#41 BronkoMini

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Posted 13 August 2014 - 06:56 PM






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