12 replies to this topic

[Chelsea_Pete]

Hi all, first time poster here.

 

Had my 1986 mini chelsea with 1275cc upgrade about 4 years now, came fitted with stage 1 exhaust but not inlet manifold or airfilter.

 

When I (at long last) decided to fit the stage 1 inlet (maniflow)  I have found that the carb now fouls against the bulkhead with no room to spare, even without the air filter.

 

Taking out the spacer between the inlet and carb means the 4 fixing bolts are too long & doesnt solve the problem.

 

Initial thoughts are that my engine is sitting too far back, (perhaps due to the stabilizer bar or plate this fixes to, which I can see has had work done on in the past)?

 

A bit stuck as these parts were supplied with the car, but without fitting instructions.

 

Thanks in advance!

Pete

[Alex_B]

What inlet manifold came off? As the standard manifold on a mini is a cast iron jobby with inlet and exhaust formed together, if it had the stage one exhaust (I'm assuming you mean lcb manifold) then it likely had a separate inlet manifold unless when fitting the exhaust they hacked up the standard cast item go only use the inlet portion?

[jaydee]

Its pretty normal and thats why rover moved the engine about 1/2 inch forward when fitted the 1275 engine, and that using a manifold 'shorter' than aftermarket stage 1 manifolds.

You can buy a shorter spacer from minispares that will overcome the problem in most cases

What carb are you using?

[Chelsea_Pete]

Hi,

Yes Alex its a maniflow lcb,  it had a pretty dodgy looking separate inlet already on which had clearly been hammered about a bit to fit it in,  but i don't think it was the standard cast iron item hacked up. This old one curved up slightly to give the carb more space, whereas the new piece doesnt.

 

Jaydee, The carb is a Hif44, will look into that smaller spacer as sounds like that might do the job!

[jaydee]

With the HIF44 theres a chance it still wont fit due to the shape of the float chamber, its really depending on how big is the inlet manifold

If dont fit you might try the mg metro manifold

[carbon]

Pete,

 

I have had to change length of the engine stabiliser bar to overcome similar problem in the past.

 

The solution I used was to make home-made adjustable stabiliser (the one which does from the flywheel end of the block to the bracket near the brake/clutch master cylinder.

 

For this I cut stabiliser bar in half, drilled and tapped both parts 1/4UNF then used stud to put back together at suitable length. Works but you may also need to make sure thet you are not putting undue stress on exhaust manifold when altering the angle of the engine.

[Fast Ivan]

not wishing to put down carbons idea; I love the idea of coming up with your own solutions, however if your not so inclined to make your own, there's these

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a4b33fa56

 

ditch the poly bushes though

[carbon]

Thanks Rob, when I made this adjustable engine steady up about 25 years back there was not such a wide selection of 'goodies' on the market. And I was a student at the time so every penny was a prisoner...

 

Pete - the other thing worth checking on your car is that the correct length of engine steady is fitted for your set-up. There are two lengths of engine steady listed in the Minispares catalogue, 21A1817 for '1275 plus automatics' is 1/2 inch longer than 21A1109 for '998'. If your engine is not vertical with the steady connected then it is possible that the wrong one has been fitted at some point.

[Chelsea_Pete]

Thanks again chaps, sounds as if that engine steady bar could be it, on closer inspection mine is the 21A1109, whoever upgraded her to 1275 must have neglected to use the longer bar! Will see if new bar sorts out my problem

 

Any advantage of the adjustable version over standard? 

[Fast Ivan]

the advantage is that you can remove nearly all the movement of the engine, but try not to pull it to far in any direction though

[carbon]

Pete,

 

I have been told that the longer 21A1817 engine steady bar is used on the later 1275's when the engine was moved forward by about 1/2 inch to give more bulkhead clearance (engine mount holes in subframe are further forward to move the engine).

 

Unless your front subframe has been changed for a later one the chances are the 21A1109 steady should be the right length to get the engine vertical, but with the different inlet manifold you may get the carb fouling the bulkhead.

 

You may not need as much as 1/2 inch extra length in the steady to get the carb-bulkhead clearance, this is where the adjustable steady comes into its own. Also when changing the angle of the engine check that you are not putting undue stress on either the exhaust or the gearbox rod change levers.

[Chelsea_Pete]

Thanks again for the advice carbon & Rob, I have ordered the adjustable steady bar, will update after fitting!

 

Pete

[Chelsea_Pete]

Update: All fits with the adjustable bar - just!  

 

The air filter is still right up against the bulkhead though, will get a smaller spacer if it gives me any trouble.

could maybe have moved it out further but didnt want to put too must stress on the exhaust as you said carbon.

 

Thanks again all