25 replies to this topic

[Tomm]

I had a similar problem recently, my suggestions would be the following.

A way to check your Earth on the engine block is to attach a jumper cable from the engine, a good bracket will do the job, and connect that to the earth of the battery, if your cable does not reach then an area of suitable body work. If you crank and it starts no problem then your problem will be in a faulty earth.

Do you have a local battery specialist? If so take your battery into them and get them to test it, just because it shows 12v on a tester does not mean it is fit for purpose, you may have a drop in cranking amperage, and they should be able to load test and drop test it for you. This will either highlight or eliminate this as a fault.

As strange as this suggestion may sound, I've had it before when the starter relay has an intermittent fault. Somewhere in the wiring has become damaged and the damaged wire is not providing the starter relay with a solid 12v feed when the ignition is turned. There are ways to bypass this but to be honest I doubt that is your problem.

You should be able to test resistance through your starter solenoid. The last one I checked (not mini) was around 4 ohms I think. Alternatively find a starter motor specialist. I have a cracking guy near me who retfurbishes them for peanuts in comparison to a new motor.

Personally I think your problems may be battery related, hopefully so because that's the cheapest option.

EDIT -

The way that you are getting no dash lights at times for me suggests the starter motor is not the problem in this instance but your power source is. Faulty starter or not your ignition lights should come on every time, the only cause for no lights, like I say, is because your power source is not capable.

Edited by tomm, 12 November 2015 - 10:29 AM.

[Yoda]

Cut in here i shall!

 

If earths and voltage drops checked have been, the ignition switch and its connection plug suspect i would. Dash lights not coming on  looking at here i would be.

[black olive]

brown wire on the spade terminal on the starter solenoid. bad connection on the spade to tag

[David128]

That makes sense

[AustinLeonardAutomotive]

I removed and cleaned the connections on the solenoid and starter so Id assume they are making good contact.  All the times Ive tried recently the dash lights come on.  Ill try the jumper cable/grounding idea when I get home.  I used a multimeter and both the solenoid and starter seem to be getting full power.  Ill also be getting my battery checked soon.  Thanks for the help!  Much appreciated.  

 

-Austin

[black olive]

mine was giving a good reading with a high impedance multimeter- till I turned the ignition key. the connection was high resistance. I cleaned everything up and tightened the spade connection up with a pair of needle nose pliers and the problem hasnt reappeared since, touch wood. verdigris/loose spades on the fusebox can give rise to similar symptoms. good old Joe Lucas, prince of darkness !

[AustinLeonardAutomotive]

Update/more info.  I tried making a ground with jumper cables with no luck.  Still just getting dash lights and solenoid click.  I turned my headlights on and they BARELY dimmed when I tried to start it.  Also forgot to mention that my radio no longer turns on.  This is disappointing...  I think I'm starting to have driving withdrawals! 

 

-Austin

[Tomm]

I'm putting my money on a duff battery. Have you had chance to get it tested?

[AustinLeonardAutomotive]

I'm putting my money on a duff battery. Have you had chance to get it tested?

Im getting it tested today after school. I hopr thats the problem cause its the easiest and the cheapest!

-Austin

[WiredbyWilson]

If the battery is duff then the lights in the dash would dim when you try to start it. the fact they don't suggests the starter isn't pulling any power.

 

If the starter clicks - then its being told to do something, which contradicts the above - so we need to eliminate certain things:

 

1. Are all the terminals on the starter clean, tight and good?

2. Are the earths clean tight and present? (seems you have one missing in the engine bay).

3. Are the terminals on the battery clean and tight?

 

After checking all of that try the following with a circuit tester:

Do you get power on the brown/red on the starter spade terminal when the key is held in the "start" position?

 

 

Is there a starter relay fitted to your car - usually located on the triangle section, drivers side - small square box (could be black, yellow or silver)? It should have a plastic plug under it with a brown, brown/red, white/red and black wire coming out of the bottom - often this is overlooked when starting issues develop.

 

The relay should have the following power:

Brown - Permanent live (thick cable)

Black - Earth/Ground

Brown/Red - to starter and only live when key held in "start position (thick cable)

White/Red - from ignition switch and only live when key held in "start" position

 

Let us know the results and we can move onto other things if needs be.

 

David

[AustinLeonardAutomotive]

So I got the battery tested and its still good.  I've cleaned all the connections and terminals and still just clicky clicky.  I even made up an extra ground using jumper cables.  Wilson, Im having trouble locating the relay you mentioned.  Are you talking about the starter solenoid?  Thanks for the help.

 

-Austin