20 replies to this topic

[mr dirty money]

I have a 1976 Clubman and am told that that was the year that the mechanical switch was first used on all Minis.  Mine has the hydro switch that was used pre-76.  Does anyone know if that is standard for Clubmans to have the old switch or if mine is actually a 1975 or older?  Any help would be welcome for the future of parts ordering etc.

[Spider]

Gee, at a 76 with a Hydraulic Switch, it must be an early 76! It would be among the last, but none the less, if that's what it has, that's what it has.

 

The Hydraulic Switches were the same from start to finish, however they new switches that are commonly available don't seem to last to long, a few months at best, though I did manage to get 14 months from one of mine!

 

Hella make a Hydraulic Replacement Switch as a direct replacement. These are good quality, but I find I have to have them ordered in. Hella P/N 4565.

 

[mr dirty money]

Haha thanks, Spider.  I'm pretty sure it is an early 76; it was first registered in Feb 76 and still has and unleaded cylinder head on her. I appreciate the info and have a new switch on order now.  Pretty simple to make sure it was the switch as I just connected the two wires and behold the brake lights were lit.  Love these old minis!

[mr dirty money]

Gee, at a 76 with a Hydraulic Switch, it must be an early 76! It would be among the last, but none the less, if that's what it has, that's what it has.

 

The Hydraulic Switches were the same from start to finish, however they new switches that are commonly available don't seem to last to long, a few months at best, though I did manage to get 14 months from one of mine!

 

Hella make a Hydraulic Replacement Switch as a direct replacement. These are good quality, but I find I have to have them ordered in. Hella P/N 4565.

 

Spider, when I change this do I need to bleed the brakes afterwards or is it a simple and straight swap?  

 

Thanks,

-Money

[nicklouse]

most likely just the front. depends on the layout. but you might get away with just replacing it.

 

in that there is no reason you should have to bleed the brakes but i would seal the filler cap to stop the system draining and make sure the resivoir is full befor starting or you will be bleeding the system.

 

why? the resi cap has a breather. reove the switch and the system could drain if 1 you are not quick enought changing the switch or the level is low and air gets in.

[Cooperman]

If you have help, the best way to change that switch without having to re-bleed is as follows:

Wrap a piece of rag around the union below the switch to catch hydrylic fluid overspill.

Undo the switch and get your assistant to put his/her finger over the aperture to stop the fluid leaking out.

Locate the new switch just into the first thread and get your assistant to push the brake pedal VEY slowly, but with a continuous pus whilst you screw the new switch in. The switch must be fully screwed in before the pedal can reach full travel.

Finally tighten the switch, remove the now damp piece of rag, clean the area with brake & clutch cleaner and 'jobsagoodun'.

No air could have got in so no re-bleeding necessary.

[mr dirty money]

I'll have to pick up some brake fluid and some cleaner and give these a go.  I'll try and get it done without having to bleed the brakes.

 

Thanks, fellas.

[Spider]

Cooperman's suggestion is a good one for sure. I recon I'm a lazy bastard though, 9 times out of 10, I have swapped them and not need to bleed them. I get the new switch on the 'ready' thoughly wet the area around the switch with water, then undo the old one while keeping a bit of down pressure on it, it leaks a little less then through the threads, then quickly off then on with the new one, doing the same. The times I've ended up with air in the system from this, I just slacken the switch off again, then have someone put a little pressure on the pedal, the air and fluid will come out through the threads. it won't (or shouldn't!) need much.

[mr dirty money]

Thanks, Spider.  I was wondering if that was a possibility seeing as how the switch is at a pretty low point in the system.  Gravity forcing the fluid out of the hole should keep air from flowing in as long as it doesn't gurgle and bubble.  I was going to wait til this weekend when I can get a friend over but maybe I'll just try it lone ranger style. If worse comes to worse my 4 yr old could help and put pressure on the pedal; he's helped me do it on the wife's minivan. 

 

-Money

[Spider]

 my 4 yr old could help and put pressure on the pedal; he's helped me do it on the wife's minivan. 

 

-Money

 

Ha, how cool!  yeap, teach 'em young, I bet he loves helping dad

[carbon]

I used to run a 'P' reg Clubman Estate, first registered in '76, and I'm pretty sure that had the hydraulic switch fitted

[mr dirty money]

 

 my 4 yr old could help and put pressure on the pedal; he's helped me do it on the wife's minivan. 

 

-Money

 

Ha, how cool!  yeap, teach 'em young, I bet he loves helping dad

 

Yeah he does love helping out.  Whenever I do work on the motorcycles or any vehicle he wants to be involved.  He loves this mini too; he always wants to go for rides in it.

[mr dirty money]

I used to run a 'P' reg Clubman Estate, first registered in '76, and I'm pretty sure that had the hydraulic switch fitted

Good to know I'm not the only one.  I've read that they just kinda used all the old stuff til it was gone even after they made the conversions.

[Cooperman]

My Grandson loved helping me in the workshop when he was three-and-a-half. He learned quickly and now he is 20 and we are doing a complete MGB-GT restoration together.

My son was pretty-much the same and now he is a design consultant in F1 and has just finished an assignment at Mercedes F1.

Start 'em young and keep 'em keen. And it's such a pleasure working with young people.

[Spiffingly Good]

We restored a late 78 clubman and that was fitted with a hydraulic switch