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Dutch Courage Required For A Stage 1 Install?

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#1 chris29

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 12:18 PM

Hi there,

 

So my 98 Mpi has been a bit rejected the last 9 months (needed some welding and I couldn't face doing it) anyway it went down to the workshop 2 months ago and came out with a lovely new floor. :proud:

 

Since coming back the manifold has been blowing (at least I think it is) - lots of noise and pops on deceleration, generally is a lot louder than it ever was and drops in power. This week it has gotten a lot worse and is now cutting out at low revs.

 

So I thought rather than just replace the gasket I could go all out and get the stage 1 kit done. Just had a quote from minisport for their stage 1 kit but with a lcb manifold and a centre exit single box 1.75" maniflow.

 

Thing is I'm a bit nervous at attempting it.

 

So far I have changed the front disks and pads, starter motor, stuck some 10" minilites on and generally done some other bits and bobs...

 

This seems a bit of a step up.

 

Can I take 2 days off work and be confident I'll get it done by myself?

I've got ramps which should make it easier. Also I currently have a side exit, will I need to get a centre exit mounting welded on? Or can I just drill a mounting into the rear subframe? O_O

Thanks for any help TMF!!

Chris

 


Edited by chris29, 03 November 2015 - 12:20 PM.


#2 Steve220

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 12:24 PM

The centre mount is a drill and bolt on job if they've supplied all the right fittings. To be honest, 2 days will be fine. Stage one kits you can fit in about an hour with the right tools.

Did they do the welding with the ECU plugged in? This CAN cause it to go a bit funny due to the high electrical shock provided by the welding equipment. Also if there is an air leak it can cause the idle to drop so check everything was plugged back in after the floor went on.

#3 chris29

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 12:31 PM

Oh great that's a bit off my mind.

 

No idea, should I literally go and make sure all the wiring is plugged back in properly? I only thought it was the manifold because it was getting progressively worse.
I take it there's no way to check if the ECU has gone a bit funny without a laptop?
 



#4 lawrie124

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 12:57 PM

as aove, fitting the stage 1 kit is pretty straightforward.

 

However (spoilsport mode ON) if it was me I would sort out the problem you currently have before adding more potential issues.

 

just my two penneth ....



#5 Wim Fournier

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 01:00 PM

I'm from Holland, so may be quite 'Dutch'. But I think you can do the job, reading what you did already. With the ramp it is much easier to get underneath and have room enough to wrench. So, get on. When you take two days off before or after the weekend, you have time enough.



#6 spiguy

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 01:31 PM

Based on what you have already done on the car, I agree that you should have no real difficulties doing the work. However I do also agree that you should try to get the car back to running properly as it is before making the changes. That way you will know that the car was running right, and should continue to run right after your upgrade.

 

Of course if you find a broken part which you are confident is the cause, and it is a part which will be replaced during the upgrade, then that should be fine - no need to replace it and then replace it again when upgrading, if that makes any sense!

 

I wouldn't have thought a blowing exhaust should cause such serious issues, maybe if the blow was at the manifold and was bad enough to mean that the O2 sensor wasn't seeing the exhaust gas correctly, but even then I would be surprised if that made it cut out. Sounds more like an issue with a vacuum line or something else. Hopefully not an ECU fault, though as said above if the welding was done without disconnecting the ECU then that is a risk.



#7 chris29

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 01:46 PM

Ok thanks all for the advice.

Can you give me a way to diagnose whether it is an issue with the vacuum line or ECU?

Not sure where to go to fix the current issues if it's not the manifold.



#8 FlyingScot

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 02:01 PM

Check for air leaks by carefully spraying a little WD 40 around the manifold or other suspect areas and see if the revs rise.
Look for wiring breaks especially near the bulkhead where there are some pinch points.
I think spiguy is confusing the vacuum lines issue with single point injection, your is an MPi ?
Is there someone with a diagnostic code reader near you that you could borrow? (There's a thread where people offer to help with this)

FS

Edited by FlyingScot, 03 November 2015 - 02:02 PM.
Spelling - as ever!


#9 chris29

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 02:22 PM

Hi FS,

 

Thanks that's a job for the weekend then!

 

Yes it is an MPi. No that I know of, but the garage I took it to is a mini specialist so I'm sure they'd be willing to check if it could have been their welding that caused the issue.

 

Thanks again, will post an update on the weekend once I've had my head under the bonnet.



#10 Mini ManannĂ¡n

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 06:30 PM

Get the manifold air-tight before you go anywhere.  An air leak can cause all kinds of strange things to happen. 



#11 fenghuang

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 07:07 PM

Having not done the job before, and with axle stands rather than ramps (which weren't as high) with a bit of time added in for some head scratching, I think I fitted a Stage 1 Kit to my carb'ed 998 in about 3hrs. The bit that took the time was getting the manifolds in and out from behind the engine.

(I also neglected to seal the joints of the exhause so had to refit the pipes.)



#12 chris29

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 11:01 AM

Thank MM I'm going to look at the manifold this weekend.

 

Thanks Fenghuang, could you explain what you mean by seal the joints of the exhaust?



#13 Will16

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 12:17 PM

Thank MM I'm going to look at the manifold this weekend.
 
Thanks Fenghuang, could you explain what you mean by seal the joints of the exhaust?


I think Fenghuang is talking about the exhaust sections. It comes in three parts; The LCB, The Link pipe and the rear bit (with silencer). You need to use exhaust assembly paste around where the joints go in to each other so you don't get leaks :-)

#14 chris29

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 01:49 PM

 

Thank MM I'm going to look at the manifold this weekend.
 
Thanks Fenghuang, could you explain what you mean by seal the joints of the exhaust?


I think Fenghuang is talking about the exhaust sections. It comes in three parts; The LCB, The Link pipe and the rear bit (with silencer). You need to use exhaust assembly paste around where the joints go in to each other so you don't get leaks :-)

 

 

Thanks Will!



#15 fenghuang

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 03:46 PM

Exactly what I meant. :-)





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