Video to me shows nothing? I was hoping to see it turned to TDC No1 and then see the valves, but just seem to show the engine turned over a couple of times?

Low/no Compression In The Cylinders 2 And 3
#61
Posted 02 November 2015 - 10:36 AM
#62
Posted 02 November 2015 - 10:50 AM
Has this engine been removed again from the car after doing the initial problems starting and doing the compression test ? no distributor in it now ? This is just me thinking aloud, but I'd not bother fitting that unit without stripping it all down and going through it. Was running by the seller could mean a thousand different meanings of running, sorry to be so negative but it just looks that way to me, and will save a lot of grief.
There are so few just drop in running engines without doing anything anymore, unless its a 998 where its done very few miles and been swapped for a 1275.
#63
Posted 02 November 2015 - 11:40 AM
Video now working, so i have watched that video about 20 times, and from what i can gather, it looks good, cant tell you if ignition timing is correct, or if cam timing is spot on, but it looks to me that that valves are doing what they should?
Bear in mind that Cylinder #1 is on the right hand side of the video, the firing order is 1-3-4-2, and bearing in mind that from left to right of the video the valves are
Ex-In-In-Ex-Ex-In-In-Ex
With my limited knowledge it looks like everything is happening in roughly the correct order?!
#64
Posted 02 November 2015 - 12:52 PM
I watched the video a few times and am having trouble following what is going on. I do appreciate the effort.
If it would not be too much trouble....
Could you make a video like Kernow requested where you show the engine being turned to #1 TDC, then #3 TDC, #4 TDC, and finally #2 TDC? I would like to see the direction the crank is being turned and a bit of narration saying which piston is "up". The current video is a bit too much to figure out with the video bouncing and no narration.
#65
Posted 02 November 2015 - 05:38 PM
you can follow the exhaust valves & the order (if engine turned the right way) is 1 3 4 2
I would check the valve lash / gap's again , not hard to get a few wrong
with the compression being low - I wonder if a valve is sticking a bit , only takes a bit & compression can be totally lost
#66
Posted 04 November 2015 - 11:39 PM
Sorry it's been a few days, I have been that absorbed in looking for parts and stripping the engine down in what little spare time I have I haven't had chance to check the forum.
#67
Posted 05 November 2015 - 12:22 AM
Find another engine - that one sounds like a money pit
sadly it sounds like you have been conned
take the hit & move on
there are good engines out there
#68
Posted 05 November 2015 - 12:42 AM
#69
Posted 05 November 2015 - 08:28 AM
I'd love to take the hit and move on but I can't afford to.
#70
Posted 07 November 2015 - 05:57 PM
so worn can, followers, knackered rings and even gudgeon pins yet it doesn't need a rebore...that's a miracle to say the least.
i've got a fiver that says if you get it measured it will need boring
#71
Posted 08 November 2015 - 10:56 PM
I had it measured, it didn't however I've decided to go that option as it was actually cheaper when i priced up the rings and gudgeon pins :)
#72
Posted 09 November 2015 - 10:14 PM
so it was cheaper to have a rebore, buy pistons that include rings and pins than just buy piston rings and pins??
my head is starting to hurt
#73
Posted 10 November 2015 - 03:24 PM
Yeah, everywhere i went and looked, including 3 parts stores and minispares the rings alone were going to be £160+vat then gudgeon pins were going to be more then that. however i have had the engine rebored with new +40 pistons for £250 at a local machine shop that mainly does A-series engines.
#74
Posted 10 November 2015 - 03:52 PM
piston ring set = 45-50 quid on minispares.
#75
Posted 10 November 2015 - 04:54 PM
Even a ring set for Omega's is less than £60 ...
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